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Suit pictures

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dah328, Oct 25, 2004.

  1. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

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    I've seen several requests for pictures of Chan suits since Kai posted his several months ago. Â Also, I'm curious to see what kind of insightful (scathing) criticisms the notoriously discriminating forum members will have for me. Â That said, I apologize in advance for the poor quality of the pictures. Â The lighting and detail came out much worse than I had hoped for. Â Even so, the general silhouette should be apparent and I do have a closeup of the cuff buttonholes as once requested by a member. The first three pictures are of my WW Chan tuxedo. Â They made it over the course of three fittings that I had while in Hong Kong so it's not a pure MTM deal. Â It's a SB, one-button, peak lapel in midnight blue with no vents. Â It's definitely the best jacket I have in terms of both fit and workmanship, but then I don't own much else in the way of higher-end jackets. Â As mentioned before, the third picture is a closeup of the working sleeve buttonholes which are certainly a nice touch on this jacket. Â The last two pictures are of a suit I had made (before the Chan tuxedo and before I knew better) by Noble House, an MTM outfit out of Hong Kong. Â That said, it does fit better than any RTW suit I own and the fabric is nice, but the silhouette and workmanship are uninspiring. Â It's a SB three-button jacket with a center vent. In anticipation of some feedback, let me make a few comments. Â - Despite the variation in the pictures, I think the sleeve lengths on both jackets are correct. Â Whenever I move at all, I end up with variation in the amount of cuff showing at the wrist. - I think the "bumps" on the shoulder of the Chan jacket just mean that it needs to be pressed. - And yes, my roommate, whose interest in tailored clothing is essentially zero, made some wisecrack about Chinese suits right before the shot of the front of the Noble House suit. Again, any questions or feedback are welcome. Â I'm planning to order another Chan suit during their next visit and I'm still deciding what kind of details I will request. Regards, dan [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. Brian SD

    Brian SD Well-Known Member

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    I think both suits look nice. You don't seem to happy with the pinstripe suit you posted, but I think it looks quite nice.. I am particularly fond of the shoulders. As for the dinner suit (tuxedo, is there a difference?), I think it looks good, but I am curious about the wrinkling in the sleeves. Did you pull them up to show more cuff? They look somewhat puffy (particularly from the back), it almost looks like the shirt you are wearing is too baggy around that area and it's causing the suit to pillow out like that.
     
  3. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

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    I haven't seen the wrinkling in the sleeves of the tux before.  You make a good point about the shirt.  The tux shirt that Chan made for me was very fitted and the shirt I was wearing in the picture was certainly less fitted.  I'll have to pay more attention to that in the future.

    Regarding the pinstriped suit, it's fine for what it is -- a moderately well-fitted fused suit with pretty nice material.  It cost about what a Chan suit costs, though, so I think I could have done better for the money.  Also, there appear to be some ripples on the back of the jacket below my right shoulder.  I hadn't seen those before, but I don't think they can be attributed to a need for pressing.

    Regards,

    dan
     
  4. spatten

    spatten Well-Known Member

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    I think both the dinner jacket and the suit look great. I agree with Brian that the shoulders of the pinstripe are excellent.

    My only nitpick would be the wrinkles in the back of the jacket as you have already mentioned. Hard to say if it is due to excess fabric or wrinkles in the cloth.
     
  5. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    Nice looking dinner suit. The 3-button also looks nice, but probably photographs better than what it is from what you are saying.

    My one experience with Chan is that they will build shoulders out way too far if you let them. They didn't quite do that for you, but the tops of the shoulders are beyond the natural outer edge of the sleeves, and the roped edge of the shoulder/arm joint is fairly prominent when viewed from the back. You might see about asking them to soften that a bit--- provided that they can keep the beautiful shape of the body and otherwise keep the armholes high. Others more experienced might be able to specify terms more precisely.
    You don't want to mess with success, but that's where I would go if making one change only.

    Lucky you for establishing a good relationship with a relatively inexpensive, high-quality shop such as Chan.
     
  6. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the comments. I will ask Chan about the shoulder/arm joint on my next order.

    dan
     
  7. brescd01

    brescd01 Well-Known Member

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    You asked for our opinion: therefore, I have to say that both jackets look extremely sharp, but of course only you can know how comfortable or well-constructed they are. The nit picking about fit can continue forever, so I recommend getting adventurous and individual in your style and fabric choices, to give you more to adore in the garment. Think about all the beautiful possiblities, which are all still well within the bounds of good taste...
     
  8. Tom

    Tom Well-Known Member

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    The wrinkled appearence on the right arm from the posterior...
    it looks as if the sleeve got stuck above your double cuff is all. Look closely and you'll see what I mean.

    -Tom
     
  9. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I think the sleeve just got caught on your shirt cuff.

    I really like the shape of the tuxedo jacket. I actually like shoulders that extend about 1/2 inch past my shoulder, so I wouldn't worry too much about the shoulders if I were you. I think it looks great.
     
  10. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    One problem I've noticed with Chan is that their jackets tend to get stuck on the back of french cuffs, creating an unsightly wrinkling in the sleeve. Â [​IMG] Good catch, Tom. Â I didn't pick that up in the picture the first five times I looked at it. Â I agree that the dinner suit is sharp, though the lighting for that picture is god awful. Â The Noble House is sharp as well. Â I actually think the shoulder is PERFECT. Â Too bad it's fused (it gets absurd that we almost categorically reject fused on this board, but . . .). Â Still, that is an eminently wearable suit. Thanks for the pics. Â FYI, Dr. Bresch, I ordered a second Chan suit today and I couldn't get myself to go with anything other than mid-grey. Â I'm still building the basics and I didn't have a swatch book to peruse through because I only had a couple of swatches sent to me. Â Next time I will explore the more creative possibilities (I really want a small glen plaid dark grey with a blue or red windowpane over it -- I saw a Baldessarini like this but didn't love the pants so I didn't buy it. Â Oh well).
     
  11. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Well-Known Member

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    You have asked us to criticize so I will be frank; I don't like them both, they look like middle class RTW suits. I will not speak about fabric, because it is hard from a picture, nonetheless it does not seem first class either.

    Maybe quality/price is good, but you didn't speak about that.

    Tuxedo:
    - position of pockets is wrong
    - sleevheads are too long, typical of not tailored suits
    - buttonholes seems to be machine sewn
    - shoulder line, I don't like
    - line in general is a bit stiff, there's no movement
    - in my opinion, one button tuxedo is an error per se

    Pinstripe Suit:
    - position of pockets is wrong (the low pockets should be where the low button is)
    - distance of buttons is wrong (should be more)
    - sleevheads are too long, typical of not tailored suits
    - lapels lift up, typical of not tailored suits
    - shoulder line, I don't like
    - line in general is a bit stiff, there's no movement
    - single vent is an error, in particular in a suit like this

    I hope I haven't been too rude, and to be useful for your next suit.
     
  12. brescd01

    brescd01 Well-Known Member

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    Johnnynorman 3, this is something I wish I could communicate, I know everyone is wrapped up with fit, this Holy Grail, and that is important. But the pleasure of selecting fabric from a magisterial collection of the world's best, this alone makes bespoke worth while. And to my untrained eye, it was the first thing that separated Centofanti from the lesser characters, his huge collection and vast knowledge about it.
     
  13. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Well-Known Member

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    Bresch, you got an important point.

    One of the pleasures of bespoke, is to select fabrics. I buy fabrics separately, from shops around the world, maybe vintage fabrics or uncommon handmade fabrics from small workshops.

    Then I bring them to my tailor. And there is also some saving from this.
     
  14. Alias

    Alias Well-Known Member

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    I do agree with Giona's statements, with the following caveats:

    Maybe you like your shoulders extended a bit. That's fine. Chan looks like it adheres closely to the English school of tailoring. Not sure about Noble House, but if they do, well there you go.

    The pinstriped suit has a very closed front. I would prefer to see it a bit more open. As it is, there's too much open at the top, not enough at the bottom.

    I personally like my breast pockets higher, but this is entirely up to you.

    About the lapels on the pinstriped: Some pressing might take care of that "lifting" they're doing off the chest. Some tailors don't know how to press lapels properly. This can be an issue here. Warning: It's very hard to do, so I guess you have to find a decent pro.

    Everything else looks fine to me. Even considering all of our nitpicking, you'd still look better than 90% of men out there. Way to go.
     
  15. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

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    A few comments and questions:

    How do you think the pockets should be placed?

    What portion of the suit comprises the sleevehead?  How much shorter do you think it should be?

    What kind of shoulder line would you prefer?

    I completely agree.  That is one of the biggest issues I have with that suit.

    Not at all.  Thanks for the feedback.  How else, after all, do we learn?

    dan
     
  16. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    For what it's worth, I disagree with Mr. Granota almost entirely.
     
  17. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

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    Now that you mention it, I agree.  By "not enough at the bottom", I assume you mean more open front quarters?

    Interesting point.  I'll have to consider that.  Do you think it is elongating or do you prefer it for another reason?

    Thanks for your comments,

    dan
     
  18. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

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    I disagreed with a few of his points as well, but I find it very educational to hear other's informed opinions.  I found Mr. Granota's posts on jacket shoulders on the suit silhouettes topic very informative.  It seems to me that shoulder line is an abstract concept and quite subject to personal taste.

    Thanks for your comments.

    dan
     
  19. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Well-Known Member

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    >How do you think the pockets should be placed?

    I agree with Alias about breast pocket: higher.

    Other Pockets:it is difficult to position them on a one button jacket. I think the distance from the only button should be more; the button (waist) should be higher but this is my taste.

    On the other jacket,I will position the pockets just in line with the first (low) button; this is a tailoring rule I see respected in many style (english, italian, american).

    The golden rule for button distance is (In Italy): at least 4,3 inches (11 cm.).

    >What portion of the suit comprises the sleevehead?  How >much shorter do you think it should be?

    The attachment of the sleeves from the shoulder to the armpit. It should be closer to your armpit.

    >What kind of shoulder line would you prefer?

    Indeed it is a matter of taste: I prefer higher on neck around your shirt,going down to the shoulder.

    >Not at all.  Thanks for the feedback.  How else, after all, do >we learn?

    Actually I see many defects in my suits also, and I plan to adjust for the next. Is the pleasure of the bespoke, isnt' it?
     
  20. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Well-Known Member

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    It's ok, really.

    Just share my experience.

    Can you detail why you disagree? I think this may help dah328 also.
     

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