1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Roy, Jun 23, 2011.

  1. Xenon

    Xenon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    602
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    

    Truly beautiful! And 1/8 inch is excellent work, especially for this species

    Also any idea why RTW shoes have such wide heels? I have the combination you describe (thin heel - wide forepart )and I have noticed that many other people also have this, even women no matter what size.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2011
  2. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,215
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    Thanks. Like I said, I got lucky. Especially since I didn't use a laser or a hollowing rig. I have done several of these including large hollow forms with a narrow (1" +) opening. But I think...technically speaking...this one is my favourite.

    You have narrow heels and a wide forepart, so you are especially tuned to that "issue" and think that there are "many other people" who also have this configuration. But in the US I would be surprised if 25% of the population have feet like this and I suspect the figure is more like 10%.

    Shoe manufacturers cannot cater to 10% of the population. And because they cannot, the major lastmakers do not. The standard widths in any given size are A, B, C, D, & E. And there are AA's, EE's and even H widths. Most manufacturers make shoes, in at most, two widths. Nevermind shoes with heels in one width and foreparts in another.

    Manufacturers tend to make shoes in wide widths assuming that people like you will lace the shoe tighter and as long as the foot is held in the shoe, all other sins are forgiven. People get used to improper fit and extra space in the shoe.

    Of course that leads to all sorts of other problems, not the least of which is people buying shoes too narrow or too short in order to get a shoe that will cinch down over the instep. And in turn, that leads to people buying shoes off Ebay or in thrift shops that not only don't fit them but because of previously set footbeds, never will, even if they are ostensibly the right size.
     
  3. C&A

    C&A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    866
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    The Netherlands
    My kid goat cap toes almost finished

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,175
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    London, UK
    Quote:
    you are one lucky man! (how much does a pair of shoes cost from this guy??)
     
  5. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,981
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    
    5000 euros to my understanding. Please those who have ordered chime in.
     
  6. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,117
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2003
    Location:
    sage
    


    wat?

    riccardo charges €3000
    for 'normal' leathers.

    and he will come to the states
    if there are 15 clients
    and the price remains the same
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2011
  7. Roy

    Roy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,051
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2004
    Location:
    Amsterdam
    T4 already answered.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2011
  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,981
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    

    sorry for the mistake :embar:
     
  9. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,175
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    London, UK
    who cares what they cost when you have such nie shoes. also, they look really well made and after watching that video... i already failed the no purchase club! haha [​IMG]
     
  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,981
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    
    did you buy a pair from Madaboutown.com?
     
  11. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,175
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    London, UK
    Quote:
    thanks for the link, never seen that before!
     
  12. musicguy

    musicguy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,220
    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Location:
    Santiago de Chile
    Holy crap... this is some serious shoe porn! Love the suede and the alligators. SEX

    I haven't been this excited about shoes since I first found out about Koji.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2011
  13. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,981
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    
    and they seem to give you $50 off any item. unfortunately, unable to buy from them!
     
  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,981
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    (think they are closed)
     
  15. meister

    meister Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,320
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    

    The double row of stitching and brogueing on the toecap is crooked on my monitor. Maybe because you have used goatskin.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2011
  16. musicguy

    musicguy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,220
    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Location:
    Santiago de Chile
    

    Could it be that it follows the curvature of the shoe? I wonder how it looks from top-down.
     
  17. shoefan

    shoefan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    853
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2003
    

    I think the stitching is a bit crooked, in that the distance between the two threads does seem to get a bit greater at one point. When uppers are sewn, the two rows of stitching are sewn in separate 'passes', so it is very easy to be a bit less than perfect, which is what it appears happened here. In most instances, the thread color matches the upper leather, so any slight variations won't be noticeable. However, with the contrasting stitch, it does show up a bit more. I'm sure in real life it is not a big deal.

    A second possible 'issue' perhaps noticed/mentioned (not sure of interpretation) is the way the toe cap is a bit angled toward the heel along the sides. Toe caps are cut with a slight curvature (based on a circle with a radius of 8 to 12 inches); this renders the cap pretty much 'square' or straight along the top of the shoe. However, depending on the exact shape of the last, the cap can angle a bit on the sides. It is considered preferable for the cap to angle toward the heel, rather than toward the toe (which would result from a cap cut with too much of a curve).

    I guess on a factory shoe, where the company is going to make thousands of pairs on the same last, they may actually cut the toe cap based on the exact shape of the last, rather than based on a standard curve, and hence the cap can always be close to perfect at the sides; however, bespoke shoes are made on unique lasts, so caps are cut based on the continuous curve described above.

    Of course, the process of lasting the upper (which process involves significant pulling/stretching of the leather), along with natural variations in the leather, can also affect the way the upper sits on the last.
     
  18. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,981
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    

    insightful
     
  19. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    not a fan of the combination heel. barely not visible irl, though.

    how would you compare with your Maftei experience?
     
  20. C&A

    C&A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    866
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    The Netherlands
    

    Also noticed it. Will see how it looks when I take delivery of them later next month, but expect it's not a big issue in real life. But we'll see. Will also ask what caused the distortion.


    Enjoyed both experiences. Fit on the Bestettis is a bit better than on the Mafteis, but had multiple prova fittings with Bestetti and only one with Maftei. I prefer the shape Riccardo made me, but that is really a personal thing. But must say that Maftei did make me a nice business shoe. Will go and see the latter again when he visits Düsseldorf and discuss how the fit/comfort can be improved further.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2011

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by