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The Constructive Criticism Thread (15 Thumb Minimum)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Nov 30, 2015.

  1. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    There’s much interesting discussion about stripes in the Good Taste thread; predictably, given the purpose of that thread, the consensus there is pretty conservative. So far as suiting fabrics are concerned, universally approved patterns are pin stripes on worsted and chalk stripes on woolens and in both cases these should not be too close together. Beyond that opinions tend to diverge.

    Personally I’m a touch more open to multi-, complex, shadow, and other non-simple stripes in shirting fabrics, but even there I don’t like them too obvious so I tend to stick to monochromatic ones. I’ve got a couple of T & A shirts like that, but it’s admittedly a look more common in the UK than elsewhere.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    All very interesting and thank you for the feedback. I still like this suit; the fabric speaks to me for some odd reason.

    Even more odd is the fact that less than a week later, i bought an almost identical suit for three times the price. However, that one is Brunello Cucinelli and really nice, including the fabric.

    Methinks brown suits are G-d's way of telling you that you're making too much money.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    But I love brown suits!
     
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    @Chulillo
    [​IMG]
    It's common knowledge that I am a big fan of blue jackets and gray pants, but there are objective(ish) and subjective issues with this outfit. Objectivish stuff: the collar points look like they are well outside the vest and the sleeves look half an inch too long. Subjective: I think that's a pretty formal vest and the fabric on that jacket is most certainly informal. The outfit has a hodgepodge quality to it, with the vest and pants being both gray but from difference outfits. One thing to consider going forward is the cut of your pants compared to the cut of your jackets. You like your jackets very tight, but your pants generally are comfortable and loose looking. I know that with pants I have like that, I generally wear them with my more loose fitting, comfortable jackets (or cardigans). And slimmer pants I'll not wear with jackets with a more generous cut. Anyway, 28 people liked it, which is great, but it didn't do it for me for those reasons.

    @sugarbutch
    [​IMG]

    There are those who will say that tie is not casual enough for that jacket. I'm not sure if I am one of them. Butchy, thoughts?

    @Braddock
    [​IMG]
    That tie belongs with a rough suit or jacket, not something smooth and city.


    @DonCologne
    [​IMG]
    Colors are spot on, but I think the multicolored flowers of the tie are too spring/summer for the jacket.
     
  5. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    @Chulillo 's shirt sleeves are not too long; it's the jacket sleeves that are way too short.

    Other than that, pretty spot-on analysis @Claghorn . @sugarbutch 's tie definitely belongs with a worsted suit.

    Mind you, these are all pretty good fits despite the nitpicks.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    I don't see spotted ties like this as particularly formal. Even in hindsight, I'm okay with this combo. The jacket is a worsted check, not a tweed FWIW.
     
  7. calypso

    calypso Well-Known Member

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    don't know if i thumbed or not but i really like sugarbutchs outfit.
     
  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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  9. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Well-Known Member

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  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Going to give this thread another go

    @Marc Voorhees
    [​IMG]

    The jacket fits well and the suit is definitely a keeper. But the colors are a little lackluster (though I've seen similar color combinations managed to have a stronger effect, so I don't know why this isn't doing it for me here), and double breasted suits (formal) and loafers (very casual) are an odd pairing.

    @heldentenor
    [​IMG]
    It took me a bit to figure out what it is about this outfit that didn't quite work for me. In the end, I think it might be that the tie and the square are a bit too vibrant for the jacket. A subdued jacket can probably take one vibrant piece, but two takes contrast to discordant.

    @Andy57
    [​IMG]
    With the addition of the sweater, there is one too many warm elements. Had the bowtie been blue or green, I think I'd've liked it more. Or if the sweater had been a cooler color.

    @Anden
    [​IMG]
    I really like this outfit, and I think brown shoes can work with a black tie. But I wish the shoes were a bit darker.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    Glad to see new life injected into this thread. I've found that square, which I initially thought to be the king of versatility, harder to wear than I'd have thought--it's bright and saturated despite the wool/silk blend.

    The disproportionally puny button-down collar isn't helping my case in that one, either.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2016
  12. colHolm

    colHolm Well-Known Member

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    I hope it's not unreasonable to bring this thread back from the dead, selfishly seeking my own betterment... I'll link to a couple of fits I've posted in the last couple weeks with my own criticisms, and I'd appreciate anyone else providing some.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/394373/...-part-iv-starting-may-2014/44235#post_8684911
    [​IMG]

    This one received 18 thumbs.

    My criticisms: Obviously a crappy iPhone pic, indoors with little natural light. The jacket sleeves are too long. Shirt could maybe have been a little darker blue, or maybe more saturated? Camel flannels were too obvious a choice with the tie, making it seem a bit too matchy or too coordinated. The tie has a cream base with an olive/brown and navy sheppards check, which to me kinda makes the whole outfit seem beige and blue. Perhaps the safety of a white linen tv fold was too simplistic, maybe a missed opportunity? I second guess myself often with pocket squares, which lead me to seek some feedback in GNAT. Thanks to those that made suggestions, I'll likely be placing an order soon.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/394373/...-part-iv-starting-may-2014/43755#post_8664441
    [​IMG]

    This one received 15 thumbs.

    My Criticisms: Again, crappy iPhone pic, indoors, no natural light. Shirt sleeves are a bit long (actually the shirt is too big all over since losing weight). I don't like how I stuffed the square. I think that choosing the white square necessitated a tv fold in this fit. I thought about adding a new colour element with the square, but couldn't settle on one in my closet that didn't look out of place. I think the fit of the jacket itself is pretty good, and I really enjoy the texture of this suit seen in the up close shot. This tie is gorgeous. Knots well, great hand and drape.


    http://www.styleforum.net/t/394373/...-part-iv-starting-may-2014/43635#post_8657320
    [​IMG]

    This one received 11 thumbs.

    My Criticisms: Decent lighting, but it looks like my pants are too long (they are a bit... also the pants were probably riding a bit low (this was the first suit I had altered during my weight loss). Shirt is also on the larger size, so you can see it bunching up a bit between the tie and lapels. Overall, nothing really daring or even that interesting about this photo. As I've typed this, I think maybe I've answered my own question.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/394373/...-part-iv-starting-may-2014/43980#post_8674663
    [​IMG]

    This one also received 11 thumbs.

    My Criticisms: On the full length pic, something weird is happening with my pants; the hem caught on my laces and twisted the pant leg, causing some bunching behind my right thigh. Socks are too loud, shoes are shitty cheap units. I thought I did well with the tie/square pairing on the grey suit. I think this fit would have been improved by the use of a solid blue shirt, instead of the checks I chose, though I'm not totally sold on this?

    Thanks!
     
  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    #1: I liked this the first time around. Jacket sleeves are a bit long, but the combination is tasteful and the textures are nice. With nicer photography, I suspect more thumbs would have been given. Shirt definitely does not need to be darker.

    #2: Weird angle, bad light. Hard to overcome

    #3: Can't really see much

    #4: Suit's cut is kinda meh, it's wrinkled, and the fit is indifferent (at least as pictured). Socks are too vibrant for the rest of the outfit.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  14. Marsay

    Marsay Well-Known Member

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    Thread worth resurrecting. I'll think of a few when I have time.

    @colHolm I already commented on #4. #1 is immaculate.

    @heldentenor There might be an alternative explanation: with the lightish gray odd trousers you had a second area of high contrast around your waistline; the high contrast tie and PS might have been fine if you hadn't repeated the same effect lower down.
     
  15. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    The correct response to all of these is "Bad photography".
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. colHolm

    colHolm Well-Known Member

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    Yes, if the question is how to get more thumbs. I posted in the hopes of getting feedback to improve... Whether it be fit, mixing formality, texture, colour, etc. But also internet points.


    Thanks SB. I think the last one, the jacket fits ok (wrinkles not withstanding), but the pants are an issue. They catch on my shoes because they are too long, but I think they are actually a bit tight in the thigh (extra wrinkles), and maybe in the calf? They catch on certain pairs of socks.


    You did, and I appreciate the feedback.

    I'm hoping for a tripod and remote for Christmas, which should help in the photography department. Daylight may be an issue... At this time of year it doesn't get light until almost 9, and is dark by 4:30. I'm not sure I'm ready to bring a camera rig to work to take pics haha.
     
  17. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    I think that's good analysis. Some Oxford greys or mid-brown trousers would have kept the highlights in check.

    @colHolm all four of those fits seem solid to me. Butch is right that light grey suits whose sheen is magnified by indoor lighting highlight every possible imperfection in fit and condition.

    The first three really are photography issues, if you ask me. I don't love khaki with navy (think it goes better with light blue, green, or brown linen), but it's not a fail, and the other two are strong, classic combinations. They're also easy to look past as a result, but dressing for thumbs here doesn't always equate to dressing to be well turned out in daily life.

    My biggest concrete suggestion is pic #2, where I think that tie is considerably better with a light blue shirt than it is with what appears to be a white one. If that's the photography again, no worries.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  18. colHolm

    colHolm Well-Known Member

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    Thanks heldentenor. I think I agree with you re: khaki coloured pants with navy jacket. Maybe that's what was bugging me about the fit.

    #2 was with a light grey pencil stripe shirt, maybe better seen here:
    [​IMG]
    The tie is a warm grey irl, with kind of a beige cast to the base colour. For some reason it seemed off with a light blue shirt, but I'll revisit the next time I wear it.

    Thanks for chiming in!
     

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