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Suit concepts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by HitMan009, Nov 23, 2004.

  1. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    (Phil @ 23 Nov. 2004, 08:58) RL MTM, as well as Oxxford
    You mean this one? "Downtown Brown" Two button Salvatore model with peak lapels, soft shoulder and gentle waist suppression. Depicted in a chocolate brown with alternating double and single pinstripes. Oxxford Super 140s white shirt with blue stripes worn with Oxxford silk tie decorated with white "rice" pattern. [​IMG]
    That is a very very different animal from the suit that J. posted. The Oxxford has a more built up and extended shoulder and the cut throught the chest is wider. On J.'s image, the shoulder is much narrower, with very very little padding with a slight "peak"/rope. The chest is close to the body,and the lapels have a larger "belly". Very Very different.
     
  2. Alexis

    Alexis Well-Known Member

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    Virulent bacteriophage and type species of the genus T4-Like Phages, in the family MYOVIRIDAE, infects E. coli and is the best known of the T-even phages. Its virion contains linear double-stranded DNA, terminally redundant and circularly permuted....

    sorry
     
  3. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    Very good [​IMG] .
     
  4. Phil

    Phil Well-Known Member

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    John April - sure you can wear a peak lapel suit with no tie, I do it all the time. I think it looks just fine. In fact, I often wear my peak lapel suit jackets with jeans, but thats a whole different story altogether.

    Alexis - Im sorry, I dont have the foggiest clue as to the fabric code or number. I look through the books, pick one I like, and go from there. Yes, its a good price for Oxxford MTM. The reason being was that particular suit was bought during "triple points" time at Saks, which basically shaved about $800.00 off the price of the suit.
     
  5. truthhurts

    truthhurts Well-Known Member

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    If you have the personailty it will work for you, not against you. Playing with contrast is fun [​IMG]
     
  6. Brian SD

    Brian SD Well-Known Member

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    The picture of the old guy in the awesome suit has surfaced again. I really really like it. It's fitted so perfectly, and the shoulders are a perfect shape... everything about it I really like except for the angle/shape of the lapels. While I would certainly not turn it down because of this detail, it would be 100% perfect if they were a bit narrower and angled more vertically.
     
  7. truthhurts

    truthhurts Well-Known Member

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    I don't think it's fitted that well. Anyone who's in shape could wear a 4 size too small suit and look like that imo. Look at the pulling of the fabric...

    The guy in the Oxxford looks much better to me.
     
  8. j

    j Well-Known Member

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    I agree with truthhurts, the fit is not perfect. There was another picture posted of him wearing a suit that looked Chaplinesque in its tightness. This one pulls in certain places, and it was suggested earlier that it may be unvented, exacerbating the problem. However, in fairness to the man (and his tailor), no suit can be expected to look its best when in descendre un escalier pose.
     
  9. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    The chest and shoulders are a perfect fit. People nowadays consider that look "small" or tight because now, people are used to the loose, ill fitting clothes.

    The pulling that you are seeing at the waist is usually seen in some Neapolitan bespoke clothing. That is a pleat to accomodate movement and ease.

    The Oxxford's shoulders are too big.
     
  10. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Well-Known Member

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    There are so many defects in the Oxxford example, that I will not lose time to enumarate them.
     
  11. Brian SD

    Brian SD Well-Known Member

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    I do think it is a perfect fit... I think the pulling around the waist is the result of the stance that he is in (his shoulders are set very far back). Of course, to quote A Harris sig, who quoted a book, whose author I cannot name off the top of my head, the perfect suit only exists in personal taste. I think it would look nicer on a man with a more athletic build, but hell, it looks great on that guy too.
     
  12. Sevcom

    Sevcom Well-Known Member

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    Isn't it also pulling because the bottom button's buttoned? In any case, it's pretty sweet.
     
  13. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    At this point, I can't tell which coat we're talking about. In any event, one thing that strikes me about Hoare's coat is the wrap. It's an old-school Savile Row tradition to give SB coats a bit of wrap, by setting the waist button and buttonhole much further from the edge of the coat than any Italian or American tailor would. That also explains, to some extent, the pulling of the waist. But a tailor ought to be able to compensate for that. Hoare's great claim to fame was his attempt to resolve the Ethiopia crisis by cutting a secret deal with the French foreign minister to divide the country in Mussolini's favor -- a sort of Munich avant la lettre. The plan was leaked before the British and French governments could finalize it, and the ensuing outrage forced Hoare to resign. When Hoare relinquished the seals of his office to King George V, the king said to him, "Do you know what they're all saying? No more coals to Newcastle, no more Hoares to Paris." George later remarked, "You know, the fellow didn't even laugh."
     
  14. mistahlee

    mistahlee Well-Known Member

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    Marvelous. Â Where did you get that anecdote?
     
  15. sirgarnetwolseley

    sirgarnetwolseley Well-Known Member

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    A question about the lapels. Why does it look as though the left one (on him) appears as though it rolls to the middle button while the right one looks as though it rolls to the top one? Regarding the pulling around the bottom button; is it possibly caused by the fact he is photographed mid-stride with his left leg well back, pulling the back of his unvented jacket? Personally, I think the fit of the jacket and trousers is exceptional. He has perhaps a touch more break in the trousers than I prefer though.
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    From Churchill's memoirs. Â It's also in William Manchester's The Last Lion, Volume 2, Alone.
     
  17. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    It's hard to tell from the photo, but it could be that the left side of the jacket collar is too low, causing the lapel to roll long.

    Possibly, but a well made coat ought to account for basic movement.  Another problem is that he's got the bottom button of the coat fastened.  Major no-no.
     
  18. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Well-Known Member

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    Manton,

    Do you think hacking pockets are a better fit with a peak lapel SB? I always thought the regular horizontal pockets didn't have the flair to match with the added interest a peak lapel adds to the suit.
     
  19. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    I think slant pockets only look right on a sports jacket, or possibly on a tweed suit. They are a hacking detail, and to my eye look out of place on a formal business suit. It's like putting french cuffs on a button-down shirt. "Sartorial mixed metaphor", in Flusser's words.

    If you want to spiff up a single peak suit, try besom pockets (i.e., pockets without flaps). Those go well with the added formality of the peaked lapel.
     

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