1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. George

    George Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,832
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
    Location:
    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    They are four piston Brembo GTs all around with drilled rotors: [​IMG] AY poo-poos their functional advantages for certain forms of enjoyable club racing, for which he is correct. But, having tracked the car both ways, I am with the conventional wisdom that fixed mount, opposed multi-piston caliper big brakes for the E46 M3 are better than the OEM brakes. I also feel that the GT setup is more balanced front and rear than the OEM brakes, but that is a flavor on which a range of opinion is possible depending on your driving style. But, since I don't track anymore, they are but costly baubles. The fact that calipers are factory-painted to match the interior is also a bit bauble-y. - B
    How do you find the M3? I had one, if they'd have done an estate I'd have got another, especially now, that they've shoe horned a V8 into the bugger. I never used mine for track days though and the car was never modified in anyway.
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    Since Poo and I are the same height, I thought this exercise might be interesting.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    The jackets are actually about the same length with hems and hip outpockets landing in the same plane.

    You can see that his bottom square of buttons is moved down, show buttons separated more. In fact, the convention of lining the bottom buttons to the pocket are ignored, to good effect in his case.

    His shoulders are extended as much as a minimally padded shoulder can be.

    Someone who is detail-oriented might suggest that Poo's jacket is pulling a bit at the waist and hips, but not I. [​IMG]


    - B
     
  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    How do you find the M3? I had one, if they'd have done an estate I'd have got another, especially now, that they've shoe horned a V8 into the bugger.

    I never used mine for track days though and the car was never modified in anyway.


    I love my E46 (prior generation) M3. In fact, I am finding it hard to give it up.

    Replacement is currently a tossup between an Aston Vantage and a Porsche GT3, although I'm leaning to just keeping pat for another year or two.


    - B
     
  4. George

    George Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,832
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
    Location:
    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    Since Poo and I are the same height, I thought this exercise might be interesting. [​IMG][​IMG] The jackets are actually about the same length with hems and hip outpockets landing in the same plane. You can see that his bottom square of buttons is moved down, and that his shoulders are extended. In fact, the convention of lining the bottom buttons to the pocket are ignored, to good effect in his case. Someone who is detail-oriented might suggest that Poo's jacket is pulling a bit at the waist and hips, but not I. [​IMG] - B
    What I've noticed about Rubinacci and Iammatt's in particular is how low the breast pocket is.
     
  5. forex

    forex Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,595
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2008
    Since Poo and I are the same height, I thought this exercise might be interesting.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    The jackets are actually about the same length with hems and hip outpockets landing in the same plane.

    You can see that his bottom square of buttons is moved down, show buttons separated more. In fact, the convention of lining the bottom buttons to the pocket are ignored, to good effect in his case.

    His shoulders are extended as much as a minimally padded shoulder can be.

    Someone who is detail-oriented might suggest that Poo's jacket is pulling a bit at the waist and hips, but not I. [​IMG]


    - B


    I did see that pull,I also think your Steed DB's are nicer than any other Rubinacci DB's on the forum. Can't say the same about SB's though but that maybe due to the fact that I am not a huge fan of Steed SB cuts.
    I am also starting to dislike extended shoulders on Rubinacci numbers,this exercise makes the difference pretty obvious.
     
  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    What I've noticed about Rubinacci and Iammatt's in particular is how low the breast pocket is.

    I think his is lower than the other Rubies...don't know why.

    The boat-shaped welt is dreamy.


    - B
     
  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    I did see that pull,I also think your Steed DB's are nicer than any other Rubinacci DB's on the forum. Can't say the same about SB's though but that maybe due to the fact that I am not a huge fan of Steed SB cuts.
    I am also starting to dislike extended shoulders on Rubinacci numbers,this exercise makes the difference pretty obvious.


    It's a good thing that there are still good tailors left who can produce styles to suit various tastes.

    I'm curious what doesn't work for you on the SB Steed cuts...here's the first good photo that I've taken of one, which I posted earlier:

    [​IMG]

    - B
     
  8. George

    George Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,832
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
    Location:
    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    I love my E46 (prior generation) M3. In fact, I am finding it hard to give it up. Replacement is currently a tossup between an Aston Vantage and a Porsche GT3, although I'm leaning to just keeping pat for another year or two. - B
    V8 or V12 Vantage? I'd take the Aston over the GT3. As great as the Porsche is, it simply doesn't have the road presence of the Aston. England > Germany [​IMG]
     
  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    V8 or V12 Vantage?

    I'd take the Aston over the GT3. As great as the Porsche is, it simply doesn't have the road presence of the Aston.

    England > Germany [​IMG]


    V12 would be nice, but way more money than I want to spend on a daily driver.

    The main practical issue with Astons in the US compared to Porsche is the number good mechanics, with the number hovering around zero for Aston-Martin.

    - B
     
  10. George

    George Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,832
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
    Location:
    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    I think his is lower than the other Rubies...don't know why. The boat-shaped welt is dreamy. - B
    Well, if you look at a pattern the breast pocket height is usually tied up to the depth of the arm scye. Obviously, the pocket height can be put anywhere the tailor or client wants. I wonder if Iammatt has high arm holes. I want to see a picture of him flapping his arms around Icarus style. We need to know the height of those arm holes.
     
  11. forex

    forex Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,595
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2008
    That is a great looking suit,Vox. I can't quite put my finger,I am not liking that it is 3 button and how the quarters close (I feel like quarters are pushing away from you little bit,if you know what I mean)but then all of your Steed SB's are cut in that way.Wait,maybe except for the last windowpane number you received.
     
  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    Well, if you look at a pattern the breast pocket height is usually tied up to the depth of the arm scye. Obviously, the pocket height can be put anywhere the tailor or client wants. I wonder if Iammatt has high arm holes.

    I want to see a picture of him flapping his arms around Icarus style. We need to know the height of those arm holes.


    Hmm. Interesting.

    Tailorgod is going to town on this subject even as we speak.


    - B
     
  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    That is a great looking suit,Vox. I can't quite put my finger,I am not liking that it is 3 button and how the quarters close (I feel like quarters are pushing away from you little bit,if you know what I mean)but then all of your Steed SB's are cut in that way.Wait,maybe except for the last windowpane number you received.

    The last windowpane number, FYI, is back in Cumbria right now. More than the usual adjustments...I'm very excited about the tweaks.

    - B
     
  14. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,384
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    The wild and the pure.
    Since Poo and I are the same height, I thought this exercise might be interesting.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    The jackets are actually about the same length with hems and hip outpockets landing in the same plane.

    You can see that his bottom square of buttons is moved down, show buttons separated more. In fact, the convention of lining the bottom buttons to the pocket are ignored, to good effect in his case.

    His shoulders are extended as much as a minimally padded shoulder can be.

    Someone who is detail-oriented might suggest that Poo's jacket is pulling a bit at the waist and hips, but not I. [​IMG]


    - B

    I think they are simply different expressions of how the male figure ought to look when clothed. The armholes are quite high, fwiw.
     
  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    I think they are simply different expressions of how the male figure ought to look when clothed. The armholes are quite high, fwiw.

    We still need a good robot shot of the Minnis houndstooth that you got. Would love to see that.

    Come on...spice up WAYWRN with that special sauce that only you have.


    - B
     
  16. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    I'm starting to figure this out...

    ...are you about to spring a hitherto unkown middle European horn button carver on all of us?

    [​IMG]


    - B


    surely not.

    you spend a fair amount on your clothes and you write extensive exposures on tailoring details. so why would you want cheap lookin buttons on them, just asking.
     
  17. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    surely not.

    you spend a fair amount on your clothes and you write extensive exposures on tailoring details. so why would you want cheap lookin buttons on them, just asking.


    [​IMG]

    Maybe I also enjoy irritating people on the InterWebs.


    - B
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Those are not cheap buttons. They are expensive (and classy) Weldon horn buttons.
     
  19. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    Those are not cheap buttons. They are expensive (and classy) Weldon horn buttons.

    Do not divulge Goon Member secrets.


    - B
     
  20. A Y

    A Y Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,592
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    you spend a fair amount on your clothes and you write extensive exposures on tailoring details. so why would you want cheap lookin buttons on them, just asking.

    It's part of the charm of the tailoring style and suit. You are also in good company:

    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...613#post898613

    --Andre
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by