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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

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  1. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Well-Known Member

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    You talk about paying rental for retail tailor shops. Tailor Baotou charge tailor shops about HK$2k workmanship for a full canvas suit. Tailor Baotou charge walk-in customers in Mirador HK$2.xk workmanship for a full canvas suit. Same product! Tailor Baotou do the measurement, cutting, and fitting.

    The difference is service and location! Picking the right fabric is not easy for people without much experiences. My very last time visited tailor shop years ago, the boss showed me a suit fabric called "Patek Philippe" brand. The boss said "Patek Philippe" is world class, I ran away of course. I don't trust tailor shops anymore, they have to sell fabrics at high price with very low cost to make money to pay their rental. What is customer to tailor shops?

    170#
    BEST VALUE TAILOR IN HONG KONG

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/68785/best-value-tailor-in-hong-kong/165
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2016
  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    I agree all fabrics can be tailored without interfusing, but some of the lightweight, fragile stuff will look like shit if you don't properly press them now and then.

    I am talking about those tropical wieght super wools where it is hard to give/take shape but the most optimum to wear in deep Summer.

    I now mostly wears these fragile and lightweight stuff to balance the usual heat, I don't have the luxury of someone who can press my coat every two wears, therefore everytime I have something new made I will ask Hui whether they are suitable for interfusing.

    Sorry for the folks who was misinterpreted by Hui, I suppose besides making a one-sided claim here, it is far better to put this upfront with Hui and asked for redemption.
     
  3. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    Most if not all my suit for this twenty years are CMT, I don't think my tailors were "unhappy."
    It is fair deal, you can accept CMT or not, like Chan, they don't do CMT anymore.
     
  4. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    I have Scatex suit, i agree it is better to add fuse.
     
  5. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    Is it what you want to proof yourself that you are very smart ? People go to tailor shops are stupid.

    Why non-stop repeat and repeat again? People get annoyed .
     
  6. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    I mean tailor shops favour non-cmt than cmt .

    Obviously , if they are unhappy , they will not accept .
     
  7. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    Please teach me . Is it adding fusing will add weight to the fabric , reduce air pass through which make you wear hotter ? In such case why not select a porus light weight fabric such as 260 gm without any fusing ?
     
  8. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    Good question, I also has same doubt.

    I think people should avoid using those "lightweight, fragile stuff" rather than using fusing.
    I remember I wore those old LP Summer Tasmanian 100s & 120's in summer, and they performed well.
     
  9. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    Since GT is rated on par with AMHC , have you ever known AMHC using fusing too ?
     
  10. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    Not on my suits and sportcoats.
    And not on anything I saw on the hangers in the shop.
     
  11. hippotamus

    hippotamus Well-Known Member

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    Not sure who rate GT on par with AMHC, but I have to disagree on this statement.

    Also, no fabric should need that light / skin fusing, it is basically "less craftsmanship" as mentioned which I agree.
    Yes, it will take more time with that nature of fabric, but it doesn't seems to be an excuse for fusing it.

    I am not sure how this Chinese Cloth leads to CMT fuss, but the gentleman got the impression of British cloth, could be miscommunication, lets keep it that way.
     
  12. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for your sharing .
    Maybe i am wrong because lack of knowledge . Forgive me to say , i think AMHC is a step above GT.
     
  13. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    I have two suits in 6.5-7oz, that should be around 220g, J & J Minnis Airborne.
    One by Gordon Yao, and one by Baromon, both of them are unfused.
    Of course they don't performed as well as those heavier cloth, but they look acceptable.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2016
  14. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    Here is the GY suit

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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  16. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    As i know , Chan is still doing a Dugdale 2 pc promotion around $9500 with 2 fittings , worth a try .
     
  17. IsABellyDad

    IsABellyDad Active Member

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    I doubt this statement.

    I don't know the internal cost structure of a tailor, but I would guess the very simplified scenario would be:
    Price for doing a suit = cost of labour + profit on labour + cost of cloth that the tailor needs to pay the supplier + profit made by the tailor as retailer for the cloth
    Price for CMT = cost of labour (same) + profit on labour (same) + profit set by the tailor to recover some "lost" for not being the cloth retailer

    If I do CMT often (say, once every quarter), I think the tailor will treasure me more than someone who just make a suit (not CMT) once every year - at least in terms of profit contribution.

    Indeed, I also doubt whether not doing CMT will make the tailor "happy, treasure you and put heart to make a good suit". It seems that tailors (in HK at least) put more attention (well, not "heart") when the customer is more "knowledgeable" / "demanding" - and tailors will try to minimize the effort (for more adjustments to make a better fit, for details in the craftmanship, etc.) if the customer cannot tell. This is understandable but clearly not desirable - and I think this partly contributes to the downward spiral of the tailor industry in HK.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    @IsABellyDad , tailor shops usually charge much more for high end fabric . However , their price difference is several times of fabric price difference. The profit margin on a good fabric suit is much more than normal fabric . For example , Chan price for a 2 pc Lumbs is hk$27,xxx while Dugdale is 9,5xx. The price difference for 4 yd of fabric cannot be hk$18,xxx.

    Tailors usually have one price of cmt. Ascot Chang maybe the smartest , 2 price of cmt for each shirt. Over 140's is hk$1500 , under is $1200
     
  19. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    Sometimes I am thinking, are those "tailor shop" real tailor shop? or they are "woollen merchant"?
     
  20. beowolf

    beowolf Well-Known Member

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    Does Grand Tailor also have an office in New York?
     

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