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Tailoring help- Bespoke in Pittsburgh

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Dr.Teatime, Sep 6, 2012.

  1. Dr.Teatime

    Dr.Teatime Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2009
    Dear All,

    I have commissioned my first bespoke item, from Cicco Tailors in Butler PA.

    I have just had the first fitting, where a canvas was covered with some left over material for fit purposes.

    The images are given below.

    I acknowledge that the shoulders are a little overpadded, and will be reduced. I have asked for a soft, more natural shoulder with a "shirt shoulder". This should reduce the divots.
    The breast plate will be reduced to make the front a bit more slim
    The back will be shortened to give a better balance.

    My questions are as follows:
    Where should the button stance be?
    Any recommendations on the size of the lapels? I want to have peak lapels
    General fit comments are particularly appreciated.
    There will be a total of 3 fittings for this coat, so I want to ask for the appropriate changes before the next fitting.

    Thanks in advance

    http://imageshack.us/g/694/pic1xl.jpg/
     
  2. Dr.Teatime

    Dr.Teatime Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2009
    help... please?
    comments appreciated
     
  3. Septimus

    Septimus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    219
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2012
    In my opinion (relatively limited experience), you don't want the peak lapels to be too wide. They already look wider because they're peak lapels, so look out for that. The shoulders don't look overly padded to me, but they could be smaller if you're looking for a more natural look. And, I'd lower the button stance; looks high.

    How's Cicco Tailors? Any past experience with them?
     
  4. Dr.Teatime

    Dr.Teatime Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2009
    Thanks for input Septimus.
    THis is my first commission with them. I saw some of their work in the shop, and they promised a lightly padded shoulder, and a neapolitan style. So I too the plunge for a single sportcoat.
    Frank (the father) and Larry (son) seem very nice. The first fitting looked pretty good to me, so I was impressed.
    Its completely benchmade according to them.
    I will post more as I get more fittings. Hopefully this will help other members in the Western PA region.

    They are not cheap, but not very pricey either.

    Any comments on the quarters or the balance.

    I will ask Frank to lower the button stance and make the lapels more narrow.
     

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