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Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montauk, Mar 13, 2013.

  1. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    ^
    Fantastic, thank you...
     
  2. PASstudy

    PASstudy Well-Known Member

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    So....what ever happened to your three-suit commission? Are any of the pictures you mentioned forthcoming? Interested to see the outcome, hope it turned out well for you.
     
  3. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    We have been meaning to do a shoot on those. Both of us have been very busy, especially since BAO1 started his new job.
    Not exactly top priority! Maybe when I get back from London and himself from Europe.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Collar looks loose on right side.

    Sleeve pitch is off or back sleeve balance is too long.

    Some waviness in upper sleeve area when looking head on.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2014
  5. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your feedback, will take a look at that when the client returns for his final check fit. Would agree that the neck may need to be crookend, as for the others not sure I agree. This is usually four to six weeks after final delivery, to allow the suit to settle. I believe RA also offers this service.
    In this case the client has informed me he has lost so much weight the suit needs to be reduced. So I need to take the sleeves off, collar off, remove the back to reduce the forepart sides and back sides.
    Perfection takes it's time.
     
  6. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    This guy also had a mass of tissue on his back neck right side, when I pointed it out to him he was unaware of its existence. Put some extra fullness in the back blade area and released the neck an 1/8" on that side, to allow for it. Not sure if the coat is sitting off on that side or whether his head is turned slightly.

    Compared to what I have seen on this site, on the row and else where, it is a very clean coat.
    Am always striving for perfection and appreciate your option and thank you for taking the time to comment.
     
  7. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    One of the reasons I almost never comment in the fit thread is that cameras can cause such massive distortion from one side to the other as to make the fit unreadable- the asymmetry that we see is clearly one of these instances. While no garment is perfect and we could find nits to pick on every single garment ever created, this garment is better than some of the things that we have seen from much more illustrious houses. Keep posting, Rory.
     
    7 people like this.
  8. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    Unrelated, but I recently saw this nice clip on Rory in a segment The Luxury Channel did on Henry Poole. I hope Rory doesn't mind me posting it here.

     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2014
  9. EFBenson

    EFBenson Well-Known Member

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    nice to see a real life customer wearing a tie tied with as big a knot as seen in the windows of shops on the Row!
     
  10. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Just now seeing this for the first time, thanks for posting. Very nice, and look forward to seeing more examples.
     
  11. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Is a roped shoulder a must for you?
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Wouldn't you agree that the collar looks loose on the right side? I don't think the camera is playing tricks in that respect.

    While I agree that photos can throw things askew, there are still certain things you can tell by looking at them. Also, in this case, it was the tailor that chose the photos to post. It is not unfair to assume he is showing his work in a light that he feels is reasonably accurate. If he didn't want anyone to nitpick collar fit, he could have picked a photo where it doesn't look like there is a problem with it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  13. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    Then what's his excuse?

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    He has a loose collar, too. No excuse, other than that he says he likes his collars loose. I would never tell anybody that it is correct.
     
  15. Patrick R

    Patrick R Well-Known Member

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    Nothing about the photos convey the sense that it was a photo shoot intended to show a perfectly finished garment.
     
  16. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    There is a similarity in both Mariano and Rory's client. Mariano is supporting himself, lifting up on his left arm and when you lift the shoulder the collar will pull away.

    The client in question here looks like he is about to move his right arm outward, that would have the same effect and lift the collar away. If the collar stands up on it's own when the client is relaxed then the shoulder may be sloped too much. They are scheduled to make adjustments after the suit has been worn.

    From one static photo it is hard to discern what is permanent or a reflection of some movement when the photo was taken.

    The sleeves look fine. Maybe a little dry in back but nothing that needs correcting.

    There is no way the front is longer on one side. The left front is torquing from stress and lifting away from the body. The camera angle distorts this to look longer. You can see how the front is warped and concave instead of convex. Client doesn't look like he is very relaxed and may be standing a bit stiff.
     
    4 people like this.
  17. Veremund

    Veremund Well-Known Member

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    +1. Lighten up people. He's not making scuba suits.
     
  18. carpu65

    carpu65 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    This is a Rory Duffy double breasted.
    Well i not doubt his manual skill...but the silhouette of this DB is ugly,
    5000$ for this?
     
  19. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    How can you tell a silhouette from that 3/4th angle shot? :confused:

    Do you at least have a straight on shot for consideration?
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2014
  20. carpu65

    carpu65 Well-Known Member

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    Because i'm not blind.
    The lapels are too much narrow,the button stance is too much close; even inconsistent !
    The flap pockets are weird.
    Yes,of course,is matter of taste, and if one want wear like Lord Brett Sinclair in 1970,is fine for me.
    [​IMG]
    (i now,i now,the peacock style suits of Moore were from Cyril Castle).

    I have see nice single breasted suits of Duffy,but his double breasted is terrible!
     

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