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Raphael

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NewYorkBuck, Mar 8, 2005.

  1. NewYorkBuck

    NewYorkBuck Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone have contact information for Raphael?

    Thx in advance.
     
  2. Kai

    Kai Well-Known Member

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    510 Madison Avenue
    Suite 500
    NY, NY 10022

    212 888-6887

    Have fun.
     
  3. Carlo

    Carlo Well-Known Member

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    I have sent clients there before and they were thrilled.
    The man/myth/legend that is Grayson offered me Raphael when I asked where to send NYC clients once and I must say that his suggestion was very good. My customers unanimously reported that Raphael was golden.
     
  4. Panzeraxe

    Panzeraxe Well-Known Member

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    Is the rumor that Rapheal does alterations true as well?
     
  5. Carlo

    Carlo Well-Known Member

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    My UNDERSTANDING - you should ask, is that he will if it is something special. I don't send guys there to have a pair of trousers altered but do send guys there with Kiton suit.

    By all reports he's a kind and wonderful gentleman.
     
  6. lisapop

    lisapop Well-Known Member

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    Panzer, use my name with Raph and he will do alterations for you.
    Grayson
     
  7. Carlo

    Carlo Well-Known Member

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    I meant to say Lisapop recommended Raphael, not Grayson.
    Just trying to give due credit and Marc's suggestion tu use his name proved a fine recommendation. Thanks Marc... er Lisa
     
  8. lisapop

    lisapop Well-Known Member

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    Carlo, thanks for the nice words. Glad things worked out with your clients and Raph. He's very busy, but if anyone uses my name, he'll do whatever you need, within reason, as a courtesy to me.

    Grayson
     
  9. Panzeraxe

    Panzeraxe Well-Known Member

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    Thank you - should I just mention Grayson? (I ask as I'm assuming that it is a pseudonym) - the article I have in mind is a cashmere Zegna Napoli sportcoat - nothing close to a Kiton, but respectable nonetheless.

    Thanks for your help,

    Panzer
     
  10. lisapop

    lisapop Well-Known Member

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    Panzer, mention Marc Grayson to Raph--I'll give him a heads-up that you might call.  I've seen Raph literally take apart Kiton and Brioni suits that were brought in for
    alterations---I mean completely taken apart into their separate pieces on a cutting table---and basically re-made in order to make them fit like bespoke suits, so the repairs or alterations might take a little extra time...but it will be worth it. Enjoy.

    Grayson
     
  11. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    Good to see you back marc.

    Have to say, Panzer, this isn't having a go or anything, but Darren did a crackerjack job altering a sportcoat for me. 'course, you would have just missed his visit. Oh well.
     
  12. marc37

    marc37 Well-Known Member

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    VICTORIA AUSTRALIA.
    Grayson is a legend. He will never die. Good on ya old son. Shove it up authority. l like it, l like it. Â [​IMG]
     
  13. bry2000

    bry2000 Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone comment on what Raphael charges these days for a 2 piece suit made of H. Lesser or Smith Woolens cloth? I am trying to figure out if I should see Raphael or go to Oxxford while their master tailor/stylist is visiting NY. I think entry level Oxxford MTM price is about $2395. I am not sure what the cloth selection is like at that price, but I will find out either tomorrow or Friday. I realize that Raphael is custom and that Oxxford is MTM. If the price differential is marginal, I would likely go the custom route. But I would like to hear what others think. Thank you.
     
  14. uriahheep

    uriahheep Well-Known Member

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    Probably go with Raphael if the price difference isn't significant.
     
  15. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Well-Known Member

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    I think Raphael is ~ 4,000. I'd say that's a pretty significant difference. (But probably worth it if you like the bespoke process.)
     
  16. Panzeraxe

    Panzeraxe Well-Known Member

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    Ha. - just my luck I guess. I have to give Beaman a try one of these days too, though I've never really been all that comfortable with the visiting tailor process.

    Marc - thanks again for your help,

    Panzer
     
  17. lisapop

    lisapop Well-Known Member

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    I wrote an in-depth comparision of my Raphael bespoke suits vs my Oxxford MTM suits on AA a while ago, which you might want to read (If it's still available).  Raph's suits are a few hundred dollars higher than Oxxford MTM suits and, without going into a whole comparison again, we're talking apples and oranges in terms of fit, form, and workmanship.  I have the utmost respect for Oxxford and their adherence to the highest standards, but MTM has strict limitations, most notably in terms of fit, and I can readily see those shortcomings whenever I wear the Oxxford suits.  It's kind of like the difference between having a house made from the foundation up, and having one retro-fitted. While Oxxford's garments are made in their own dedicated factory, it nevertheless is a factory making thousands of garments.  Raphael has a much smaller output, and so there is an artisanal quality of craftsmanship lacking in my Oxxford suits.  Last time I checked, Oxxford MTM was in the $3K range, even higher for striped cloth due to the need to buy extra cloth (for purposes of aligning the stripes), so at this rather rarified price point, you might as well spend a few hundred dollars extra (Easy for me to spend your money.) and get a suit that will represent a stronger long-term investment and provide a heightened level of enjoyment.
    Grayson
     
  18. lisapop

    lisapop Well-Known Member

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    Bry2000, not that anyone asked me, but if given a choice between Lesser & Smith, Lesser wins out by a sizeable margin. Merely feeling the cloth from both firms brought me to that conclusion: Lesser cloth is smoother and more refined, whereas Smith cloth, in contrast, is a bit coarser. I do admire the quintessentially English designs from Smith, but Lesser cloth just drapes to a level of perfection that Smith cloth, in my experience, can't replicate. I'm in the process of having 3 or 4 suits made from Lesser cloth, from their 13 oz. range. And, there is the Carlo Barbera lambswool cloth distributed by Lesser that truly is outstanding in its softness and beauty.
    Grayson
     
  19. bry2000

    bry2000 Well-Known Member

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    Marc, I agree with you that Lesser's cloth is outstanding. There is one swatch in particular in the 13 oz Smith's book that I really like. But I am likely to choose one from Lesser again. I am currently having a suit done from cloth from the Lesser's 11/12 oz book. I always appreciate hearing your views and opinions.
     
  20. lisapop

    lisapop Well-Known Member

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    Bry2000, you have discerning taste, considering the myriad of cloth selection out there, some of it quality and some not-so-good.  Most of my suits are made from that same 11/12 Lesser range, but I'm finding that the slightly heavier cloth drapes even better.  Check out the medium weight cloth from Harrisons, which also makes very nice stuff, right up there with Lesser in my opinion.  Harrisons is famous for their "Millionaire Cashmere" that Kiton uses, but while it's amazing to the touch, it's way too soft to be practical (Will stretch out of shape over time).  MC is also dizzyingly expensive; not that I would or could spend that kind of money on one garment, but a sport coat made from MC, from a bespoke tailor, would sell for $5,000+. I went a little crazy and just had a few riding jackets made with 19 oz. cloth from John Hardy that feels like it can stop a bullet.  At the same time, it can't drape as well because it's just too heavy to have any flow, so you run into the law of diminishing returns by going too heavy.  Funny how I started out years ago with feather-weight cloth in the 7-8 oz range, but over the years have come to appreciate the "substantiveness" of heavier cloth, which I'm able to wear even during the warmer months with complete comfort.  Enjoy your suits in good health.
    Grayson
     

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