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The center vented suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Nov 8, 2004.

  1. pejsek

    pejsek Well-Known Member

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    The center vent will once again see its day. I think much of the anti-cv sentiment comes from too many years of poorly-tailored American suits with a skimpy cv that served only to make the wearer look ridiculous.
    But the center vent does indeed have a rich and noble heritage, particularly the long and deep English hacking style done up in tweed with generous skirting. I think Timmothy Everest has made some attempts to bring back this style and I'm surprised Ralph Lauren has not revived it in an effort to lead the pack.
    The double vent--long my preference, esp. for a suit--is quickly becoming the norm (Banana Republic, anyone?) and connoisseurs will have to seize on a new detail to set themselves apart. Granted it's not always appropriate for formal wear, but I think people will be surprised to find how elegant a well-executed center vent can be. In the past too many center vents have given the impression that the tailor simply took some scissors and made a slit in the coat.
     
  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    YES. I agree with that last post. My Oxxford, after some nifty tailoring to take in the waist, has a great fit in the lower back and a very elegant skirt. But, in that regard, a badly cut side vent is every bit as bad as a badly cut center vent.
     
  3. BjornH

    BjornH Well-Known Member

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    (BjornH @ 08 Nov. 2004, 11:30) A center vent can be totally appropriate on a tweed jacket with hacking pockets but for anything remotely formal I prefer side vents. Perhaps this is just a fad today like the ticket pocket - I haven't been around long enough watching menswear to tell. B
    The ticket pocket is hardly a fad. It's just popular at the moment in the mainstream clothing segments; but has been always a staple in traditional haberdashery. Jon.
    Perhaps I chose my words badly. I meant just what you described - that both are a fad, in the sense that both have caught the attention of the mainstream. Does anyone care to guess what sartorial detail will be popularized for us next ? B
     
  4. djkovner

    djkovner Well-Known Member

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    What type of profession is this? I can't believe one could get terminated simply for wearing a ventless suit jacket.
     
  5. Drinkwaters

    Drinkwaters Well-Known Member

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    I have been involved in this debate many times in my career of selling clothing. I have on a rare occassion seen a center vent that hangs properly. Most times the vent kicks out to the side and shows more than it should.
    If you follow the genesis of jackets over time, side vented jackets were worn when a gent rode a horse, not center vents.
    I think some of the recent sportswear jackets that have center vents are a way in which to wear that type of clothing, provided their full cut and and don't allow full posterial view.
     
  6. Horace

    Horace Well-Known Member

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    (TomW @ 08 Nov. 2004, 10:14) ... A ventless suit coat was grounds for termination for any employee, as were shirtings not of a single color (read that white or blue) and loud ties.
    What type of profession is this? Â I can't believe one could get terminated simply for wearing a ventless suit jacket.
    Sounds like IBM.
     
  7. TomW

    TomW Well-Known Member

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    Got it in one. Of course, IBM has loosened up over the past two decades, but when I was fresh out of school and began my professional life there, the dress code was a booklet of some 25 pages which spelled out exactly what one could wear and what one could not. Failure to comply once got you a stern lecture and a permanent notation in your personnel record. At the time, being committed to the 'family' was everything - no matter what they asked you did, non-compliance got you the sack in very short order. There were very, very few exceptions.
     
  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Oddly enough, many of my European and British friends prefer center vents to side or no vents when it comes to odd jackets - for them, the center vent is an American, and therefore casual (in the same way that sack suits, polo shirts and Levis are seen as casual) and less uptight than the Brit side or Continental ventless jacket. I have to say that I am coming around to their way of thinking. For a casual cotton (twill, moleskin, or canvas), tweed, or flannel jacket, worn with jeans and a hoodie (or somesuch abomination [​IMG] ), I am beginning to prefer a back vent.
     
  9. mylesmyles

    mylesmyles Well-Known Member

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    I agree that single venting is quite fine - and does have more of an american look. Yes i prefer a double vented suit but being that i sit at a desk all day - it has to be at least single vented. i look around at some of the guys where i work who wear suits with no vents - and you can see the wrinkles - it really does look terrible, epsecially after you have been sitting down a while.
     
  10. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Well-Known Member

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    Ventless for me.  But I can't imagine judging a suit or odd jacket on this basis. (Maybe that's because it's so darned hard to find 43XL of any description.)

    Anyway, I just cart 'em off to Ernesto.  He tacks 'em up for only twenty bucks.

    If ventless was good enough for the '30's toffs, it's more than good enough for me. Just be sure to unbutton when you sit down (and rebutton, of course, when you stand again).  When you need to get to your trouser pocket, pull the jacket straight across just below the bottom button, as Cary Grant and Gary Cooper do in all those Depression Era movies.  (See pp. 38 and 83, Dresssing the Man.)
     
  11. gorgekko

    gorgekko Well-Known Member

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    I thought I was the only person here who preferred ventless coats and sport jackets. I always have the vents sown up.
     
  12. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Well-Known Member

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    I have a flat butt; the skirt looks a little more defined with a center vent.
     
  13. truthhurts

    truthhurts Well-Known Member

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    Don't own any single vent suits because I don't see the point. You can't put your hands in pockets with single vent so why bother with it at all? Double or nothing for me.
     
  14. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Well-Known Member

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    gorgkko-

    We're a small but select group.

    BTW, RE your motto: All credit to Daddy. I couldn't agree with him more.

    But you neglected to add paragraph two: In the long run, as Daddy knew full well, it's only the one percent that really counts.
     
  15. tteplitzmd

    tteplitzmd Active Member

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    I have a number of bespoke jackets with "center hook vent" used by J Press years ago.
     
  16. Stu

    Stu Well-Known Member

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    I'd buy this one in a heartbeat, if I could afford it right now.
     

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