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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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  2. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. That cloth is wonderful.
     
  3. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Awesome, I am sure the buttoning area will loosen slightly with wear. No need to touch it.
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    21ounce cloth is difficult to work with. Have written this before, elsewhere. The cloth loses suppleness and this has to be adjusted for to compensate.

    If Slew would submit another picture with the jacket unbuttoned you would see what the issue is.

    Hard to assess from this one picture because I'm not sure Slew is in a natural relaxed posture here.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2013
  6. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Will try, but photos are tough to come by these days with a crazy toddler running around! I was fairly relaxed - as relaxed as one can be for a robot pose. As I mentioned, I'm not worried about anything though.
     
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Interesting perspective. I have heard from people tailors and non tailors that heavier cloth is best to work with, but I guess after a certain weight it carries new issues, which differ from those working with lighter cloth. In your experience is there an "optimal" weight, or does it depend on the type/weave/finish of the fabric?
     
  8. TRINI

    TRINI Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  9. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    No biggie. What you would see is how the fronts would fall on their own and how much gap is created between the front edges. As is, the right front is 1cm shorter than the left front. They sewed the button to align the pattern in the cloth but it doesn't sync up with the length of the strap. You either want to drop one front or pick one up from the shoulder. You could just find the natural position for the button and move it and disregard the pattern. The jacket could just not be sitting on your shoulders as they should.

    I can't discern if the jacket is meant to roll to the top button or if is intended to be a 3 roll 2.

    Looks like this cloth made up on the big side or to put it another way it "grew" during the making. Again, it could be intentional. One never knows in these matters.



    Once you get over 20 ounces you are approaching interior design/upholstery weights of cloth. Imagine trying to shape carpet. You have to adjust to the characteristics of the cloth which change with weight and cloth structure.

    To reach the trifecta you want the right combination of yarn, weave and weight, not that finishing isn't important.
    Mr. Booth, to put it in language you could relate to, bean, grind, temperature. Finishing = skill of the Barista

    One of the most perfect cloths for me was the Holland & Sherry Vendon Hopsack at 11/12 ounces but there are good cloths at different weights and other weaves. It is also somewhat subjective. Other tailors may not like what I like.
     
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  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    :slayer:
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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  12. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    The H&S rep told me you would take a piece if they made more of it and I told them I wanted in too.
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Told me I had to buy two pieces of any color I wanted. Over 140 yards of any color. What colors do you like?
     
  14. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Chris,

    The buttons are actually close to 1/2 inch lower than the buttonhole which I noticed yesterday. I have a dropped shoulder on one side so just must not have been taken into account here. No biggee and will have a local tailor adjust the buttonholes. Good eye.
     
  15. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    I feel like it's often been discussed how difficult it is to pair an outfit with this Gun Club. While it is limiting, I thought this worked very well today. Jeans or dark brown seem to go nicely plus any form of light blue shirt. Dark green trousers may work as well. We shall see.

    Apologies for the massive photo, but doing this on iPhone.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I was thinking like forest green chinos, or mid/dark brown trousers.
     
  17. forex

    forex Well-Known Member

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    Slew,
    is that the brown fresco fabric? And why are you wearing a 21 oz gun club in September, is it cold enough?:D
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    ^I actually had to turn some heat on the last two mornings getting ready. It is wonderful.
     
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  19. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    My heat just turned on this morning as well.

    It's nippy here especially in the shade. Walking around with the jacket unbuttoned is pleasant enough.

    I actually haven't taken possession yet of my brown fresco. It's in HK waiting for a fitting.
     
  20. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    I realized I never posted a formal fit photo of this coat I received last year from Steed. The 21oz blue Donegal herringbone. I hadn't had Edwin and Matthew make me a 3-patch yet and this fabric seemed suitable for it. It's incredibly comfortable, feeling like a nice blanket. Really great stuff and perfect in Winter with a sweater underneath (I generally use navy or red the latter of which picks up on some red flecks in the fabric).

    Don't worry, I am happy in the photo regardless of my face and the second one is an outtake of me waving to the neighbors. Came out well in the way is shows the shape of the coat while in motion.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2013
    7 people like this.

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