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REEVES OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by David Reeves, Sep 13, 2013.

  1. Kevin Hedges

    Kevin Hedges New Member

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    fantastic work on the trousers.
     
  2. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    Just fitted this, slim down sleeves, give a touch more in the half girth.

    [​IMG]

    Fitting a ladies tailcoat at 6.30.....that should be a tough one.
     
  3. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    How fitted is she? I can imagine that looking really great or really not so great.
     
  4. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    I think its going to be good, pleased with the fitting but a bit to be done. Here are the trousers, need to raise the back balance a lot and take in the hips.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    That's going to look great. I like how you did the taper.
     
  6. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    No double ribbon on the tailcoat trousers? What material did you use?
     
  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    There will be, its a try on trouser. I used Taylor and Lodge wool/mohair.
     
  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    Drop 10 fitting, Athletic build, Dormeuil Tonik Mohair. Client is a size 45 chest.

    [​IMG]

    I will be lowering the button stance, lowering the vest break, the client doesn't like the roping so that gets changed to a natural shoulder.
     
    2 people like this.
  9. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    He needs more lapel.
     
  10. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    He's a green beret....he gets the lapel width he wants!
    I think though that stylistically, a large man, or a very slim man, or in fact anybody can go for a stylistically slimmer or wider lapel. As long as it's not like 2" wide or 70s wide I don't have an issue with people having their clothes how they want them. I mean if it was up to me I'd keep the roping.

    Not that I have a problem myself with the lapel width, I don't think it's particularly narrow at all.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2014
  11. SmellBlind

    SmellBlind Active Member

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    What does "vest break" refer to? Where the roll falls?
     
  12. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Fair enough, can you wear mohair suits all year round?
     
  13. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    I think it depends on the weight, color and context really.

    A light weight, silver mohair suit is more for spring/summer (in the day or evening), but you could wear a navy mohair in a heavier weight all year round, as a more dressier suit, especially in the evening.

    Before I retired this, I used to wear it all year round, its made from 9.5 oz Dormeuil Tonik

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    David, I know you are a big supporter of mohair, but I am curious, have you ever seen it split or fray prematurely? I remember some saying that they have experienced mohair suit splitting at the trouser crease and such. I love they way they look, but I am concerned with how "brittle" they seem to be.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014
  15. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    Honestly have never experienced or even heard of this, I have probably owned personally about 15 mohair suits of various weights and composition and over the past 15 years I have sold a lot more than that. I can only imagine some Igent bought something dodgy from a jobber or picked up something that had been lying around for 30+ years.

    Quite unusually I never deal with jobbers, always the source, that way if something happens like that my client and I can take it up with the manufacturer. In rare cases (and I mean like once every 4 years) when a cloth "fails" for some reason, the S.O.P is to refund the client or remake for them and let them keep the original garment. This actually happened to me once with a silk and wool suit, it was strange, but a combination of water and slight friction would cause very slight color loss. With little fuss the manufacturer paid for the make up of the garment and refunded the cloth, and I got to keep the suit 4 years later I am still wearing the suit....although I keep it out of the rain!
     
    2 people like this.
  16. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    I have head of this splitting, too. I haven't as much mohair experience as David by far but I have never had a problem either. I don't think the claim was about jobbers or the like. I think it was referring to older, 100% mohair. Everything I have is a mohair wool blend for that reason. With Cape Kid having the highest mohair content at 60% kid mohair.
     
  17. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    Just really thinking about what could cause the splitting like that, but it could very well be that the cloth was old and dried out causing the fibres to be brittle, if the cloth was made from short rather than long fibers this could be a problem as well. Must admit I don't think I have made anything in 100% Mohair, but I have made things quite often in a 90% mohair.
     
  18. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    Who makes the super high mohair content cloth you used (90%)? I have never seen it, though I also never have looked.
    Have you used cape kid? From what I can tell, it is your kind of cloth. Very lightweight, very slick and shiny )but also dry looking) and has a very fine feel. I should get another one.
     
  19. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I even worry about blend, say something is 20% mohair that to me means one out of every five threads is susceptible to breaking. Whether the garment is still whole or not you're going to have broken fibers.

    The breaking of mohair does make sense to me, think of how sharp the creases get and such, can probably only take so much. I always think of a dried out twig snapping under pressure whereas it would simply bend otherwise.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  20. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    Dormeuil does a 90%

    I have a cape kidd book at home but it isnt the kind of cloth I would generally use, I would typically use Dormeuil, Scabal or Taylor and Lodge, Much nicer quality and finish.
     

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