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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by AriGold, Oct 4, 2012.

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  1. Dynamics

    Dynamics Well-Known Member

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    Appreciated. Did you go with your natural size, or go up?
     
  2. kieran84

    kieran84 Well-Known Member

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    I believe the fit of some of the leathers and other jackets that have become part of permanent collection have been modified based on customer feedback. I know for myself at least, several jackets from SS13 were so short as to be unwearable. For example, I remember that the mandarin collar denim jacket was extremely short on me in both length and sleeve length in size medium, and I'm only 6 foot 1. The body was a little on the slim side too, and I take 28-29 in jeans, so it's not surprising that some customers were having problems with sizing.

    With jeans I only really have experience with the 15.5 cm MIJ indigo and plain black skinny jeans. I have all seasons from SS13 to AW14, and I can't really see any difference in quality across any of them. There is a difference in the fit of the SS14 and AW14 versions relative to the previous models though; I actually laid brand new pairs of SS14 and AW14 MIJ 15.5s on top of some brand new AW13 ones, and the waist and rise is exactly the same, but the thigh is cut looser in the later models, and the lower leg is also ever so slightly looser. This may be based on customer feedback, but I suspect that it is deliberate cutting; by cutting the thighs larger, the jeans are able to be pulled up slightly higher and sit higher on the waist (as seen on the runway), without actually making them with a longer rise. I know each of my pairs fit pretty much exactly the same on me as they do on the models wearing them in their respective seasons. Personally I like both styles.

    As for leather quality and other fabrics, I agree there have been changes. The London 20 cropped jodhpur from this season, is made from a different leather to the previous model. The code is still AQS00, but the leather is definitely different, and in my opinion not as nice. It is still nice though, and I'm sure it will age quite nicely, but it is definitely slightly inferior to the previous model. I also agree on the varsity jackets, and I also believe the fit has been made boxier on those too (I remember trying one on AW13 and being tempted, but when I tried this season's version, I took it off immediately without even needing to consider it as it looked pretty awful on me in the same size (it's possible that I'm mistaken though as I can't remember the AW13 version's fit very well now)).

    Other issues I've noticed are little mistakes in cutting such as asymmetrical shoulder seams on shirts, with one being noticeably higher when worn. This wasn't the case with any of the shirts I have from SS13 and AW13, but this season I bought the pique plastron black tux shirt from the website and one shoulder seam was significantly higher than the other. I thought it may have been my body, so I checked my older shirts, but they were pretty much perfectly symmetrical, so I sent one back and re-ordered, and it was the same on the next one that arrived. Also had to send back a 2 button blazer because the buttons were an inch or so to the side of my belly button, a peacoat because one shoulder had a curve in the edge making one look wider than the other (managed to get a better one from the store), and a striped t-shirt because the stripes were not horizontal (luckily the next one that arrived was perfect).

    All that being said, I'm still happy to stick with the brand as nothing else even comes close in terms of style and cutting, and quality and materials are on the whole pretty good.
     
  3. neonrider

    neonrider Well-Known Member

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    i think modifying designs based on customer feedback leads to j crew land pretty quickly. witness how badly the L01 is selling now...it used to sell out instantly, now you can buy one in your size all over the place. not many people want it, because now it fits not that differently from a typical sized down schott perfecto.

    i'm 6 feet, have all the ss13 (and fw14) leathers, and sure, they're cropped, and super super skinny. but that's exactly the way the campaign shot them and slimane obviously designed them. not to fit the average schmuck who spends five hours a day at the gym.

    if you want a longer jacket, maybe you should buy something trendy, like rick owens.

    i don't think the jeans problems are by design. the fits are way too far off and variable to be anything other than quality control issues. the sizing is all over the place, the denim quality is highly variable, the distressing rarely turns out like the samples.

    the quality of production that kerning uses isn't the greatest, and slimane's designs are pretty exacting. their factory probably just isn't used to this kind of precision.

    i'm sure this isn't an issue for many of you, who will likely move on to the next bandwagon as soon as it's cool. fine, that's part of fashion. but for those of us who appreciate the clothes because of the fit and precision, it's obvious and very noticeable.

    for example, most of you don't appear to have even noticed the giant seam in the middle of the new wyatt boots. are the wyatt boots cool? sure. is a giant seam suddenly appearing in the middle of a (twelve hundred dollar) shoe good production? nope.

    i could care less how "cool" this stuff is. i like it because there is genius in it. but i would like to be able buy stuff season after season and not have to guess sizes, finishes, proportions.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2014
    2 people like this.
  4. kieran84

    kieran84 Well-Known Member

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    I tend to agree, and it's a real shame that things are getting worse (there were still sizing and quality issues during the first two seasons on several items, particularly shoes). Fit on the runway has been much boxier for the last couple of seasons though, so maybe some of the change is to reflect that. Still not really a reason to adjust the fit of classic items that were already selling well. Strangely some t-shirts seem smaller this season, with shorter sleeves relative to those I have from SS13 and AW13 in the same size. Knitwear on the other hand seems slightly bigger. For example the extra fine merino knits that were very slim for AW13 now look to be quite a regular fit judging by barneys pictures.

    With jeans the made in Japan ones are better (though still not perfect), but I would agree that the made in Italy washes are pretty hit or miss (for example I really wanted the bleached jeans from SS14 that LVR had (slightly different to the ones SLP stores had here and online), but unfortunately the knees were so stretched out from the distressing process that they were unwearable (usually one on each pair was okay and the other too stretched out), and after ordering 3 different pairs I gave up on trying to find one that would be passable.

    Some other problems I forgot to mention are twisted seams on jeans (nearly every pair I have) and on t-shirts (it's hit or miss on any made from any kind of fabric that is a little more difficult to work with than plain cotton). It's not a big deal to me, but never really had it with DH (I do however remember several quality issues with outerwear which began around AW 2006, for example that's when buttons started falling off all over the place). Also why so many damaged chains with SLP (why have them on at all if they are incapable of sewing them on without damaging them)?

    Also forgot to mention that the top button hole has started to split at the point where the button comes out when being undone on one of my pleated yves collar shirts. This shirt still has tags on and has never even been worn because I haven't yet decided how much to adjust the fit by ! (luckily I have a few though because I like it so much).
     
  5. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Well-Known Member

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    DH stuff on the whole seems to have better overall quality and QC still.
     
  6. ExAngel

    ExAngel Well-Known Member

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    DH was doing some pretty shitty stuff though for a while. It wasn't until SLP came out that they started focusing on quality, putting out fewer items and limiting availability and sales as well as being more subtle about marketing. The difference in luxe and quality you get from going into a DH boutique over SLP is pretty massive. SLP feels like Top Shop compared to DH.
     
  7. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Well-Known Member

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    I agree with this. I remember seeing a Dior polo Made in Turkey a few years ago, but now (post SLP) it's all super luxe, much better quality and made in Italy or France.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2014
  8. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Well-Known Member

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    This is true I suppose. They're around the corner from each other here in SF so I stop by both relatively frequently (the place where I get my haircut is exactly in between). The biggest differences I've seen have been in the footwear and knitwear, but I haven't really looked too closely at the leathers as I feel like I have enough.
     
  9. ExAngel

    ExAngel Well-Known Member

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    Must be a nice haircut place lol.

    I think the DH leathers are better quality, but unfortunately I find them to be too delicate for casual wear. A lot of the DH leathers are surprisingly overpriced though because they are doing smaller production runs and using more exotic materials.

    Which reminds me, I recently tried on an Hermes leather baseball jacket and thought the SA said 22 as in $2200 and got a pretty big shock when it was $22,000. Sure the leather was very nice, supple, and the hand crafted detail of sanding the leather down by hand to give a gradient look was great, but how many times would you wear something like that even if you had the money?
     
  10. bawlin

    bawlin Well-Known Member

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    I would be more shocked if Hermes offered a leather for $2,200 to be honest.

    Pics would have been nice :satisfied:
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. ExAngel

    ExAngel Well-Known Member

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    This is true but it was thin like a shirt and so basic. from afar it looked like it'd be the hender scheme of jackets. I think only 40 were produced. I should have taken a pic.
     
  12. winston86dit

    winston86dit Well-Known Member

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    I never found Saint Laurent gear to be that well made even from the start, at least not mind-blowingly so. For most, I would assume buying into Hedi's Saint Laurent world is more about the fit, look, design, and energy than it is the craftsmanship. To assume the clothes are long-lasting in comparison to the price is a bit much and that's really in regards to most high fashion brands.
    One thing is for sure though, Hedi does an excellent job at creating his world and making sure everything is extremely cohesive. And if you can afford it and you appreciate the brand/designer/clothing then odd stitching and having to re-size on some things shouldn't matter all too much.


    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  13. ExAngel

    ExAngel Well-Known Member

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    Hedi might have been an innovator 10 years ago but these days he's merely merged Kooples and celebrity hipster fashion for use in his editorials. His runway styling might seem cohesive, but the items SLP as a brand is pumping out left and right is anything but.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Zack G

    Zack G Member

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    Los Angeles CA,
    i went with my natural size 30, both fit perfectly comfortabl
     
  15. dr1248

    dr1248 Well-Known Member

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    Feb 25, 2014
    Hi,

    I need some advise on a potential purchase. A friend of mine is selling a brand new Saint Laurent Sneakers for $300. Do you think this is a good / great deal ? how much would be considered a great deal?

    Thank you

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. needhelp123

    needhelp123 Well-Known Member

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    They are a good shoe i have them, looks good with rock star look. I think back then they were around 690USD or something, so you are saving quite a bit, its a good price for new condition, go ahead if you like them.

    I suggest size down .5, they are a tiny bit roomy if you go TTS
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2014
  17. youwhat

    youwhat Well-Known Member

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    no self respecting 'rock star' (or anyone with anything about them for that matter) would wear black plain trainers with shiny diamond bits on the side lol
     
  18. CL628

    CL628 Member

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    MA
    Does anybody know what the price of the F/W 14' Destroyed Jeans (blue) was in SLP's stores?

    Thanks
     
  19. jaco87

    jaco87 Well-Known Member

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    May 30, 2014
    any one had experience with their tan suede boots and rain, i have the ankle jodhpurs in tan, and live in the UK. don't want to ruin them in the rain, but don't want to keep them in all winter as well? any opinions/suggestions.....also i have sprayed them with protectant.
     
  20. ExAngel

    ExAngel Well-Known Member

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    Just ask yourself, WWPDD*?

    *What would Pete Doherty Do?
     

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