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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. dddrees

    dddrees Well-Known Member

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    Thank you sir
     
  2. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    I can't immediately think of a RTW brand that executes the wholecut as well as St. C. Like @PCK1 , I struggle with the value equation of the seamless Simply when the regular wholecut looks every bit as nice from almost any angle of view. I guess I'd rather put the difference toward a second pair. But if my pockets were deep enough to render such considerations moot, I'd grab the Simply in a heartbeat.
     
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    In my experience the classic and riva can almost be indistinguishable depending on the style of the shoe. You literally have to hold it up parallel to your eyes to see the bump at the toe. I agree on the comments on the chisel last. Sometimes it looks good, but again not with every style.
     
  4. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Wow, that is one great-looking wholecut.
     
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    They stocked that for a while at Leffot.
     
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    You know, that is one of those shoes (where I think there are many in this category) that is very beautiful as a standalone piece. Shows the craft, beauty of the materials and finishing, however is just that, a standalone piece. All of the contrast and such between the sole edge, piping, laces I just can't see it working well in many outfits. Certainly not a suit as it just grabs your eye and looks incongruent. Furthermore, it is a wholecut, technically a more formal piece of footwear.
     
  7. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    If I were to have it made, I would do so with dark sole/stitching. I never go with natural. Also no contract piping/liner.

    I mostly like the last and leather in that shot, and obviously switching to dark details is piece-of-cake.

    As for formality, idunno. Wholecut is appropriate for formal, but not innapropriate for informal, in my mind.
     
  8. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    I've been doing a good job of not buying shoes for the last year. I certainly have no need for any more. Shouldn't be reading shoe threads...
     
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    How many shoes do you have? I just find I wear out my shoes pretty fast so I am constantly catching up.
     
  10. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    About 10 in the work rotation, 5 of which get worn twice as often as the rest. 2 of which are rubber soled for rain appropriateness.

    I have type/color/formality spectrum well covered, to the point that additional shoes add little additional diversity. I have yet to need a resole (since going EG level in 2009).

    Clothing is a hobby but I have many other uses for cash, and the utility of an extra shoe is much less than the utility of a flight to Vegas or any other social activity.



    Do you replace rather than resole?
     
  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    No, I resole my shoes, but my shoes seem to suffer from cracked uppers at an alarming rate. Each shoe that has cracked I have replaced with a slightly better shoe in hopes of a longer life.
     
  12. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    @chogall - I have considered bespoke but I find that I generally fit pretty well into most lasts and I'm not a shoe designer...with MTO's I can get pretty much anything. I plan to start some work with Bestetti in a week or two on his Novecento line which is pretty close to bespoke...you send him measurements and photos of your feet and in shoes as well as info about shoes and lasts of other brands that fit you well...he sends you a trial shoe based one of his 4 lasts...and you take photos of your foot in the trial shoe...and then he makes further adjustments to the last and builds the shoe based on that. And in terms of style and design you can do pretty much anything you want.


    @patrickBOOTH - I have that wholecut and agree that it is not suitable for suits.
    I wear mine casually with jeans and chinos and dressed up with grey/blue trousers and odd sport coats.
    It doesn't look right with suits...but I am also a believer that with conservative suits only black shoes should be worn.



    @SoGent - As far as the riva last goes...I agree with PB that it does look very similar to the classic...especially at a distance or when being worn it is hard to tell the difference between the two. Photos of the riva below..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    That's strange. Maybe you put weird stresses on your shoes, or maybe you're unlucky. Store them near heat? Squish/stretch them when sitting? Fit is off?

    I use Saphir reno, which you disavow, and have not had any issues with uppers.
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    No, I store them fine, don't put unnecessary stress on them. I'm actually probably much more conscious of my shoes than most in normal everyday life. I do walk a lot though.
     
  15. Stirling

    Stirling Well-Known Member

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    Given the quality of footwear you are using the amount you walk should not result in cracked leather. It makes me quite sad whenever I read about your shoes, do you have pics btw?
     
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Not really on hand. It is quite annoying and I have basically just adopted it as normal at this point. They just become rain shoes until they look homeless.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2014
  17. forseti6

    forseti6 Well-Known Member

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    I dunno. I wear A LOT of plaids. Of my seven or eight suits I normally wear, all but two are plaids / windowpane. So I'm not dressing conservatively to begin with. I think these shoes will go perfect with some of my darker grey plaid suits or even navy plaid suits.

    Then again I'll also wear green shoes with my suits and dark blue shoes with my greys. My shoe closet is about 80% non-black. Not the biggest fan of black.
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I just feel that that slightly lighter shade of brown contrast is jarring with anything.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2014
  19. forseti6

    forseti6 Well-Known Member

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    I can see that. But ironically, that's what I found so attractive about it. I've just never seen another wholecut so stunning before. Personally, I don't mind drawing attention to my feet, so the light brown contrast is perfect in my eyes.
     
  20. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Agree completely.
     

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