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Sole Welting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Quarantanove, Apr 19, 2012.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    I think I knew that but can't bring to mind a specific source.
     
  2. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    I suspect you're right in every respect. That's always been my understanding of the process as well.
     
  3. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

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    I know it as a "stitch puller". After the out-sole is removed a piece of leather is held on the bottom side of the welt supporting it. The welt is run around the stitch puller. It is crown shaped and the points of the stitch puller are what removes the stitching. But, I agree it is rough on the welt and could weaken the inseam thread.
    It's much safer to hand pick the stitching that remains on top of the welt.

    I don't see how a machine could be developed to remove the staples in a similar fashion. At least the way shoes are factory produced today. The staples are in front of the welt. The only way to get to them would be to remove the welt. I don't see the purpose in doing that unless the welts are shot. Even if they were, what would be the reason to remove them?
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    @Nick V.

    I'm curious if you've noticed certain brand's uppers failing more than others. Of course you don't have to list them here, but I'm curious if you've seen trends among makers.
     
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  5. Zapasman

    Zapasman Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    Lovely and functional staples!!

    Great discussion as always.
     
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  6. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

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    If you don't mind me asking...... What brand shoe is that?
     
  7. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Seen that so many times...on all manner of GYW shoes regardless of price or brand name.
     
  8. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

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    I've seen that as well. Very rare that the staples are that pronounced -or- exposed though.
    I just looked at 14 pair in the shop opened.
    None even close.
     
  9. kbuzz

    kbuzz Well-Known Member

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    Can someone ping me to a post
    Discussing their method of cleaning welt stitching

    I've done a search but don't seem to find anything.

    Maybe Lexol and toothbrush is all one needs?
     
  10. Zapasman

    Zapasman Well-Known Member

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    I posted that shoe in the forum long ago (I am sure DW remembers it). As far as this happens in all GYW brands and the fact that I already mentioned the brand in SF I will say they are JMW . I myself striped them to check construction and send them to Limoges for resoling. I was shocked at the time, not anymore....
     
  11. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

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    Thanks....
    We work on them all the time. I don't recall seeing the staples exposed like that. They are pretty standard high-grades.
    Curious though (and I realize that this wasn't your point). But, did you do anything to expose the staples more -or- did they appear like that when You opened the sole?
     
  12. Zapasman

    Zapasman Well-Known Member

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    Believe it or not, they were like that. I was shocked to see a bunch of brand new twisted staples around the welt, but I am not a profesional striping shoes. I must say that those shoes use excellent leathers: insole, outsole, upper (not sure about heel and counters). Cheers Nick.
     
  13. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

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    I'm not disputing you, but that's unusual.
    They tan their out-soles to insure the consistency that they want. There are a few other components that they make themselves because either they no longer are available and/or what is available does not meet their standards.

    Best Zap.
     
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