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tailor pressed my lapel roll?!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hrb, Aug 15, 2011.

  1. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    your custom suit maker is also a drycleaner?
     
  2. YoungAmerican

    YoungAmerican Well-Known Member

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    He probably means spot-cleaning. Many custom suit makers will spot clean, sponge and press a suit.
     
  3. yachtie

    yachtie Well-Known Member

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    Pretty common with custom makers. The suit is cleaned by the drycleaner and pressed by the tailor.
     
  4. orlagu

    orlagu Well-Known Member

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    ^ that. And/or at least (my) tailors have access to/hire reliable dry cleaners who know how to dry clean and press a lapel appropriately.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2011
  5. GoldenTribe

    GoldenTribe Well-Known Member

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    There's a thumbs-up function now, you know.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. hrb

    hrb Well-Known Member

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    This is actually what it look ed/s like. thanks again sator for the advice.
     
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    It came back looking like a cheeseburger? Did you eat it?
     
  8. hrb

    hrb Well-Known Member

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    i was going to but, given it's murderous tendencies, thought it better to fedex the dillusional entree to the aforementioned tailor.
     
  9. TDP

    TDP Well-Known Member

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    Cambridge, MA
    Triumph, comrades! My closet is so tightly packed that my suits quickly lose their lapel rolls. Using Sator's advice, however, I restored the virility of my dinner suit in anticipation of a little shindig tonight. Check out the beautiful wave on this thing!
    [​IMG]
     
  10. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

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    No boasting - just get a bigger one.
     
  11. Tailor Dan

    Tailor Dan Well-Known Member

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    This is the difference in our times as to he level of good dry cleaning around. You have to search for it. Whenever I have moved to a new area I would take 5 shirts and then find 5 dry cleaners nearby and test them out. Would only set me back £20 max ($32 - dry cleaners are quite expensive here) and go with the best press, clean and service. Then test that one with a crap suit. Of they did a good job they would get my business.

    Also, tell them what ou want clearly. Sadly you can't expect them to know what is in style or fashionable or what you want anymore. They see something they think wrong so they try to fix it. Communicate well and should clear up any problems.

    http://gentlemansgent.blogspot.com/
     
  12. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

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    Have a look at:

    http://www.englishcut.com/

    and the video on pressing a coat. That will advise you on how to recover this abomination.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Well-Known Member

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    +1
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. MarkSilber

    MarkSilber Member

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    So pleased to know I'm not alone requiring my cleaner to return suits & jackets with a properly rolled lapel. Never knew the difference until I had a jacket cleaned & pressed at a Hyatt hotel (Grand Cypress, Orlando, FL). Ever since seeing the difference, have worked to duplicate the magnificent look. Now, which rack suit makers deliver their product with a rolled lapel? Hickey's seems moderate...
     
  15. MarkSilber

    MarkSilber Member

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    Pleased to know there are others who insist on a rolled lapel. Never knew the difference until I had a jacket cleaned & pressed at a Hyatt hotel (Hyatt Grand Cyrpess, Orlando). Now, I need a rack suit maker who delivers its new products with true rolled lapels. Photos of Hickey suits are "OK" on their websites, but suits on retail racks all have crushed lapels. Who makes & delivers true rolled lapels?
     
  16. stubloom

    stubloom Well-Known Member

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    I would bet that those suits left the factory with rolled lapels. What happens in transit and at the retailer is another story.

    Unfortunately, every retailer has their "trusted" Jiffy steamer in the stock room. And a stock room associate just itching for the opportunity to wield it -- indiscriminately -- at everything in sight. Some of the larger department stores and "better" independent retailers even have professional steam/vacuum utility and pant presses in their alterations rooms. I see the fruits of their efforts almost every week. As Despos and Jeffreyd have always always reminded us: In the hands of the unskilled, steam is evil.

    As regards the pressing at the hotel, I can't determine from your post whether the comment was intended to be positive or negative. I would assume negative, only because very few hotels have their own dry cleaning/finishing operations in house and, even those very few attract and retain employees who generally can't find work at "ordinary" dry cleaners.

    I'd bet that 99.9% of hotels in the US subcontract their cleaning/pressing to outside contractors who "specialize" in the cheapest/fasted work in the industry. In comparison to the work produced by these subcontractors, the work produced by $2/discount cleaners is positively extraordinary.

    It's for this reason that I always advise my clients to never turn their fine garments over to a hotel concierge. Furthermore, if they have no other option and they absolutely have to have something done before they return home, I always advise them to make the effort to find a cleaner in the area who might take a little more care.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2012
  17. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    I have never, ever found a dry cleaner that didn't press the lapels flat around here. It's so frustrating. I had to resort to using dry cleaning sprays and brushes myself...
     
  18. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Well-Known Member

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    I was having problems with my dry cleaner and consistency. They are one of several outlets that send their stuff to a main plant, but they impressed me the first few times I gave them things. I found that piping up about what it is you are looking for has helped.

    They were rolling the lapel (because I had expressly told them to -- along with stuffing the sleeves with tissue, using cardboard inside the shoulders to keep the shoulders round and covering the buttons with foil) but they would force a 3/2 to a 3/3 and then attach one of those cardboard button things, which would throw off the roll quite a bit.

    Once it happened a couple of times, I pointed it out and now it has not happened again. I reiterate my wishes every time I drop off a sports coat or suit and so far, so good.
     

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