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Suit brands for slim men: fully canvassed/half canvassed/fused - the definitive list

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lovelux2010, Aug 18, 2010.

  1. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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    For SF members who are slimmer than average and/or shorter this is a work in progress of mens suits and specs. I have pulled together existing SF knowledge. This thread is made so you can just read the page 1 original post, all the information from subsequent posts will be found here so you dont have to go through all the pages taking your own notes.

    We know Brioni, Kiton etc make lovely suits, but what about options for us who need a smaller cut (short fitting and/or slimmer cut)? There are so many brands none of us seem to know anything about (construction, maker) - Margiela, Costume National etc etc etc!

    Please note - prices are approximate and information based on reading the thread may not be accurate. I hope members of SF can help add to the list. Many of us visit shops and view suits first hand to view construction, while some of you have “insider” knowledge, and some of us can gather information by looking at the label finder/secrets thread..

    Please only add or take away information you are confident in, I will edit the thread periodically and this list will be forever evolving as brands change factories frequenty…

    I realize I do not have a big selection of lines (i.e. Ermenegildo Zegna Milano, Roma versus Z Zegna etc) so lets work on this. Finally, this is not a place to discuss the merits of canvassed versus fused nor a place to debate fashion led brand versus classic suitmakers, its just a place where members can find out what they are buying in order to make informed decisions about
    - fully canvased/half canvassed or fused?
    - price range of line?
    - maker of the suits? (i.e. Gucci made by Zegna)
    - available in a short fitting?

    AS OF September 15th 2010
    Fully Canvassed
    Armani Collezioni: E Zegna
    Ermenegildo Zegna Roma: boxier fit than milano
    Ermenegildo Zegna Milano: slim fit
    Emenegildo Zegna Su Misuro (M2M): £1300+
    Canali: certain models are slim and do short fittings (the higher the model numbers the slimmer); £850+
    Lanvin: £1300+ and do short fittings
    Corneliani: £1400+ for slim fittings and do short fittings
    RLBL: £1400+; by Caruso?
    Dior Homme: £1500+; by Caruso? Generally are shorter cut suitable for shorter men
    Gucci: £1400+; Ermenegildo Zegna made, fit slim with high armholes
    Commes des Garcons
    Brooks Brothers Black Fleece: by Caruso?
    Tom Ford: £2500+; Ermenegildo Zegna
    Hermes: Belvest?
    Valentino
    Paul Smith Mainline
    Thom Browne: Oxxford,
    Band of Outsiders: Greenfield,
    *lots of info on ARMANI found construction per line found here:
    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=160299


    SOMETIMES fully canvassed (depends on model)
    Armani Black Label: £1500+


    MAY be fully canvassed???? (need help to clarify)
    Costume National
    Jil Sander: made by Pal Zieri

    Half canvassed
    Prada: £1400+; Belvest were/are fully canvassed by i could not find fully canvassed suits at Prada during 2010 visit
    Costume National: anyone know which lines are fully canvassed, which are half etc?
    YSL Rauve Gauche: £1400+, fit nicely on shorter frame
    Raf Simons?
    Z Zegna: very slim cut, have short fittings £900+
    Dries vN?
    Calvin Klein Collection?
    Paul Smith Byard
    Marc Jacobs Collection
    Brooks Brothers 1818 Fitzgerald: £400 up
    Suit Supply RTW, GBP200-300 (US$320-480)
    Reiss, GBP300-400 (US$480-640)
    Austin Reed, GBP300-400 (US$480-640)

    Fused


    Unknown: (need info on pricing, short fitting, maker, etc)
    Kris van Assche
    Marc Jacobs
    Baleniaga
    Raf Simons
    Givenchy
    Margiela
    Giorgio Armani
    Viktor and Rolf
    J. Lindenberg
    APC
    Galliano
    Ozwald Boateng
    Etro
    Theory
    Lad Musician

    (WILL MOVE UP TO APPROPRIATE CATEGORIES WHEN INFO COMES IN..)
     
  2. zerostyle

    zerostyle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 13, 2010
    How about the ehaberdasher Benjamin suit? Fully canvased, $500, apparently supposed to be pretty slim. The rep told me it was close to an Isaia fit, but I don't know for sure.
     
  3. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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    did a quick SF search..looks like we would have to specify the line its from..i'm not familiar with their lines
     
  4. hermes man

    hermes man Well-Known Member

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    as a fan of Giorgio Armani i am disappointed that they didt even make it in the list

    despite being the best suit maker in the world

    if you dont believe me go ahead and watch all those hollywood movies , they always mention "armani suit"
     
  5. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Well-Known Member

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    Toronto, Canada
  6. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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    noble effort... but SEARCH goddamit!

    At least for the purposes of a subset of slim guys, the "short" ones, there have been a million threads about it, including one I started that's somewhat related to this. All at least mention some suit brands that work for slim guys.
    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=168432
    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=139456
    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=139456



    i realize the sllim/short suits have been covered before, but the purpose of this thread is for us to know the price range and more importantly the structure (canvassed vs fused) of the suits we are considering. also, this thread is more for men considering quality garments, so avoiding cheap brands etc
    the posts you link to just talk about "fit" but there is no comprehensive thread that factors in the quality of these slim/short suits..

    hence the new post. anyways thanks for the links they are helpful
     
  7. Svenn

    Svenn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 15, 2008
    and more importantly the structure (canvassed vs fused) of the suits we are considering.

    My fused suit looks, feels, and fits better than my full-canvassed bespoke one... don't buy into the internet hype that full-canvassing is always superior... it usually is, but not always.
     
  8. hermes man

    hermes man Well-Known Member

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    hello guys i just bought a Giorgio Armani black label suit how do i know if its a canvassed,half canvassed , fused , or quarter fused any way to check and verify ?
     
  9. Mountains

    Mountains Well-Known Member

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    I bought a Calvin Klein Collection suit a few weeks back. The line fits relatively slim, retails around $1000-1400, and I believe it's half-canvassed.
     
  10. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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  11. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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    I bought a Calvin Klein Collection suit a few weeks back. The line fits relatively slim, retails around $1000-1400, and I believe it's half-canvassed.

    added to the list under half canvassed with a "?" until someone can clarify
     
  12. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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    My fused suit looks, feels, and fits better than my full-canvassed bespoke one... don't buy into the internet hype that full-canvassing is always superior... it usually is, but not always.


    not a forum to discuss whats better...
    just a place where people can find out what they buy as many online retailers do not specify. if you like glued suits all good.
     
  13. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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    as a fan of Giorgio Armani i am disappointed that they didt even make it in the list

    despite being the best suit maker in the world

    if you dont believe me go ahead and watch all those hollywood movies , they always mention "armani suit"



    giorgio armani now added to the list, can you clarify how your suits are constucted?

    as far as armani being the best suits, this is really just a forum so people know the price range of slim fit suits for men, whether the suits are canvassed or half canvassed or fused, and who makes the suits (manufacter, location of factory)..that way we can make the most informed purchase decision. this is not a place to discuss which suit is best.

    thanks
     
  14. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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    How about the ehaberdasher Benjamin suit? Fully canvased, $500, apparently supposed to be pretty slim. The rep told me it was close to an Isaia fit, but I don't know for sure.

    hello..this is meant to be for suits in the $800+ price range..so we're not going to cover h&m, topman, etc

    come on SF need your help to fill tons of blanks above, i'm searchign through forums on info like "who makes hermes/mj/dries etc suits" buts tons of info is from 2007 or so..

    hermes still belvest? mj? etc?
     
  15. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Well-Known Member

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    hello..this is meant to be for suits in the $800+ price range..so we're not going to cover h&m, topman, etc come on SF need your help to fill tons of blanks above, i'm searchign through forums on info like "who makes hermes/mj/dries etc suits" buts tons of info is from 2007 or so.. hermes still belvest? mj? etc?
    Where did you get the $800 number from? many suits on that list are in the 2k range. As for the makers just read the HOF labels thread, it shows you how to tell which maker made the suit.
     
  16. hermes man

    hermes man Well-Known Member

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    giorgio armani now added to the list, can you clarify how your suits are constucted? as far as armani being the best suits, this is really just a forum so people know the price range of slim fit suits for men, whether the suits are canvassed or half canvassed or fused, and who makes the suits (manufacter, location of factory)..that way we can make the most informed purchase decision. this is not a place to discuss which suit is best. thanks
    alright understood [​IMG] i am sorry as this is only my second suit and i cant really tell by myself but ill try my best to describe the suit but i did asked the sales assistant about the structure of the suit but it appears that the sales assistant has no idea what i was talking about when i was asking whether the suit is canvassed or fused or half canvassed , but compared to my first suit from Emporio Armani , this black label suit feels alot lighter and thinner it is made of 85% ramie and 15% silk as appose to of blend of wool and polysthene for my EA suit the lining inside also looks alot better than EA one .. but i love the GA one as it is shiny and the color changes under different brightness (from shiny charcoal grey to shiny brownish) and under hot weather in my country i can feel that the GA feels alot more comfortable than my EA one (maybe because it is thinner lol) price different are 1370$usd for the EA suit and 2968$usd for the GA (after conversion from our currency) 50% discount on F/W 2009 , 30-40% discount on S/S 2010 , no discount for F/W 2010 sorry for not being able to give more details as i am not sure myself on the canvassing/fusing ... its off the rack but slightly tapered leg with an unfinished hem for custom length which i have to paid extra 14$usd
     
  17. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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    Where did you get the $800 number from? many suits on that list are in the 2k range. As for the makers just read the HOF labels thread, it shows you how to tell which maker made the suit.


    you can see rough pricing i've put beside the suits, if you feel i'm wrong, tell me whcih ones are wrong..but any prices are prices i've seen in london recently, of course will differ across the world. the $800 number is just trying to clarify, shoudl be "highish" end suits.

    i'll check out HOF forum and will add in labels i find..but i doubt all labels above covered, plus some lables may be from years ago and manufactuers keep changing. point is trying to have an up-to-date list.
     
  18. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Well-Known Member

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    alright understood [​IMG]

    i am sorry as this is only my second suit and i cant really tell by myself but ill try my best to describe the suit

    but i did asked the sales assistant about the structure of the suit but it appears that the sales assistant has no idea what i was talking about when i was asking whether the suit is canvassed or fused or half canvassed ,

    but compared to my first suit from Emporio Armani , this black label suit feels alot lighter and thinner

    it is made of 85% ramie and 15% silk as appose to of blend of wool and polysthene for my EA suit

    the lining inside also looks alot better than EA one .. but i love the GA one as it is shiny and the color changes under different brightness (from shiny charcoal grey to shiny brownish)

    and under hot weather in my country i can feel that the GA feels alot more comfortable than my EA one (maybe because it is thinner lol)

    price different are 1370$usd for the EA suit and 2968$usd for the GA (after conversion from our currency)



    ok. well all i'm after is:
    - fully canvased/half canvassed or fused?
    - price range of line?
    - maker of the suits? (i.e. Gucci made by Zegna)
    - available in a short fitting?

    thats it really..
    as far as quality of GA search the forum, they come up in dozens of posts. thanks
     
  19. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Well-Known Member

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    Cambridge, England
    as a fan of Giorgio Armani i am disappointed that they didt even make it in the list

    despite being the best suit maker in the world

    if you dont believe me go ahead and watch all those hollywood movies , they always mention "armani suit"


    You can't be serious...
     
  20. Maccimus

    Maccimus Well-Known Member

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    Shanghai
    You can't be serious...

    i am afraid he is serious
     

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