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Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sipang, Jun 20, 2013.

  1. conceptual 4est

    conceptual 4est Well-Known Member

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    Cool, thanks Parker. I just finally got around to scanning through them, and figured I would post up the looks I liked the most, as well as my initial (uneducated) thoughts on what I was looking at, in the context of me and my environment, not fashion as a whole. Also note I'm not just going for cheap or clever stabs at any of these, just evaluating the clothes and the styling and writing what first comes to mind for me.

    That said, this is mostly just catologuing it for myself, but I figured by putting it on SF I could get some discussion going.

    Was also hoping to get some sort of discussion going so I'm glad you jumped in. Agree with you 100% about Dries, Hermes, and Ami. "Raided the Mr. Porter sales bin" is perfect.

    Haven't made it to Margiela yet because I'm just going alphabetically through whatever style.com has and clicking on anything that moderately intrigues me, then writing it here.

    Edit, I'm also including links to encourage people to click through and scan through themselves. Maybe they'll agree with me but maybe they won't :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013
  2. Zeemon

    Zeemon Well-Known Member

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    i would buy hermes and LV clothes if was really baller, i wonder why nobody here buys that stuff
     
  3. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    it's not really in the sw&d wheelhouse. the target audience is older and generally dresses a little more conservatively than most of the posters here. keep in mind that people here who are spending a lot of cash are using it on the so-called artisanal brands right now. i personally don't think the design is always super interesting with hermes and lv. i usually look at the collections and think, 'oh, that's nice,' but then I generally forget about it and move on. though I did really like Kim Jones's first show for lv. there are other luxury brands that people here are into of course, like dior and ysl/slp, but those brands also aim a lot younger (and cooler).

    c4est, unfortunately i suspect that the people who are going to have any real conversation in here are the same handful who are already posting. haha. unless you post a sale code or something shopping related.

    lastly, if anyone knows of a mag/website in the market for an editor or writer feel free to hit me up. currently seeking new employment :spam:
     
  4. KingJulien

    KingJulien Well-Known Member

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    There are maybe 3 or 4 regular posters on SF, if that, who are actually spending enough on clothing to equate to more than one or two Hermes items. Very few posters here are buying more than a handful of items at retail; I think most of the outfits in WAYWT are composed of stuff culled from B&S, ebay, yoox, sales, and a few key pieces bought at near or full retail. It's more interesting that way, IMO.

    As far as I know Hermes doesn't go on sale at all so it's just out of the price range of people here.
     
  5. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Well-Known Member

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    Hermes is always nice to look at come runway time. It's styled perfectly too.
    When I visited the store in Monte Carlo I saw a 60 thousand euro croc/gator jacket. And this was when the euro wasn't in the toilet lol! I can see why some people are out off from the brand and mot people only know them for their leather goods.

    I liked all the silky goodness e.tautz had to offer. They started off as a tailored heritage brand but this is a bit more conceptual dont you think?
     
  6. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Well-Known Member

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    I also was drawn to the Hermes collection. I enjoyed the above reviews, a lot, and am starting to obsess over that purple suede BV jacket.
     
  7. GoldenTribe

    GoldenTribe Well-Known Member

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    Some nice textures at Trussardi

    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    Neat use of fabric borders on suit jacket sleeves & trouser hems at Gucci -- I don't love the colours though
    (and you're screwed if you need to alter anything for length)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I like everything about this look from Miharayasuhiro (the golden hair completes the Grecian/heavenly vibe), but I'm not sure about the individual pieces separated on their own. I can't see any of them on myself, at any rate.

    [​IMG]


    Jonathan Saunders did a neat "polka dot ombre" on a suit that reminds me of something McQueen did with black & white stripes
    [​IMG]


    Bottega Veneta reduced lapels to chalky outlines

    [​IMG]

    though it reminded me of this by Marc Jacobs from a few years ago (first time I've ever thought of him as beating another designer to the punch):
    [​IMG]



    Crazy plaid at Vivienne Westwood -- if not for the buccaneer lapels and high-water pants, I might dream . . .

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013
    4 people like this.
  8. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    Garmento on Pilati: http://garmentozine.com/2013/06/21/considering-stefano-pilati/

    "As a mere adolescent he cut his teeth at Cerruti, where he was reported to have shown a prodigious affinity for fabrics. From there he joined Armani in his men’s design studio; an experience one can only assume steeped him in the house’s codes: a retro classicism accentuated by a rigorous pursuit of modern masculinity. In 1995 he moved on to Prada and Miu Miu, think tanks for progressive fashion design, first heading up fabric R&D before getting involved in the design of Miu Miu’s men’s and women’s collections. He eventually found himself at Yves Saint Laurent, poached by Tom Ford to be lieutenant in the Texan’s campaign to reestablish the house as a vital and potent commercial force.

    In 2004, with Ford and De Sole departing Gucci Group, Pilati found himself in what was then, and perhaps is still now, the most harassed high profile job in fashiondom: creative steward of the legacy of Yves Mathieu Saint Laurent. His take on Saint Laurent glamour and seduction was met with mixed reactions, earning due praise from the major magazines yet still hit by critics and those close to the house’s history. And though at many junctions he managed to stun and at times astound his critics with impossibly elegant and subversive collections brimming with moods and ideas that could propel a whole industry a decade forward with the weight of a single look, his tenure was still met with reluctant acceptance. His departure in 2012 was preceded by several seasons with what must have been defeating and esteem-crushing rumors of his eminent firing.

    To say that Pilati was too intellectually inclined for the modern fashion game of masstige and profit margin hustling is an understatement. And one can even wonder if he channeled the house’s spirit as aptly as he could have (a fondness for color and the exotic were, along with being commercially viable, just some of the codes of the house that Pilati largely ignored). It wouldn’t even be unfair to say that Pilati’s influences, or at least the affections of his designs, skewed more Italian than French, more – let’s say – Gianfranco Ferre than Yves Saint Laurent. But what has been certain is that despite his translation of whichever house’s spirit, Pilati’s output has been profound. He has been a game changer and has introduced so many ideas that have only recently become a part of the contemporary fashion repertoire. He broached minimalism long before Phoebe Philo made it the mode at Celine. He tackled the volumes of Golden Age couture well before Raf Simon’s three part thesis on the matter at Jil Sander. And let’s not forget to thank him for the peplum, a silhouette he proposed with his debut and would reiterate throughout the years and that has now, finally, saturated the market at every tier. His accomplishments are undeniable and the only shame is that the impossible expectations placed on him at Saint Laurent eclipsed them.

    Tomorrow Pilati debuts his first effort for Ermenegildo Zegna. To be overly sentimental it marks a return to his roots, back to the world of fine Italian menswear where he began as a young man. It is only fitting that a man who began at Cerruti and Armani would come back to Zegna, the oldest of the modern Italian menswear establishment. Pilati has always displayed a deft skill at continental style, often enhanced with his own unbridled and bold modernism, it’s a natural fit with immense potential. There has been little noise or hype leading up to the debut but this author can only assume it’s because the clothes won’t need it."
     
    5 people like this.
  9. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    some showroom pics from cdg. ruched pants are crazy!

    [​IMG]
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    Hmmm, I don't know if it even gets that far. Just seems it's not even on anyone's radar to start with (if it were then I imagine there would be a lot of lamenting about price). Could be wrong. Also, I could definitely see people here wanting this jacket from LV

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2013
    3 people like this.
  10. jwjp

    jwjp Well-Known Member

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    Not when you see the back of it...
    [​IMG]
    (Top-right)
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    would have to see it in person but i kinda think that makes it cooler :hide:
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    maybe if it was a Van Halen logo.
     
    3 people like this.
  13. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Well-Known Member

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    Great, drooling over that perfecto now. No way that has the nautical logo on the back, too! :)
     
  14. sipang

    sipang Well-Known Member

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    Hermès is in a league of its own though, would never lump it together with LV & co.

    I wish Margiela had done menswear when he was there, kinda wish Lemaire would do menswear too (no disrespect to Veronique Nichanian).
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. sipang

    sipang Well-Known Member

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    The real problem with LFW though: too many Christophers
     
    8 people like this.
  16. sipang

    sipang Well-Known Member

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    PARIS MENSWEAR 27/06

    ISSEY MIYAKE
    Some nice individual pieces, the craft is there I'm sure but in most cases the aggressive colors pairings, the acid washes and the dip dyes harm more than enhance. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] RICK OWENS Gym goth, do u even lift [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] YOHJI YAMAMOTO Kinda lost me mid-show but then it was all good again. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] DRIES VAN NOTEN As the dude c4 said, the colors are what makes it work. Everything looks a bit faded, washed out (nice sheer/transparency effect) = leisure without seizures[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2013
    6 people like this.
  17. hendrix

    hendrix Well-Known Member

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    I wonder if this season's dries blazers will actually be cut for people who have shoulders
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. sipang

    sipang Well-Known Member

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    Was just looking at the LNCC archive and got a bit sad (no, not the prices) thinking about Raf 2014.

    All things considered though, the last 4 collections or so are more interesting than 2008-2011 slump when Raf seemed bent on dressing up/suiting up his now grown up teenagers for respectable office jobs. I guess it's the start of a new cycle, Raf for a digital age, slick surfaces, all surface, pop prints, industrial design, fun. You can feel a kinship with the earliest collections, the grammar is still the same but the vocabulary has changed (or smthg). It lacks a messiness, a lived-in-ness. The tone is more upbeat, this is no longer about outsiders, the fringes, this is full-on fashion for the fashion tribes and really it couldn't be any other way given Raf's current position in the fashion world. I guess there's honesty in that.
     
    5 people like this.
  19. sipang

    sipang Well-Known Member

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    SLP was truly awful and very good, best SLP collection to date.

    Hopefully, we'll witness a progressive Thom Browneisation (intentional or not) with the next few collections.
     
  20. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Well-Known Member

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    Great contributions sip-san; really well worded.

    Can we have a "Sipang's thoughts on helmut Lang versus raf Simons" segment?
    I've always thought the two were similar in regards to relaxedness and techy fabrics. (Early raf)
    Whatcha think?
     

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