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SF "Holy Grail" Shoe

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by PhiloVance, Aug 13, 2010.

  1. lasbar

    lasbar Well-Known Member

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    [
    The wholecut derives is beauty from the purity of it's design, from it's simplicity.[/quote]

    George, you're my shoe soulmate...

    I love wholecut...Pure and simple elegance...
     
  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    sorry, i really don't know what you are talking about.. ...again.

    pls take care of your own things and stop interpreting. period. i'm really pissed...


    I’m not the only one to think that you are abusing this forum shamelessly for your little mail-order business,

    http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.p...&postcount=252

    But then, how wicked of us to presume financial considerations would ever guide you postings.

    Are you sure that's a fake seam? It looks real enough to me. I see a line right down the middle that is so typical of two pieces of leather being joined together that I am not convinced it is either a faux seam nor am convinced that it is a whole cut…..The shark shoe, as well as the other (box calf?), look to me like they are seamed up the forepart. If so, they are not whole cuts and in fact, a forepart seamed shoe may be the easiest and cheapest style to make.

    It is not a ‘faux’ seam, the design is a half-cut (if that word exists). Two side pieces get sewn by machine from the inside, then a raised hand-stitched seam is placed on the outside, forming a ridge, stopping at the vamp point.. (The advantage for the shoemaker, there is no need to ‘block’ or ‘crimp' the uppers.)

    the tree bark looking leather is "shark skin"

    One shoe is Llama, the other one is shark.

    But we shouldn't forget the shoes shown above are bespoke shoes and therefor reflect the personal taste of the owner, not necessarily of the maker.[

    And as I said, I have seen shoes made by Scheer, which were very much resembling the ones fritzl posted here. So it's wrong that Scheer and fritzl have a totally different aesthetic. It all comes down to what the individual client of a Bespoke maker wants, right?


    That might have been the case when Grandpa Scheer was still in charge. Markus tries his utmost to take the firm stylistically out of that provinciality and re-enter the international main stream. As ‘the.chikor’ has previously posted, Maftei junior tries to do the same, but feels inhibited and frustrated by the innate conservatism of his Austro/German clientele. I only posted the two pictures to demonstrate a low- and a high-placed vamp point. I cannot see many clients discussing a vamp point. Just like the pocket placing on a coat, it can make all the difference whether the coat makes you look short- or long-legged.

    As Gustav Mahler once famously remarked: “Tradition ist Schlamperei” (tradition is sloppiness‘), it is the laziness to re-visit and to re-think why you are doing things the way you do them: “we’ve always done it like that, it’s tradition.”
     
  3. Sebastian

    Sebastian Well-Known Member

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    That might have been the case when Grandpa Scheer was still in charge. Markus tries his utmost to take the firm stylistically out of that provinciality and re-enter the international main stream. As ‘the.chikor’ has previously posted, Maftei junior tries to do the same, but feels inhibited and frustrated by the innate conservatism of his Austro/German clientele. I only posted the two pictures to demonstrate a low- and a high-placed vamp point. I cannot see many clients discussing a vamp point. Just like the pocket placing on a coat, it can make all the difference whether the coat makes you look short- or long-legged. As Gustav Mahler once famously remarked: “Tradition ist Schlamperei” (tradition is sloppiness‘), it is the laziness to re-visit and to re-think why you are doing things the way you do them: “we’ve always done it like that, it’s tradition.”
    The shoes I was talking about were made during the last few years (with Markus Scheer in charge) and have very traditional Austrian aesthetic, very close to what fritzl is promoting here. Which doesn't mean Markus doesn't try to take the firm to international sleekness, just sayin he is not always successful in doing so. Just wanted to clearify, that shoes like the ones fritzl posts here are still made in Austrian high class shoemaking, even at Scheer's workshop, not only in the hungarian province. I think your posting was leading to a wrong conclusion regarding that.
     
  4. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    It is not a "˜faux' seam, the design is a half-cut (if that word exists). Two side pieces get sewn by machine from the inside, then a raised hand-stitched seam is placed on the outside, forming a ridge, stopping at the vamp point.. (The advantage for the shoemaker, there is no need to "˜block' or "˜crimp' the uppers.)
    Bengal, Thank you. That's what I thought...and thought I was implying in my post. It was George and Sebastian who first (mis)-identified it as a "faux" or fake seam. Photos can be deceiving but as I said I had my doubts. I have been told, and seen the pattern, that whole cuts can be made without blocking. But I've always blocked them, myself. As I said, "half cut" is one of the easiest and cheapest style of shoe to make...what we use to proof patterns.
     
  5. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    The shoes I was talking about were made during the last few years (with Markus Scheer in charge) and have very traditional Austrian aesthetic, very close to what fritzl is promoting here.

    Which doesn't mean Markus doesn't try to take the firm to international sleekness, just sayin he is not always successful in doing so.


    i don't like "promoting" in the context. it's more bringing different aspects to the table, anyway.

    but what's international sleekness?
     
  6. Bad Monkey

    Bad Monkey Member

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    Uncle Freddy is not dead
    i don't like "promoting" in the context. it's more bringing different aspects to the table, anyway.

    but what's international sleekness?


    I am still looking for the perfect punchcap.
     
  7. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    This thread is making me start refinancing things.
     
  8. Edge89

    Edge89 Active Member

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    these are my grail shoes G&G bespoke "seamless whole cut"

    [​IMG]
    [/quote]

    Those are beautiful.
     
  9. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    I'm not the only one to think that you are abusing this forum shamelessly for your little mail-order business,

    http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.p...&postcount=252

    But then, how wicked of us to presume financial considerations would ever guide you postings.


    cute.

    i met him in person. so i see his effort more as tool to challenge me. i know how to take it. you don't have to worry.

    but i really appreciate the manner how you take care of my mental state. extraordinary - five stars.

    thank you.
     
  10. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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  11. jamesbond

    jamesbond Well-Known Member

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    i don't like "promoting" in the context. it's more bringing different aspects to the table, anyway.
    but what's international sleekness?


    Cute play on words. [​IMG]
     
  12. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    lolz i feel you!

    bring this back on track what happens once you you have your grail shoes? is their the "ultimate" grail shoes??

    if yes, then i have mine on order again with G&G
     
  13. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    lolz i feel you!

    bring this back on track what happens once you you have your grail shoes? is their the "ultimate" grail shoes??

    if yes, then i have mine on order again with G&G


    OK, back on track, luk....

    Deets on something that cannot be better than your seamless wholecuts? I find it impossible to top, but shock me! Seamless croc wholecuts? [​IMG]
     
  14. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    OK, back on track, luk....

    Deets on something that cannot be better than your seamless wholecuts? I find it impossible to top, but shock me! Seamless croc wholecuts? [​IMG]


    haha not sure if that would be possible and at the price of what croc esp baby croc is per skin i would not like to as Tony to try it just yet haha

    but is it on the seemless front, but even harder to cut the just a simple wholecut, should be ready before the years out (i hope) i dont want to reveal much more
     
  15. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    i dont want to reveal much more

    booo!
     
  16. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    booo!

    lol, not fun if i tell all now plus i dont what tobe DTO'ed
     
  17. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    lolz i feel you!

    thank you mates...

    bring this back on track...

    trust me, i'm pretty much "bored" of this useless discussions...

    imo, everyone has his grail shoe, if you want to name it this way.

    probably mine will be the norweger in salmon from christian hofstätter.
     

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