1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Suggestions for first dry denim

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by RBales, Jul 12, 2006.

  1. RBales

    RBales Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2006
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    Hi all, been lurking around this forum since early this year, and decided it was time for me to stop drooling over all the nice jeans posted and buy some. I'm not really new to premium denim, but I'm looking to get my first pair of dry jeans.

    I'm specifically looking at the APC straight jeans, which i take it are the same as the rescues? I've read the APC sizing thread I don't even know how many times but I'm still not sure what size to order. I want them to be fitted but definetly not tight by any means. I wear a 32 in every jean I own (a 32 fits me perfectly in the R&R Henley cut and all PDC and SFAMK bootcuts). Should I order the straight jeans in a size 30?

    Are the APC's even a good dry jean to start out with? I live in Madison, WI so I've been debating heading down to Context (about 15 minutes from my parent's house) to check out some Nudie's, too, but I'm not entirely sure how much to size down for those either. Which would you guys recommend?
     
  2. Spencer Young

    Spencer Young Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    316
    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2005
    Location:
    Chicago
    I wear a 32 in mostly all of my jeans. I was afraid of getting too much of a nuthugging jean when I took the plunge on some APCs, so I got a 31 (Rescue). I wish I'd sized down to a 30, as they stretch out a bit - I now have to use a belt and it bunches up a bit. I ordered both the 30 and 31, but returned the 30 (poor choice, in retrospect).

    I think they're a very good starter dry jean. Less expensive than Nudies and tough as steel. If you end up loving APCs, then maybe try Nudies later.
     
  3. Saucemaster

    Saucemaster Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,678
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Location:
    San Francisco
    The Rescues are great, but my experience--and I hate to add more confusion here, but this is APC; it can't really be avoided--is that the Rescues are actually tagged about three sizes too small. [​IMG] I agree with the standard assesment on the New Standards, which is "size down 2", but my personal experience with the Rescues has been "size down 3". So while the size 30 probably won't be too bad, you may very well want to consider a 29. If there's any way you can order both and just return the one that doesn't fit, that's ideal.

    I think APC and Nudie both make jeans that will be great "starters" for dry denim. The big difference is mostly price and aesthetics. As for trying on those Nudies, I say go for it. You might find that there's a certain fit you love; at the very least, it gives us all another benchmark to compare (a lot of us, for example, own both APCs and Nudies, so we can probably translate that sizing fairly well).
     
  4. dizzhizz

    dizzhizz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    555
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2006
    Location:
    box maker
    I normally wear a 33 but for the APC rescues I got them in a 31. I tried the 30 as well but couldn't even close two buttons.

    The waist did stretch out and I require a belt. Still happy with the sizing though as they look slim but not tight.
     
  5. RBales

    RBales Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2006
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    Thanks guys, I went and tried on some straight svens today (since I'm looking for a straighleg) and I loved the fit of the 32's, so now I'm really stuck.

    Would you guys recommend sizing down to a 31 on the nudies or would a 32 be best? They have a great price on these at Oi Polloi so if I got them I'd be getting them there. You guys have any experience at that place? Do they just automatically convert the british prices into dollars or is there something I have to do?

    Thanks again for all the advice [​IMG]
     
  6. DGP

    DGP Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,100
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    I can say I've been to Context, I think that the guys that run that place are great, and for the size of their store, they have a lot of stuff. For dry Nudies, I'd say buy the smallest size you can button all the way up the first time you put them on. They will also special order stuff if their supplier has it in stock.
     
  7. DGP

    DGP Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,100
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    I hate to add more confusion here, but this is APC


    There is a reasonI drive a Swedish car instead of a French one [​IMG]. Oh yea, and I'm a Nudie guy, not an APC guy [​IMG].
     
  8. sbbbjm

    sbbbjm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    556
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2005
    before you get a Straight Sven keep in mind that the streaky selvage doesn't develop as much contrast as the japanese selvage they use in the Ralfs. if you wait i think the F/W 06 Sven collection will include the japanese selvage version (i think they are bringing it back, it's listed on the new site).

    i like the nudie japanese selvage, because it has a richer more true blue color. i think you can get alot better color depth, and are bit richer in hues. for some reason the nudies felt a lot thicker to me than my APC's (could just be more starch). the APC's are also great but i think they are slightly purple tinted which means the denim is a little darker. i also think the japanese selvage nudies have a tiny bit of streakiness (no where near the 'flame' selvage though) that makes for a nice looking texture once they have been washed.

    in terms of fit -- get the snuggest pair you can get without having to suck in your stomach. in my experiences with selvage . . . yes they will stretch out a lot, but once you wash them they shrink back up in the waist to normal size if not more. you'll have to wear a belt but its not a big deal. i know i'm going against the grain on this but its worked for me on the Ralf pair that i have. i had a pair of APC English cut a while back and i bought them way small like everyone says and they stretched but after the wash it sucked cuz they got tight and didn't stretch as much.

    another thing about the fit of nudies i've noticed is that they are cut very,l very straight in the hips. just a little FYI. i mean you can see it when they are just laying out that they are cut straight so if you have junk in the trunk nudies might suck for you.

    ALSO, dont forget about the length! -- another mistake i made with the APC's and my pair of Ralfs. make sure when you buy them that they are at least 1.5 too long for you, 2 wouldn't hurt. whatever you do don't buy them if they are the perfect length for you in their unwashed state! -- there are conflicting stories, but after doing a cold water wash on my APC's they still shrunk up about an inch to short.

    both are wonderful starter jeans that will produce great fades!
     
  9. sbbbjm

    sbbbjm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    556
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2005
    how much do they go for on oi polloi -- i was never able to figure out the conversion quite right.

    you can get dry svens (not dry selvage svens) on kitchener.ch for ~$136. they are made of the great old flare glenn material. that stuff fades awesomely even though its not selvage!
     
  10. RBales

    RBales Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2006
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    how much do they go for on oi polloi -- i was never able to figure out the conversion quite right.

    you can get dry svens (not dry selvage svens) on kitchener.ch for ~$136. they are made of the great old flare glenn material. that stuff fades awesomely even though its not selvage!


    they're 95 pounds which I guess is about $200? At Context they're $260 so $200 seems like a pretty good deal. Is it worth the extra money to get the streaky selvedge over the dry non-selvedge pair at kitchener? Or is it worth it to get the svens at all with the japanese selvedge coming out in the fall collection?

    [​IMG] dammit I want to get a dry pair soon so that I can start breaking them in before I go back to college in the fall!
     
  11. sbbbjm

    sbbbjm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    556
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2005
    OH, if you go to revolveclothing.com they also have the selvage svens and ralfs. if you're a first time customer you can get a 30% discount on them, making them $184. just make sure you do you order over the phone! their customer service is really nice.
     
  12. RBales

    RBales Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2006
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    have any of you guys ordered from Oi Polloi?

    I'm about to order the dry selvedge svens from there because they're only coming out to about $175 which is almost $100 cheaper then Context. Even though I'd love to buy local, that's a lot of money to save. Is Oi Polloi a legit place? They won't rip me off or anything? And the shipping is relatively speedy?
     
  13. jean_connoisseur23

    jean_connoisseur23 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    257
    Joined:
    May 24, 2006
    1. apc new standard- this is probably the best starting jean for dry denim. affordable price for an excellent pair. fits like high-end denim, slightly tapered and slim fitting this a great choice as your first dry denim

    2. sugarcane 1947- this is the second best choice for your starter jean. has a fit similar to 501, straight-cut, low-rise and button-fly. a great levi's repro and a great buy at $175
     
  14. RBales

    RBales Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2006
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    thanks guys, i went ahead and ordered the straight svens in dry selvedge (i guess they call it the flame selvedge) from oi polloi in a 32x32. I can't wait for them to get here [​IMG]

    and where can you get those sugarcanes online? I'd like to see some pictures of them?
     
  15. dhamm

    dhamm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    76
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    Its hard trying on nice denim in Wisconsin, Ive lived there all my life until a few months ago when I moved to Minneapolis (not much better). Id recommend Nudies, I have a few pairs now and Imm very satisfied.
     
  16. PunctualAlex

    PunctualAlex Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    71
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    I am going to blow your mind: Context is having a 50% off sale on all non-selvedge sweet denim. Right now. Seriously, I just picked up a pair of SJ dry for $87.50 shipped. Go to them... go to them right now.
     
  17. Saucemaster

    Saucemaster Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,678
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Location:
    San Francisco
    I assume they take phone orders? I might have to get in on this--I've been wanting a pair of Slim Jims for a while now....
     
  18. RBales

    RBales Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2006
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    I am going to blow your mind: Context is having a 50% off sale on all non-selvedge sweet denim. Right now. Seriously, I just picked up a pair of SJ dry for $87.50 shipped. Go to them... go to them right now.

    [​IMG]

    i haven't even gotten the svens i ordered yet and I think i'll head over there this weekend and pick up another pair of Nudies.

    I know the Ralf's get a lot of screentime on this forum, but since the selvedge isn't on sale would it be worth it to get regular dry Ralf's? How much does the selvedge actually affect the quality of the jean/denim?

    sorry for all the noob questions [​IMG]
     
  19. DGP

    DGP Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,100
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    [​IMG]

    i haven't even gotten the svens i ordered yet and I think i'll head over there this weekend and pick up another pair of Nudies.

    I know the Ralf's get a lot of screentime on this forum, but since the selvedge isn't on sale would it be worth it to get regular dry Ralf's? How much does the selvedge actually affect the quality of the jean/denim?

    sorry for all the noob questions [​IMG]


    I have both the selvage Ralfs and the greycast Ralfs. The selvage ones are getting washed soon (after about four or five wears) to keep them "dry" looking, for dress. The grey ones are being broken in the right way. I think both feel very high quality, and while I think the selvage are worth the extra $70 when you compare both at full price, the sale price of the greycast ones vs. full price on the selvage at Context is a good deal.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by