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Sole condition and when to repair

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kylelovesyou, Jul 25, 2010.

  1. kylelovesyou

    kylelovesyou Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Chicago
    At what point do I need to take my shoes in to have the soles repaired? For example, this pair is worn to the point where the stitching is becoming exposed (sorry for the low quality pics, it's the best I could do). You can hopefully see that, around the pivot point, the stitches are nearly exposed. Should I just take them in, or can I wear them a bit longer? I've probably worn them <25 times total.
     
  2. juniper

    juniper Well-Known Member

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    I resole them just as a hole starts to appear in the middle of the sole. By this point, about half of the stitches will be entirely worn through and broken (patch on left, patch on right, toe). Seems to work fine.

    Resoling after 25 wearings is nuts.
     
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Exposed threads are a good time to start thinking about a re-sole...when you see them, it a sign you need to keep a weather eye on the sole.

    Don't let a hole wear through. In most cases, if you are alert, you'll see the first signs of the the sole becoming too thin before it wears through...maybe a small crack or some such.

    That's the time to repair them...without delay.
     
  4. SuitMyself

    SuitMyself Well-Known Member

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    Mar 23, 2008

    At what point do I need to take my shoes in to have the soles repaired? For example, this pair is worn to the point where the stitching is becoming exposed (sorry for the low quality pics, it's the best I could do). You can hopefully see that, around the pivot point, the stitches are nearly exposed. Should I just take them in, or can I wear them a bit longer? I've probably worn them <25 times total.


    There's a hole in the soles after only 25 wears? I think you need to buy better quality shoes.

    BTW, what photos? Where are they?
     
  5. kylelovesyou

    kylelovesyou Well-Known Member

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    Jun 1, 2010
    Location:
    Chicago
    I resole them just as a hole starts to appear in the middle of the sole. By this point, about half of the stitches will be entirely worn through and broken (patch on left, patch on right, toe). Seems to work fine.

    Resoling after 25 wearings is nuts.


    I agree, that seems like far too soon, but the wear is what it is. Maybe I have just never owned a decently made pair, but every leather sole I've had has deteriorated so quickly as to make me question my continued support of this type of construction.
     
  6. kylelovesyou

    kylelovesyou Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, not sure why the photos didn't go through. Once more...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Svenn

    Svenn Well-Known Member

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    Pardon my blasphemy, but how much does it cost generally for a cobbler to replace such a leather sole with a rubber one? The whole sole, not just tack on a bottom rubber lining. I was told a one-piece (heel and front fused somewhat) rubber sole would be much more ergonomic.
     
  8. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Well-Known Member

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    At what point do I need to take my shoes in to have the soles repaired? For example, this pair is worn to the point where the stitching is becoming exposed (sorry for the low quality pics, it's the best I could do). You can hopefully see that, around the pivot point, the stitches are nearly exposed. Should I just take them in, or can I wear them a bit longer? I've probably worn them <25 times total.
    Your shoe's sole is glued to the insole, so theres not really much danger in your sole falling off even if the threads get a little worn down in the very tip. AKA I wouldn't worry about that particular shoe falling apart. Replace the sole when it starts to feel spongy and weak.
     
  9. Chim12

    Chim12 Well-Known Member

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    These soles look like they've still got lots of life left in them. Waiting until you see a hole is waiting too long, the soft or spongy feel described above is a good guage and something you should be able to feel if you push your thumb against the sole.
     
  10. srivats

    srivats Well-Known Member

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    Are you sure these shoes are even GY welted? They seem to be blake stitched.
     
  11. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    There is hardly any wear on those soles, not even on the toes, where many people (including yours truly) can wear there shoes down very quickly. As others have said, once the centre of the sole feels soft and spongy, then is the time for new soles.

    BTW, those shoes are Blake-stitched. There is a direct connection to the inside of the shoe. Do not wear them on rainy days, the stitching will act as a wick and transfer the wetness of the pavement right into the shoes and onto your feet.
     
  12. Professor Chaos

    Professor Chaos Well-Known Member

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    There is hardly any wear on those soles, not even on the toes, where many people (including yours truly) can wear there shoes down very quickly. As others have said, once the centre of the sole feels soft and spongy, then is the time for new soles.

    BTW, those shoes are Blake-stitched. There is a direct connection to the inside of the shoe. Do not wear them on rainy days, the stitching will act as a wick and transfer the wetness of the pavement right into the shoes and onto your feet.

    How can you tell they're blake stitched? I'd love to know what to look for.
     
  13. kylelovesyou

    kylelovesyou Well-Known Member

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    I didn't think they were too worn, but I'm not yet well educated in this stuff, so I wasn't sure if the stitch would pose a problem. Thanks for the help!
     
  14. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    How can you tell they're blake stitched? I'd love to know what to look for.

    In a blaked shoe, the stitching runs further away from the edge (about 3/8” = 10 mm) then in a welted shoe where it is maybe 4 - 5 mm The stitches used for Blake construction are also longer then the ones for Goodyear.

    Sometimes you cannot see the stitching as it is ‘channelled’ (hidden under a leather flap). Then look inside the shoe, if you see a row of stitches going round inside the shoe, than it is Blake. The Goodyear stitching goes through the welt, outside of the shoe.

    Hope that helps.
     
  15. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

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    It depends on your gait.
    Some pronate inside or out. If that's the case keep and eye on the inside and outside borders of the soles lateral to the ball of your foot. In some cases that's the first area that thins out do to wear.
     
  16. SuitMyself

    SuitMyself Well-Known Member

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    Mar 23, 2008

    Sorry, not sure why the photos didn't go through. Once more...



    Replace the soles ONLY when you see a hole (or two or more) in the soles. Replace the rubber heel lift, as well, when the rubber portion of the heel has eroded and the leather portion of the heel is about to make contact with the ground.
     

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