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Recent commissions (Turnbull & Asser shirt)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by naturlaut, Nov 6, 2004.

  1. naturlaut

    naturlaut Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    565
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2003
    Dear members, The board is growing. It's great to see so many new members. Finally signed up for a hosting service --- Image Shack doesn't allow me to access their site due to my current location (Hong Kong) so I can't view or uploading anything on Image Shack. Here are some of my recent commissions, do give me suggestions and criticism. Bespoke Turnbull & Asser Fabric: Thomas Mason Super 120s [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] Fit: fine. Â My body is horrible assymetric --- it's not easy fitting my shoulders. Â Turnbull has done a decent job, though not yet perfect. Â The signature 3-button cuffs are also very difficult to do, as different parts of your wrist have to be measured in order for the cuff to fit perfectly. Â Right now, the first button (closest from my hand) fits ok, while the third button (furthest to my hand) is a bit loose --- and this is not my first Turnbull shirt. Â I hate having cuffs that keep sliding down into the palm of my hand, and although it is not as serious, it is not perfect yet --- but this is supposed to be a Turnbull signature.?. Â The body is quite clean, and the collar spread is calculated to compliment to width of my face. Â Pattern matching is quite perfect, and there is also extra fabric provided for future use. Â However, after just a few wearing, some of the button threads are already coming loose. Rating: ** Value: ***
     
  2. Keith T

    Keith T Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 17, 2004
    Location:
    Texas
    I like the color of that blue stripe. The spacing is just right for the width of the stripe itself, too, IMO. The shoulder pic really indicates that they nailed the pattern matching.
     
  3. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Well-Known Member

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    Aug 26, 2004
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    I really like this shirt, is the pattern only bespoke? or do they have it in RTW?
     
  4. BjornH

    BjornH Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    503
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    Sep 18, 2002
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    This always amazes me. The king of English shirts and I have to refasten 2-3 buttons on each T&A shirt. It comes as a surprise that the bespoke ones have the same problem. I wonder if they share some parts of the production process ?

    Anyway, I'm green with envy, please keep more reports coming.

    Bjorn
     
  5. Horace

    Horace Well-Known Member

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    Sep 28, 2004
    Great shirt.  The blue is brillant.  Great collar too.

    Do you know how much of the shirt is machine-stitched and how much sewn by hand?

    I know that the three-button-cuff is a T&A hallmark, but somehow I find it a bit too much.  

    Would you please indulge me and argue for its aesthetic merit?
     
  6. chorse123

    chorse123 Well-Known Member

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    Nov 5, 2004
    Please excuse my ignorance, but I'm still waiting for my first MTM shirts to arrive. Is the extra material shown in the plastic there so you can have the shirt collar replaced? Do any of the less expensive shirtmakers do this as well? Love the pattern.
     
  7. brescd01

    brescd01 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    543
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2004
    1) I like the pattern
    2) I appreciate very much this critical evaluation of your purchase, and I wish more forum members would do the same.
     
  8. jcusey

    jcusey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    I would imagine that the fabric is widely available: many makers have Thomas Mason fabrics, and a simple blue stripe made from 120s 2x2 cotton is unlikely to be hard to find. I don't know if that particular fabric would be used in any of T&A's RTW shirts, but I would think that you could get a T&A MTM shirt made from it, or a shirt made from it my a different maker.
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    In Hiding
    naturlaut: did you ask for a different collar than their standard? Most T&A collars that I see have a tie space gap, and the sides sort of "bulge" near the points. I like your collar much better.
     
  10. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    812
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    Oct 26, 2004
    Location:
    New York City
    ;> Congratulations. You have joined the brotherhood.

    T & A makes a beautiful shirt.

    An amusing story: A lawyer down the hall from my old office recommended T & A. He raved that he had shirts for 15 years and that he still wears them and that a button never fell off. Well, I finally stepped up to the plate and ordered bespoke. I found that some of the buttons were loose and that I had to tighten them myself. I also found that T & A wore-out no differently than other shirts. (The wear-out is a factor of cloth and frequency of wear.)

    The shirt is essentially made by a bespoke team which hand sets the collar and does other hand operations. None of the sewing is by hand, especially the buttons. Ironically, machine sewing makes a stronger shirt for commercial laundering. Some of the Borrelli shoulder stitching comes apart in the laundry.

    Although it isn't hand sewn, I rate T & A as one of the best.

    When they mess-up they are gentlemen and make all necessary corrections.

    BTW, I found some of the button cuffs hard to button. I button them before putting them on.

    Good luck.
     
  11. LabelKing

    LabelKing Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Constantinople
    Quite lovely.

    I think Ernest should acquire some.
     
  12. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Well-Known Member

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    Oct 25, 2004
    Looks really nice.

    Son of Brummell - interesting comment about durability of machine vs. hand work. Under the circumstances, I think I'd rather have the machine-work.

    Gosh, I love T&A.
     
  13. naturlaut

    naturlaut Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    565
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    Feb 27, 2003
    I have had quite a few Turnbull shirts. I have no complaints about their machine stitching (doesn't mean I like it 100%) except that the buttons really come off easily, and I am a guy who handwashes all my shirts (and never tumble-dry). This last shirt, however, really didn't wait long before the button threads start coming loose.

    The 3-button cuff is sort of a signature of Turnbull (see also Pierce Brosnan's blue shirt towards the end of "The World Is Not Enough"); I think it looks smart, catches a bit of attention while to entirely stealing it, and it makes you wrist look slimmer.

    Yes, I 'designed' the collar myself together with the person who measured me. I decided not to have some really wide spread (though very much in fashion) but stick to one that is more proportional to my face. The first impression a person gives is always the face and the 3 or 4 inches below, hence the collar and the tie knot is exceptionally important. After that, it's usually the suit and lastly the shoe (unless you are like me who usually look at the shoes first, otherwise that's the general order for the general audience).
     
  14. ernest

    ernest Well-Known Member

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    How much did you pay it?
     
  15. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 26, 2004
    Location:
    New York City
    You have a beautiful shirt. Enjoy it.

    I like the initials under the label. I used to monogram above the waist, but I got tired of the look. Also, because the T & A price kept rising I deleted the monogram to save the money. (Like everything, T & A charges more for monograms, such as about $9 per letter. However, its monograms are not like the other companies.)

    Was it from the "classic" or "exclusive" collection?

    Good luck.
     
  16. GreyFlannelMan

    GreyFlannelMan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 12, 2004
    Location:
    NYC
    That shirt looks quite smart. I am green with envy.

    GFM
     
  17. Rabbi Mark

    Rabbi Mark Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    Manhattan
    Must dissent from the fine gentlemen above, and ask how in the world could you go with a button cuff on such a fine shirt?

    Great work on the collar -- looks just right -- and I'll second heartily the compliments on your choice of fabric. But **double cuffs** next time..
     
  18. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,902
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    Apr 11, 2002
    Location:
    Northern VA, USA
    great shirt, really like the collar. Having just arrived home from my trip to NYC, I can say the turnbull store in NYC was one of the highlights-- really great stuff, and lots of fun to shop for ties, PERFECT pocketsquares, gloves, etc. etc.
     

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