1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Skoaktiebolaget – Carmina, John Lobb, Enzo Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin’s, Rubinacci – Offi

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Leaves, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. stmaier

    stmaier Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    541
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    

    Patrik was trying to get me to go with almond country calf for the Alderley...this may be my next purchase...
     
  2. DRAGUI99

    DRAGUI99 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2013
    Location:
    France
    Those boots are incredible! (especially the Galways) Do you know if there will be another MTO of that kind ?
     
  3. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,612
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2010
    Location:
    The Forum
    

    I think it is time again to have a group MTO for Galways... in Edwardian uppers and Almond Country calf for the shaft, flat welt, ALL eyelets, and double leather sole. :)

    Who's with me? :slayer:
     
  4. gordon86

    gordon86 Member

    Messages:
    13
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
     
  5. meister

    meister Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,320
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    

    Leaves what Carmina last is closest to the EG202?
     
  6. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,604
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    
    I would prefer to do them in Antique Brown Grain, because I don't think Carmina does the dark brown Hatch Grain. And I would prefer to evaluate Hatch Grain a little more before we roll out more pairs, I heard AS had problems with their Hatch Grain although I think this was an unfinished version, Carmina finishes they Hatch Grain themselves. We've had no reports of any issues from any of our clients.
    In style or fit? In style it's kinda hard because Carmina does not actually have that very round, blunt last. Maybe Oscar but 202 is more blunt and bulby.
     
  7. Vodking

    Vodking Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    62
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2012
    Interesting news, I was waiting for those AS problems to blow over before placing a hatch grain order with Carmina.
     
  8. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,604
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    I just added Burgol shoe polish to our web shop, I know a lot of you guys have wanted to try this Swiss manufacturer out as a comparison to Saphir and other premium polish brands. What sets Burgol apart from Saphir Medal d'Or (I've used this product for several years) is that I find it easier to get a high shine faster with Burgol.
    [​IMG]



    I've also added our long awaited restock of Carmina belts to the store.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. spicycho

    spicycho Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    253
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2012
    Is the last one cognac?
     
  10. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,604
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    

    I think Carmina calls it Cognac Calf in English which can be confusing so we call it tanned calf. In Spanish it's called Vegano Cuero.
     
  11. SHS

    SHS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    897
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2011
    I see that Bonafè's homepage describes goodyear construction as "Hand stitiching" and "The hand made shoe by definition":

    http://www.enzobonafe.com/english/good-year-workmanship.html

    That is oxymorons as I understand it.

    Do you know if Bonafè is genuinely hand welted - like Vass, St. Crispins, various bespoke etc. - or Goodyear welted?

    Perhaps the term "Goodyear" has become so pervasive as a sign of quality that even hand welted shoes has to be described this way.
     
  12. Frank the sheep

    Frank the sheep Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    863
    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2011
    Location:
    Sweden
    

    They are hand welted it's just the italians that call it goodyear. The reason is that "everyone" knows that goodyear means quality but few know what hand welt means.
     
  13. SHS

    SHS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    897
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2011
    Thanks, I suspected as much.
     
  14. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,604
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    

    They are genuinely hand welted as can be seen in this video I shot in the Bonafé factory. They have a Goodyear production line system, just like EG, G&G or Carmina but where the Goodyear welting machine should be there are two old dudes hand welting. The amount of time that goes into just hand welting is staggering compared to a machine welted shoe. Just as Frank says, the Goodyear welted terminology is used widely in Italy whether the shoes are hand or machine welted, a bit confusing really.

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    2 people like this.
  15. SHS

    SHS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    897
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2011
    Thanks Leaves. Nice video. Great that you are offering these shoes in Scandinavia.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014
  16. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,333
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2012
    Location:
    Oakville, Ontario, CANADA
    There's something wonderfully appropriate about hand welting being done by "two old dudes". [​IMG]
     
  17. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,962
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
    Location:
    English Flower Garden
    That's a great vid, thanks for posting that :nodding:
     
  18. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,454
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2012
    Just wanted to thank the SkoAB team for helping me with Carmina/G&G size comparison and for pointing me in the right direction concerning a Carmina model they've stocked preciously.

    Didn't place an order at their website this time as they had run out of the model and size I was looking for, but will pay a visit to the store in Stockholm late January. I'm looking for colors close to Vass Antique Cognac and/or Oxblood and hope to find what I'm looking for at SkoAB.

    Thanks once again.
     
  19. dlind

    dlind Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    235
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Location:
    London
    How is the sole attached to the welt? by machine or hand? Obviously the video shows the welt being attached to the insole/uppers but is the sole attached by hand as well?
     
  20. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,604
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    Off to Pitti, back next weekend!
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by