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The difference.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tlexmark, Jul 11, 2002.

  1. tlexmark

    tlexmark Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2002
    Location:
    Southern California
    Okay, I can understand the difference between bad patterns and good patterns of shirts to ties, the way pleats look bad on some men but good on others...

    ...but how in the hell can you possibly tell if a suit is made by Armani or Gucci? Or Zegna or D&G? What is it about a suit that can possibly distinguish it from a higher-end designer, if your'e just looking at a picture, or a movie, or whatever? Is there some kind of suddle colour difference or the amount of buttons or the length of the lapels or some other trivial part of the suit that can realy make it sick out? Aside from the whle Peaked/Notched lapels and the tailoring, I've never been able to tell if a suit has been made by one or another designer. What do you guys see that immediately screams "Armani." or "Prada."?

    Just a cry for help. Because I need some.

    Thanks,
    t
     
  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

    Messages:
    33,236
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    Styles vary from season to season, but often designers have a distinctive cut or palette that makes them stand out.

    For example, Zegna suits tend to have a relatively boxy cut and wider lapels, while Prada suits have rather narrow shoulders and a high gorge. Lately, Prada suits have had fairly wide lapels. On the other hand, Armani suits tend to have narrower lapels, and a fairly relaxed silhouette, the famous "deconstructed" jacket shape. The Neapolitan cut of super-lux brand Kiton has a slender, fitted silhouette, accomplished partially but the higher placement of the armholes and a sharper angle at the shoulder. Hedi Slimane suits are distinctive for their verticality, accentuated by slim lapels and elongated shape. (Sorry, a poor description of one of the best suit designs I've ever come across.) One terrific Dior jacket I saw this season made the American single-vented jacket cooler than I ever thought possible.

    Armani is famous for his "greige" non-colour, Paul Smith for his whimsical details and constrasting stitching

    Materials are also important. Prada suits in the early 90s could often be distinguished by their distinctive stretch material.

    It is difficult to determine who made what suit unless you follow the lines closely season after season. Most people, if they have any discernible taste, can usually tell if the suit is a good suit or not, and generally have a feeling about the style of the suit, whether it has a modern or traditional feel, etc... It's like fine wine. The fine details are generally lost on the general public, but the general idea is conveyed.
     
  3. LabelKing

    LabelKing Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    As Steve B pointed out, the most important aspect is fabric, and also the cuts. Also the number of buttons on the sleeve makes a differnce also, as Brooks Brothers has only 3, while Hickey Freeman has 4.
     
  4. LabelKing

    LabelKing Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    Sorry, I made a mistake. Not Steve B. but LA Guy.
     

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