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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. CrackedCrab

    CrackedCrab Well-Known Member

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    Mimosa those look great

    I treated my scs to some renovatuer
    And wore today

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    So it seems nobody really has much info on the tannery StC uses for their leathers. Another question: What is the point of "crust" leather? They even use it for black shoes and on mine it looks like other than the toe and heel there is very little dye used. Is there a certain benefit of getting unfinished leather and applying everything themselves?
     
  3. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Yes and no. ...


     
  4. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    I am aware costing has an impact and working with finished and unfinished leather another factor with the craftsman.

    also, you can create and mix your own unique set of colours exclusive to your self.


     
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Ok, but why would it be beneficial to do it with black? Is it not beneficial and just an aesthetic?
     
  6. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    9.5F G&G, 9EE JL, 8.5G SC.
     
  7. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Crust leather is not dyed through and has no tannery top finish so it can be faux antiqued. It's the leather of choice for EG, G&G and any shoemaker trying to do factory antiquing. Crust leather also has a softer hand in my experience, but it's probably not necessary true.

    SC uses leather toe puff, probably shoulder scraps. The length of the toe puff is designed to not go too deep toward the vamp as that will bite into your feet. But judging from the pic it's def too short and needs to be fixed.

    Cordovan has no give and won't stretch to conform to your feet. Calf has a lot better give and will soften up once worn and will feel like a glove.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. VRaivio

    VRaivio Well-Known Member

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    A prime reason why British cordwainers are not that keen on working the horse's ass. Oh, and it's a pain to last and the bubbly waves are a bit on the conspicuous side.
     
  9. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    I have to disagree with that. Cordovan stretches less than calf, but it is inaccurate to suggest it has "no give". It isn't Kevlar. My Carmina shell wholecuts definitely loosened up some and do indeed fit like a glove. Fit and comfort are far more a function of proper last and size than of material choice. But yes, calf is both thinner and "softer" overall.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Fiddler

    Fiddler Well-Known Member

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    I have corodovan in both lined and unlined models and the unlined version has stretched quite nicely, glove-like....on my other shoes the cordovan feels a bit stiffer.
     
  11. NAMOR

    NAMOR Well-Known Member

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    ^ STC models? I'm interested in whoever made the unlined version
     
  12. Fiddler

    Fiddler Well-Known Member

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    No, was just an observation on cordovan in general....my unlined CJ Harvard shell loafers are extremely pliable and have become almost sock-like while the carmina shell shoes still retain their relative toughness. I wouldnt go for shell in a high end shoe like SC/G&G....Im not such a fan of the wrinkles on shell...makes the shoe look decidedly casual. But thats just my view.
     
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  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    So you fuckers made me self-conscious about the creases in the captoes of my calf pair. Do you think this is something that can be addressed and fixed? I know StC is accommodating like this, but I cam curious what can be done to keep it from creasing the way it is. I am going to see Philip tomorrow and I can ask him, but I am just being impatient and curious about some thoughts in the meantime.
     
  14. celery

    celery Well-Known Member

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    You're shoes are fine, it's just a combination of the narrow toe and the line of the cap. Unless you plan on changing your foot or lengthening the shoe by a size that's where the crease will fall for you on this particular pair.

    If you can't accept it and you have no way to exchange for a different last that works better for your foot, then worst case scenario just use them as beaters for rainy days.

    But really, just wear them and enjoy them, it's just a crease.
     
  15. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Nothing I like more than using $1,800 shoes as rainy day beaters.
     
    6 people like this.
  16. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Well-Known Member

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    Honestly, at $1,800 a pair and with a reputation to maintain, St. Crispin's should offer to remake your shoes. They have made more than enough pairs to know that this type of thing can happen, and should have warned you that this pair could have these types of stretch marks. You aren't some litigious asshole and you know what nice stuff is. It would not be rude or gauche to ask them to correct this problem.

    $1,800 for a pair of shoes is probably be equivalent to driving a Porsche 911 Turbo S in the car world. Imagine if the headlights started fogging up. You'd definitely bring it in to be corrected and Porsche would do so free of charge.

    It would be a disgrace, however, to treat $1,800 shoes like beaters.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I'll talk to Philip today and see what he says and post results on the forum. I think I am fine with the creases, but once it was brought up it bruised my ego. If anything I can learn something on a profound level here. I think it would be a good exercise if Philip told me to go screw and accept the creases. Very Zen.

    To be honest, I would expect them to fix it if they were $6,000 bespoke shoes, but StC isn't, and creases or not, they still look awesome. I do remember others bringing up they had odd creases in their pairs as well. I am curious if it has to do with the leather they use. It is super supple and the "crust" leather seems to have very little finish on it. For example almost all other shoes that I have had even though they are not "corrected grain" seem to have a very shiny surface finishing. I don't know if it is just some sort of wax built up on it, or something else, but these are very fleshy and ready to absorb whatever I put on them. It is interesting, I'd like to get enrolled into why they use the leathers they do, because I am sure it is well thought out.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2013
  18. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Well-Known Member

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    I don't know, brah, but $1,800 for a pair of shoes represents a step below the highest echelon of the market (i.e. Lobb bespoke). Perhaps DWF can chime in, but I'd be interested to know how hard it would be to pull up the leather and put in a new toe puff. If my $300 Allen Edmonds do the crinkly toe cap thing, I can't really complain, but if my $1,800 custom St. C's went limp on me, I'd be a little miffed. Your shoes, your decision.
     
  19. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Well-Known Member

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    FWIW, Phillip has remedied small imperfections for me on two pairs, including paying for shipping both ways. If you're less than completely happy I'm confident he'll take care of you.

    Let us know how it goes.
     
  20. Fiddler

    Fiddler Well-Known Member

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    It all depends: if they measured your feet and then came up with this result...then they really should fix it.

    However if you just ordered the size you deemed fit, then it's up to them to decide and they might well agree to fix the problem in the interests of retaining you as a loyal customer.

    No harm trying....FWIW i have a number of calf shoes and the majority of them do not show major creases....in fact my SC chukkas have behaved well in this respect.
     

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