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Shoe Toe 101

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by steelmd, Jan 26, 2013.

  1. steelmd

    steelmd Member

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    Hi all
    I am planning to have a half dozen shoes made. I like the toes a little geometric, not pointed or 'English' but I am seriously deficient in a descriptive vocabulary. Google only compounded my misery.
    Does anyone know of any links that aggregate shoe toe shapes? (Of course I don't mean captoe/wingtip, etc.
     
  2. ajmanouk

    ajmanouk Well-Known Member

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    Dec 13, 2010
    Sorry, you are having 6 bespoke shoes made? I imagine that would cost you quite a bit...it might be more advised to have them made one at a time.
     
  3. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    In A Gadda Da Vida, Baby!
    Do you mean "chisel toe?"

    [​IMG]
     
  4. steelmd

    steelmd Member

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    That's one of them!
     
  5. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

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    Might want to do a bit more research before you dive right into 6 bespoke pairs of shoes. What makers are you considering?
     
  6. steelmd

    steelmd Member

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    I am not using the usual English or Italians. More likely Far East and the Czech Republic
     
  7. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

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    Good luck to you. So you will try a variety of makers and see which makes a shoe that fits you best?
     
  8. steelmd

    steelmd Member

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    Vass is the best known of the bunch. I know it's going to be hit or miss so my expectations are not too high
     
  9. Jim Profit

    Jim Profit Well-Known Member

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    This pic is a good starting point

    [​IMG]
     
  10. steelmd

    steelmd Member

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    Thanks
    It seems the prevailing wisdom is that it's insane to order more than 2 pairs at a time?
     
  11. Jim Profit

    Jim Profit Well-Known Member

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    If you going with Vass as your bespoke shoemaker i dont see any problem with ordering 6 pair.
     
  12. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

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    Well, Vass is neither far eastern or Czech. If you are going to visit them versus doing it via Internet you have the ability to try various lasts to see which fits you best. I would also say to take a look at the traditional lasts instead of just the F, U and K.
     
  13. steelmd

    steelmd Member

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    Thanks
    I guess Vass is Hungarian?
     
  14. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

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    If you are doing true bespoke with one maker you would probably be smart to have one pair done and dial in the fit before ordering another pair. Despite the fact that bespoke is based on your measurements, often adjustments are required to refine the fit.

    If you are going with several makers then order one from each. It will be a grand experiment and you will have the ability to refine the fit of each prior to ordering more.
     
  15. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

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    If it was their bespoke and not their MTO, I would not want to order 6 different shoes off measurements with no fittings and then have to deal with adjustments or remakes on all or some of them. We are all aware of some variation in Vass MTO makeups given their hand made operations. You also gave to take into considerarion the difference in fit between a balmoral and a derby. think it more prudent to do a balmoral and if you were feeling lucky a derby and dial in those fits over going for 6 pairs right off the hop.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013
  16. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

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    I might also suggest Maftei in Vienna. Bespoke starts around €1000 with a test shoe and refinement then the finished shoe with more adjustments to get the fit bang on. They are also very open to doing whatever toe you might like.
     
  17. steelmd

    steelmd Member

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    Thanks. My shoe IQ has exponentially increased today.
    Any picture illustrations of Balmoral & Servy & anything else?
     
  18. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    No. It is perfectly fine to order 20 pairs at once. But most makers will first make one pair to make sure it fits before making the rest of the shoes.

    Loafers will require a different last than regular shoes, just FYI.
     
  19. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

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    A balmoral or oxford has closed lacing. A derby or blucher -sorry for mistyping servy - has open lacing.
     
  20. Jim Profit

    Jim Profit Well-Known Member

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    I was just talking about bespoke and of course you do measurements on one shoe first, even if you order 6 pairs att the same time and use that as a master pattern.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013

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