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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    4 people like this.
  2. sdfzs

    sdfzs Well-Known Member

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    Shearling lining just in time for loafer season?
     
  3. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

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    Indeed correct! I just had to, after getting my first fully shearling lined boots. It's just sooooo comfy. And it's 3 degrees centigrade and it's gonna snow on Saturday, so no loafer season in Sweden yet!
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    +1 on shearling. Good eye if that's it.
     
  5. sdfzs

    sdfzs Well-Known Member

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    Well, i'm picking up my 601 balmoral boots in ALP 074 / JAN Maraca tomorrow so i can go with that outlook some time still
     
  6. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

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    Varmt välkommen!
     
  7. sdfzs

    sdfzs Well-Known Member

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    Poor lighting disclaimer but with that being said these came out beyond great. Some natural light images coming...

    Back in late autumn at the StC trunk show i looked at the Alpine Grain leather (now referred to as Mountain Calf if i understand it correctly) and while the leather really caught my eye my mind was already set on something else. With heavy inspiration from another gentleman's pair around Christmas i placed the order on these in Feb and picked them up today. These alone make me manage some delays in warmer weather

    The grain texture in the ALP leather is very subtle, very similar to the TCK leather in my view. At distance looking similar to crust but up closes the grain structure kicks in adding an element to it.


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  8. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    Can folks possibly expound upon the differences between the ANI (aniline?) and the standard CRU? Pros and cons? Preferences for either?
     
  9. cypi2

    cypi2 Well-Known Member

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    This is what I remember from a discussion with a retailer:
    ANI (for aniline as you pointed out) calf leather is colored during the tanning process which gives this leather a much more uniform color.
    CRU (for crust), on the other hand, is dyed by hand once the shoes are finished, and as a result, the color of this leather is more subtle and nuanced.

    Some people point out that crust can get scuffed easier than aniline, and, that creases are sometimes more visible on crust than on aniline.
    Crust also requires more maintenance to retain its aspect. With no or little maintenance, dryness may be more apparent (these little white lines) on crust than on aniline leather.

    I have heard that from a maker's perspective working with crust can be a real ordeal because some leather imperfections may only be revealed during the dying process once the shoes are finished.
    While aniline leather can hide some minor leather imperfections.
    This could mean that makers will tend to select leather freer of imperfections to make crust leather shoes than they select to make aniline leather shoes..

    This is personal, but, I usually prefer crust leather because of the nuances in the color.
    And, I also find that the patina that builds on crust has a little more 'depth' and is richer than on aniline (I truly enjoy maintaining my shoes, by the way).
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. chifromdachi

    chifromdachi Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

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    A brisk spring day in LA, today.
     
    9 people like this.
  11. TtownMD

    TtownMD Well-Known Member

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    ^^^looking sharp man love the kudu color & pant combo sir !!
     
  12. benyslookbook

    benyslookbook Member

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  13. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    @cypi2 thanks for the expansive summary, sir.

    @chifromdachi excellent get up. Really enjoy seeing the ghillies out in the wild. Great day as well...catching a beautiful breeze on the streets today!
     
  14. chifromdachi

    chifromdachi Well-Known Member

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    Thank you kindly, my guys.
     
  15. chifromdachi

    chifromdachi Well-Known Member

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    Effin' WOW.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2017
  16. Meyboom

    Meyboom Well-Known Member

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    Those boots look terrific! On a side note, I find it rather funny how some of the world's most expensive and exquisite shoes are packed in a box that looks like it's been put together by an 11 year old with secondhand cardboard and a stapler :)
     
  17. sdfzs

    sdfzs Well-Known Member

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    Interesting coincidence! I had a discussion with Mr Car about th boxes and the special character of them. If I recall correctly they are put together per something silimar to a just-in-time principle due to space constraints. Material stored flat until needed basically. To me it's very fitting that the MTO shoes comes in MTO boxes :D

    We drifted into Carmina in that discussion and they got their boxes shipped in pre-made if I recall correctly, must be massive light packages coming in given their significant production volume
     
  18. chifromdachi

    chifromdachi Well-Known Member

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    Happy Easter from me and The Queen Bee.
     
    2 people like this.
  19. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    What's the detail?
     
  20. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

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    Fur lined. Now you might think, who gets a pair of shearling lined derbies? Obviously you have not been Stockholm. It snowed the other day. :)
     

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