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st crispins vs vass

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by carpediem, Dec 30, 2009.

  1. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Well-Known Member

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    No.

    No, only the toe, and that's the lasting, not the welting.

    So what?

    Zzzzzzzz.


    - B


    Me think you not right properly.
    Completely handlasted and handwelted,
    machine stitched on outside,
    but hand done waist,
    me wrong about not using nails in handlasting, sorry
     
  2. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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    That looks like 2 pieces of leather to me.

    I think you're right. Unless they cut one piece and fold the V front
    over the tongue. In any case, I covet those shoes.
     
  3. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Well-Known Member

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    Say those who can't do it, or are too lazy to try.

    The stress on the leather is only during the blocking (crimping) process. Pulling the wet leather over the last, can easily result in a tear in the leather. Both MarcellHun and DWFII have tried it and have both succeeded in blocking at least one upper for a seamless whole-cut. I don't know, if they produced a second upper or turned it into a pair of shoes by putting a sole on.

    It might be difficult for a bespoke firm to take on an order for a seamless whole-cut as this depends very much on the leather, whether it will or will not respond as required (although I believe, Paolo Scafora has no qualms, about accepting orders for this style.}



    Always the excuse of the incompetent: "We'll make big stitches, that makes it easier to repair."

    Repairs should preferably be done by the firm, that has produced the goods in the first place. Hence nobody would have to take the competence of the lowest common denominator ("˜Mister Minit') into account. After all, would anybody give his Patek (with complications) to be repaired at 'Mister Minit'?

    I know that it's technically possible and that there are shoemakers who use this method. I, personally, don't like wholecut shoes so I'm maybe not the best to judge the durability of such a shoe. I can only pass on what I gathered through various talks with renowned shoemakers in this case.
    I totally agree with you that repairs should be done by the maker or at least a shoemaker whom you can trust. However, I don't see any sense in making the repairing process more difficult than is necessary, just to please an ignorant customer who thinks a shoe must have fewer seams to be of better quality. This is what I would call cheating, not service. We all know that repairing a shoe is financially better for most shoemakers than making a whole shoe. So, for me, it's quite clear why some shoemakers insist on using construction method which take forever to repair.

    So, I know it can be done, but I think it's useless.
     
  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Great video.


    - B
     
  5. Newcomer

    Newcomer Well-Known Member

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    That video is unbelievable. Vox, did you say that you dealt with a St. Crispins dealer directly through email?
     
  6. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    Lattanzi had something like a wholecut derby.
    I think even bengal stripe (!) did only speculate on the possible methds how they manipulated the leather!


    he is a man of theory, disgusting [​IMG]

    crimping = american. i never laughed better...
     
  7. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Well-Known Member

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    fritzl, he's busy inventing a method to clip wholecut leather uppers directly to the wearers foot without implementing any lacing or slipper function. He's not sure yet whether to do wood pegged or welted soles on this project, but I'm sure he'll find his way.
     
  8. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    fritzl, he's busy inventing a method to clip wholecut leather uppers directly to the wearers foot without implementing any lacing or slipper function. He's not sure yet whether to do wood pegged or welted soles on this project, but I'm sure he'll find his way.
    thanks, i would be seldomly glad, if he can assure he owns one single pair of custom made shoes. i doubt it... really he is just annoying, period. ...or to say it in manton's words: asshole
     
  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    he is a man of theory, disgusting :

    fritzl, he's busy inventing a method to clip wholecut leather uppers directly to the wearers foot without implementing any lacing or slipper function. He's not sure yet whether to do wood pegged or welted soles on this project, but I'm sure he'll find his way.

    They are a funny lot, fritzl and his poodle. (Could it be that iodine deficiency is still around in those remote Alpine valleys.) Oh no, definitely no wood-pegged shoes. I'm not a country bumpkin!

    I never comment negatively on other people’s choices. I did not comment on the sort of stuff fritzl posts here regularly, trying to construct an Austrian tradition (as any visitor to the shoe museum in Vienna can see there is a distinct change of direction with the end of WWII.)

    I did not comment on the sub-standard stuff fritzl flogs here and elsewhere. One can argue these disproportionately huge toe caps are an aesthetic choice of Mr Kiss, but the lasting is unbelievably poor. All these shoes have creases all over the vamp.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If people want to invest money in rejects, that’s their choice.

    Neither did I comment on a pair of Viennese boots. posted recently here. Everybody went ga-ga about then. I don’t like the white piping, looks to my mind just like a t-shirt poking out of some shirt collar. But did nobody see the poor leather on the inside quarter: looks to me like something from the belly or neck. That leather should have ended up on the floor, not in a boot.

    [​IMG]

    thanks, i would be seldomly glad, if he can assure he owns one single pair of custom made shoes. i doubt it... really he is just annoying, period.

    Well, as fritzl is asking, I took possession of these two boots during 2009

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And those are my lasts (one for derbies, one for oxford). I think everyone who is serious about shoes, should have his own last at home.

    [​IMG]

    But than, I have no commercial interest in shoes. As they say in German: "Every grocer praise his merchandise." I have nothing to sell.


    ...or to say it in manton's words: asshole

    I'm not FNB. Manton even gave me a 'thank you' in his book.

    crimping = american. i never laughed better.

    You might want to go to DWFII's forum and search for 'crimping'.

    http://www.thehcc.org/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi
     
  10. srivats

    srivats Well-Known Member

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    he is a man of theory, disgusting [​IMG]

    crimping = american. i never laughed better...


    fritzl, he's busy inventing a method to clip wholecut leather uppers directly to the wearers foot without implementing any lacing or slipper function. He's not sure yet whether to do wood pegged or welted soles on this project, but I'm sure he'll find his way.

    thanks, i would be seldomly glad, if he can assure he owns one single pair of custom made shoes. i doubt it... really he is just annoying, period.

    ...or to say it in manton's words: asshole


    These are very harsh words to describe someone who has shared a lot of knowledge on the forum. I hope you gentlemen were just joking about bengal-stripe.
     
  11. kev777

    kev777 Well-Known Member

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    These are very harsh words to describe someone who has shared a lot of knowledge on the forum. I hope you gentlemen were just joking about bengal-stripe.

    +1 take it somewhere else
     
  12. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    NYC

    [​IMG]




    That's hot [​IMG]
     
  13. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Well-Known Member

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    These are very harsh words to describe someone who has shared a lot of knowledge on the forum. I hope you gentlemen were just joking about bengal-stripe.

    +1000. Totally uncalled for. I can absolutely understand Manton's feeling toward that poaster.
     
  14. Baron

    Baron Well-Known Member

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    Los Angeles
    devastating comeback

    I don't think we have a smiley for how awesome this was.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Well-Known Member

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    That's hot [​IMG]

    +1.

    [​IMG]


    This pair are equally hot. Looks a bespoke version of City Boots from EG & Lattanzi commissioned by Asprey. Can you tell us more about those 2 pairs?
     
  16. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    This pair are equally hot. Looks a bespoke version of City Boots from EG & Lattanzi commissioned by Asprey. Can you tell us more about those 2 pairs?

    You are right! This is a copy of the Asprey 'City Polo Boot'.
     
  17. Germanicus

    Germanicus Well-Known Member

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    @bengal-stripe

    Why do you have different lasts for derbys and oxfords?
     
  18. srivats

    srivats Well-Known Member

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    @bengal-stripe

    Why do you have different lasts for derbys and oxfords?


    Probably because for most people the fit for oxfords and derbys is different.Derby's are more forgiving of fit than oxfords are, in my experience.

    Ideally, I think that one would need THREE lasts - one each for derbys, oxfords and loafers.
     
  19. Imperator

    Imperator Well-Known Member

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    Upper East Side, New York, NY
    You are right! This is a copy of the Asprey 'City Polo Boot'.

    The boots are amazing. May I ask who made them?

    Thanks.
     
  20. forex

    forex Well-Known Member

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    These are very harsh words to describe someone who has shared a lot of knowledge on the forum. I hope you gentlemen were just joking about bengal-stripe.

    +1,bengal-stripe seems one of the most valuable resources on this board. I can't imagine someone being knowledgeable about shoes and not having his shoes made custom.
    Also,I don't understand this bickering among the three users, they are all good contributors,but fritz comments were definitely out of line.
     

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