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Shirting Fabric- Is Acorn still the best bet?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by 1969, May 20, 2010.

  1. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    Carl, I just today received sample books from James of both the Classic and the Acorn line as well as some individual samples as I am looking for dress stripe fabrics at the moment.
    I think all of them - King, Grange, Grasmere, Windsor and Imperial - are lovely, no inconsistency visible to me.
    Of course your eyes and hands are much more experienced than mine.
    Mind to share exactly what was wrong with the fabrics your customer brought to you?
    Any chance of the customer having bought fake fabric or one that has been stored improperly?
    To me King and Grange seem like nice fabrics I'd love to have shirts made from.
     
  2. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    NYC
    I handle fabric all day long.
    I will give you my impression on only what has passed through my hands

    Burnside good fabric

    Grange what I have handled recently has a very dry finish.
    which is different from a natural finish without resins
    I am not a huge fan of the highly resined finishes found on fabrics from Soktas, but Grange does not feel good in my hand.
    One customer had shrinkage issues with one of the fabrics. I made several shirts from Grange for him(he supplied the fabric).
    It feels as if the yarn counts are not as tight as what I have seen from some of the Indian Mills.

    Grasmere is very good.

    Hampton is not good. feels cheap. Most likely made in china.

    Imperial this is the worst excuse for 170/2 I have ever felt.

    Kendal I like this. and would use this.

    King also has a dry finish. and King AQ is 2x1 not 2x2. it is OK, but nothing special. same thoughts as Grange

    Monarch is ok I can import its equivalent from India for less then half the price

    pinpoint PV that I made for someone is 2x1 not 2x2

    Windsor feels thin for 140/2. the construction is not very dense.

    Zephyr is good

    Not every fabric I have in stock is amazing, but I wont attempt to sell it as something it isn't
    I am not shy to admit which fabrics come from the better Indian mills.


    There are only a few mills left producing 100% of their fabric in Europe I guess the Czech republic is included.



    this rant is not about Acorn selling to the general public.
    just that the consumer should know what they are buying.

    none is fake. all was bought directly from acorn.
    I have 40 year old fabrics that are still in perfect shape(well the whites are not so white anymore)
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2013
  3. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    Carl, you don't need to justify your opinion.
    I have always found you to be a stand-up guy that is not afraid of telling his, sometimes unpopular, opinion, but very justified so.
    I have never felt you were sound about your opinion to gain business from it but because you have an honest interest in educating us laymen, which I appreciate highly.

    I am disappointed I seem yet to know very little about fabrics, as I have found the swatches I received today to be nice and am afraid they are no different from what you have seen and felt.
    From the five qualities I received dress stripes of, I would have gone with King CD and Grange CC as I think they are the sweet spot between design, durability, feel and price for me.
    I simply have not felt much of a difference in the swatches of 100, 160 and 170 qualities and tend to like heavier fabrics anyways as I think I have learned they are less prone to wrinkling and more durable.
    Now that you tell me both King as well as Grange feel like chemicals were used at their finishing I am not certain if I should proceed ordering.
    Sadly I have found it suprisingly dificult to find dress stripes in shades of blue that I like and I am about as conservative as it gets in terms of dress shirts as I am only looking for white, sky blue and dress stripes in sky and navy and Acorn offers perfect examples of those in above mentioned qualities as well as Monarch for solids.

    Any mill you can suggest to me or even the possibility to purchase fabric in described design but in a quality you aprove of from you directly?
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2013
  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    the Grange and king feel as if they have not been finished properly.

    I just received a new swatch book with fabric from Testa
    the 100/2 feel solidly constructed. smooth with out feeling slick.

    I will sell fabric, but only if someone comes to my shop.
    I do not know of a single fabric mill that sells to individuals.
    to much work to cut single lengths.

    Also be careful of fabric from Ringhart. Beautiful designs.. but.......
     
  5. Coburn

    Coburn Well-Known Member

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    Seattle
    

    Good to see a review from an expert.

    What fabrics do you recommend in the approximate price range of Acorn? (For broadcloth dress shirts -- white and light blue)
     
  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    hopefully your shirtmaker will be able to guide you.

    I make fun of Monti of "Italy" but their quality is consistently good.

    Canclini is being produced in China, from what i have heard from several sources.

    Grandi and Rubenelli is excellent but more expensive
    Thomas mason is usually consistent but far from perfect.

    the indian mills I buy from, turn out a quality product.
     
  7. hymo

    hymo Well-Known Member

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    If I was Acorn, I'd be quite concerned.

    Their stalwart quality, the Grange, is easily exceeded in quality by any number of Indian imports at a fraction the price. Their higher qualities are all uncompetitve against the Italians.

    On the design front, they have zero talent.

    Acorn's strength is their direct-to-consumer model, no minimum orders, and expansive collection.
     
  8. Shinystuffbuyer

    Shinystuffbuyer Well-Known Member

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    Garment state
    <First post alert!>

    I am a lurker on this forum, never registered. However, I finally decided to ask the one question that's been on my mind for some time now. Sorry to revive a fairly old thread.

    ShirtMaven, you say "the indian mills I buy from, turn out a quality product." For some of us, who are based out of India, that may be a great option. If it's not a trade secret, could you please share which Indian mills are good from your experience?

    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2014

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