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Return of the Double Breasted Suit...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ebonyman, Sep 16, 2011.

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  1. mandjo

    mandjo Well-Known Member

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    I've seen Casablanca and DB was popular back in the day. Maybe that's why people claim it's making a comeback, but it never really went away.
     
  2. FillW

    FillW Well-Known Member

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    I got the Ermenegildo Zega DB jacket Tuesday and took it home and tried it on with a white dress shirt. I think it'll work but I'll have to get some pants to go with it. I'll take some pics after I get it back from the cleaners to get it cleaned and pressed.
     
  3. jon54

    jon54 Member

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    From what I gather, the double breasted suit never faded in the fashion scene, it's merely reborn - that is- now it's cut slimmer and tapered closer to the body to enhance the body's physique.
     
  4. FillW

    FillW Well-Known Member

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    So is the doublebreasted jacket mainly part of a suit or did they come as sport coats also?
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2012
  5. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Well-Known Member

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    Both.
     
  6. tim_horton

    tim_horton Well-Known Member

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    Nice thread.

    As a shorter guy (5'6") I have stayed away from double breasted suits. But some things, like Prine of Wales, look betetr to me as a double breasted than as a single breasted.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2012
  7. jsanders65

    jsanders65 Active Member

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    The new DB's are of course better they're structured closer to the body, tapered with slimmer silhouettes, as opposed to the old one.
     
  8. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Well-Known Member

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    I was reading somewhere about Ralph Lauren's fondness for the 6x2 DB with the lower button, rather than the middle button, fastened. It seemed to be indicative of his general appreciation/appropriation of various elements of classic men's style from the 1920s-1940s - It has also been said that the Duke of Windsor popularized the style in the late 1930s/early 1940s. I thought it was interesting to see that Lucky Luciano was photographed wearing his 6x2 DBs in the same manner as early as 1936 - perhaps both men appreciated the supposedly elongating effect that the lower button position was supposed to create.

    http://uptowndandy.blogspot.com/2012/07/of-pimps-peaked-lapels-or-short-history.html
     
  9. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    Just to resurrect this thread because, having got myself a DB blazer, I have changed my mind about how DB coats looks on shorter guys like me. However, one thing has been puzzling me and perhaps the more knowledgeable style historians on the forum can help here: in the photographs of classic DB suits, the peaked lapel appears to be dominant. However, I've seen plenty of DB suits 'in the wild' with a notched lapel. Although I prefer the peaked lapel on a DB suit coat, I don't think the notched lapel looks terrible. But is the notched lapel a faux-pas? Does anyone here have a DB suit with a notched lapel?
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2012
  10. luftvier

    luftvier Well-Known Member

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    No they're an awful aberration of the 80s.
     
  11. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    Ok, that's a simple and comprehensive answer, thank-you!
     
  12. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Well-Known Member

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    They are actually a classic staple and look awesome in POW check.
     
  13. Ebonyman

    Ebonyman Well-Known Member

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    I've have to agree with the original response to this question. I haven't had a notched lapel DB since sometime in the '80s and can't say that I would ever wear one again....
     
  14. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    Having done a bit of digging, I don't think it is a classic style. In the 20s-30s, there appears to have been a fad for 'fishmouth' or 'Parisian' lapels on coats whether SB or DB, but these are not the same as standard notch lapels. And they still don't look as 'right' as a peak lapel on a DB.
     
  15. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    This only works with causal DB jacket, mind you this should not be your first one
     
  16. ethanm

    ethanm Well-Known Member

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    This is just musing but I think that the peak lapel looks "right" on a double breasted jacket because it follows the shape of the buttons. The way the top buttons create an angle is similar to the points on a peak lapel.
     
  17. size 38R

    size 38R Well-Known Member

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    Canali make a damn fine db. :slayer:
     
  18. jcole208

    jcole208 Member

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    I recently found a flawless double-breasted suit at Goodwill. Although I wear suits to work nearly every day, I've never tried a DB, but it was so nice I couldn't pass it up for $10.

    Here are the details: It's a 1980's era Christian Dior heavy wool navy pinstripe 6 x 2. It fits nearly perfectly, with the only complaint being the overpadded shoulders typical of the period.

    That being said, it really does drape well, and I'd like to pull it out for special occasions if I can. One such possible occasion is coming up. I'm attending a college performance of Hamlet with my wife. Typical dress at this venue is coat and tie. I know pinstripe says "boardroom" to many, but would it work for an event like this? If not when?
     
  19. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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