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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. jdanielca

    jdanielca Well-Known Member

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    Where do people post pics of what their soles look like after a while
     
  2. claes500

    claes500 Well-Known Member

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    Stockholm, Sweden
    

    Right here!

    [​IMG]

    Before

    [​IMG]

    After!

    Although for full disclosure these are two different Decos, one 6 months younger than the other
     
  3. claes500

    claes500 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you both!

    It is too soon to tell how they feel compared to my G&Gs but stylewise I think they look great and the heel is tight and very comfortable but a few more miles are needed for a more thorough comparison
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2013
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    I have both, and I must say I like the AC last more. G&G can look goofy sometimes. AC is always subtle, and they seem to take less time to break in.
     
  5. claes500

    claes500 Well-Known Member

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    Stockholm, Sweden
    

    Sorry for the mess behind the shoes, doing some recycling :)
     
  6. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Well-Known Member

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    Saint Crispin's [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  7. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Truly amazing shoes! The Crockett & Jones-factory really make a great job on the AC-series. Do you know if it is the Ilcea Radica-leather that they use, or is it another similar tanned one?
     
  8. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    I fear that it is from another source. It is not what JL uses.

    I always question why C&J don't have their own 'Anthony Cleverley' line.
     
  9. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Okay. It do look gorgeous too though, and if they use it for the AC-range it will most likely be of very good quality.

    Yeah I know, it would be great to have a C&J line that competed with the top tiers on the RTW-market. I've actually been talking with some "insiders" about it, and for the moment C&J have no plans to introduce a new own top line, unfortunately. Apparently the main problem is that they are having real trouble getting enough good material just for the AC-range, and at the same time they struggle to keep up with the continuesly high demand of their own lines. Right now they can't produce anything more than they do.

    They tried to buy the Alfred Sargent factory when they went bankrupt the last time the other year, but since the Turks beat them to it they still can't make more shoes than they do.

    On that matter though I'd rather have Alfred Sargent and their fine handgrade and exclusive line on the market, instead of having it turned into a C&J factory filial. We need the diversety of different brands and minds.
     
  10. twinpeaks

    twinpeaks Active Member

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    FAIK EG does AC for GC

    But who are these Turks you speak of regarding AS?
     
  11. mcarthur

    mcarthur Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    ravello lhs
    argyles otc
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2013
  12. Roguls

    Roguls Well-Known Member

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    Wow. Most excellent.
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Are you sure about that? I recall Tom Park saying that is not true (presuming he is a Cleverley insider)
     
  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    Na, when I wear my AC, I can tell the weak arch stiffer that EG has is missing. It is likely that the shoe is made by Crockett and Jones.
    Apparently, the upper they use will be the same as their bespoke operation.
     
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. Considering that C&J makes them, how much of the AC price tag do you think comes from using higher quality leather?
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  16. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    If the assessment is based on their retail price with VAT, the calf skin they use are very refine, the heel treatment is one of the best for RTW (still far from bespoke), and the sleek last that is rather similar to the U last from Vass, but slightly narrower in the ball area. The AC range is also 9.5 handmade MTO, with the welt only machine stitched.

    Overall, value is in the eye of beholder, but I do think the price does reflect its quality, in comparison I am not a fan of G&G deco, in the same sort of price range.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  17. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I guess those fancy shoe trees are also included in the price.

    Is the AC last based on an actual Anthony Cleverley design from the past? I recall Aubercy having some models based on old Anthony shoes.
     
  18. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Alfred Sargent is owned by some guys from Turkey, who took over after the last bankruptcy. Still Paul Sargent, Chay Cooper and co that run things though, just different owners.


    AFAIK the majority of the work on the AC shoes are made in the C&J factory, but with more handwork (as Add911_11 mentions) than on C&J handgrade and with superior materials, and a slower process with high focus on details. Cleverley people is also supervising the process and all shoes go through the cleverly workshop for finish and inspection.
     
  19. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    I am pretty sure they are based on the bespoke models, the shape looks very similar to my chisel toe GC bespoke models.


    Thanks for the insight.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  20. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    I can easily see C&J doing something similar (high end RTW) with their very own Dmitri supervising and inspecting...but as you implied earlier, C&J seems quite happy with how things are going right now....
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013

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