1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

Tags:
  1. Penfold

    Penfold Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    241
    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2014
    Location:
    London
    Chan only provide one sleeve at fitting because they take an arm and a leg at payment time! But the service is great, the store very refined, and the location ideal for busy bankers, lawyers and so on. Plus they really do cut and keep the paper patterns.
     
  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    

    Lol dressing gets pretty much the same when I have to walk around outdoor with fully packed attache in the HK summer heat. Plus I really need a dark grey suit which Car does not seems to have any good candidate in store at the moment.
     
  3. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,953
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2013
    Location:
    London
    Shirt jacket from Moda. Going to get it in a muted safariesque color in linen next time, kinda like it though.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,443
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    

    Good morning; no' your GF's photography is fine and a few photographs showing Chan's work would be good, fit of the trousers front and rear and the full inside of the coat especially.

    Surprised you say that of Gordon Yao. I had him make me another two suits when I was in HK earlier in the year and there was certainly no difference to those he has made for me over the last 18 years or so. I recognised his tailor when he came over to look at the fittings and Peter Pak was still in his shop.

    I must ask him when I see him.
     
  5. deshoopy

    deshoopy Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2015
    Hey guys, sorry if this is the wrong place to post this, but do you guys think Jantzen did alright with this shirt? It's my first tailored shirt so I have no idea what to expect. Are the arms wrinkly simply because I haven't ironed it? Is it also supposed to be that 'puffy'? Or is it supposed to be slimmer? When I wind up my arm to write stuff, the cloth seems to just about stick to the outline of my arms, so I think it's a decent fit right? Also, do you guys think the sleeves are the right length? Some have commented it may be a bit too short.

    Is there any need go back to Jantzen for any alterations?


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2015
  6. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    574
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2012
    Location:
    Luxembourg
    As always with replicating tailors, it's all about explaining them in great details what you want exactly and being behind them when they deliver to ensure they followed each and every instruction. Time consuming to "train" them but once it's done, you get that. The construction quality is totally decent for that price point. I've got nothing bad to say about it.

    Most buttonholes were machine made and not really nice to be honest. Typical industrial work. For the lapel buttonhole, I gave it to a seamstress in Paris for her to make it by hand properly.



    Honestly, the fabric was sourced on Ebay. I buy a lot there and IIRC it was approx. 140 EUR shipping included for that fabric.
    Then again, you'd have to add 25€ for the handmade buttonhole made in Paris.

    So in total, we're around 500€ for that jacket. It's a wool linen silk blend.
     
  7. cchen

    cchen Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,534
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Location:
    NYC / HK / London
    @SeamasterLux was the fabric branded? i see lots of vendors selling cut lengths, both branded and unbranded, and am wary of fakes or bad quality
     
  8. Gatsbyu

    Gatsbyu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    108
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    

    I went to that tailor shop on sun, so sad that it was close. Will definitely visit again this week.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2015
  9. hippotamus

    hippotamus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    161
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2014
    Um....in that threat the fit pic looks quiet bad...
    maybe the customer request, but dont see any 'modern cut"...

    *but agree with WWChan as being able to do the more modern cut (or any cuts, just see some of the stuff they made over the weekend)
     
  10. hippotamus

    hippotamus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    161
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2014
    The WWChan report looks great ! When you were there, do you feel there are actually a 'house-cut" for them ?

    Looking forward for the trier sample too ! Interested in this new line, spreading out from Lai sifu, which looks to be another great value.
     
  11. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    574
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2012
    Location:
    Luxembourg
    It wasn't but I'm mostly buying from two very serious sellers!
     
  12. Gatsbyu

    Gatsbyu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    108
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    

    Just quick glance, agree that some of them do have fit problems. Since the master cutter is in HK and they do fitting in US. I think they didn't do a good job in fitting stage.

    For modern cutting (non-shanghai old fashion cut), it is different from old cut like, 1) the chest line is based on some formula to distribute among different parts instead of non-sense grading . 2) the seam of front seam are partially offset by seam of under seam. 3) the roll line is displaced forward. Modern cut basically means more rational
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2015
  13. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    WW Chan definitely has a house cut. They can tweet bits and bobs but It wont bea full blown full volume drape cut, which I had been so used to for a long time.
     
  14. hippotamus

    hippotamus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    161
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2014
    Interesting, so in HK, do you find any tailor / shop that can fit your likes of drape cut ?

    Or did you need to "train" a tailor to cut your likes (as @seamaster has done to NK tailor for his French style)

    From my understanding....WWChan is really not cheap....AT ALL...why the experiment ???? (I heard their trouser is on par with Ambrosi... in term of price)
     
  15. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    

    I found overall Grand Tailor made the best old London Drape cut for me. I have spent a lot of time with Lai to get what I want so far. I just think Lai's make is different and perhaps more old Shanghai with the overall softer construction. Grand Tailor's coat in any kind of cloth feels stiffer (either with or without the black interlining).

    WW Chan actually has been better priced recently with the additional fabric choices. Price is not too bad.

    Also it gets really bored to have just one tailor making you everything all.
     
  16. hippotamus

    hippotamus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    161
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2014
    Grant Tailor, seems doesnt get much exposed here....are they similar structure as Mr. Lai tailor shop ?

    Interesting you talked about fabric choice, in terms of suiting, is there any fabric that one cannot get but only the tailor shop can do ?
    (I know for shirting that AC has some exclusive deal) and sure if the tailor's mark up on fabric is not that bad it is sure better to get via them to save the trouble and time.

    Just saw your old post about the "Ambrosi style" from local master, interesting, wonder if they still offers it.

    I know you pursue the more structure and hard British look, but do you have any chance to know where one can get for the soft Italian look ?
     
  17. baromatic

    baromatic Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    70
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2015
    Just speaking about soft Italian look with a friend and although it doesn't suit me all the time, WW Chan has made me a shirtsleeve shoulder that is lovely from an 8oz fabric.
    As for local Ambrosi style, its available but not a "money maker" for tailors as you would think. Why not try Armoury for RTW ambrosi before a commission?
    -
    An example of your question on tailors that offer fabrics you cannot get is Loro Piana. This summer offerings are available to top tier shops only. Even local distributors don't carry these seasonals.
     
  18. takashi78

    takashi78 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    175
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2012
    Does a RTW Ambrossi exist?
     
  19. hippotamus

    hippotamus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    161
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2014
    Thanks for the advise !

    I looked up the online store, no sign of Ambrosi, would I find that in the HK store?
    http://shop.thearmoury.com/categories/trousers?limit=all&mode=grid
     
  20. baromatic

    baromatic Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    70
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2015

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by