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Random fashion thoughts

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by thekunk07, Aug 1, 2009.

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  1. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    Old damir or new damir ? in either case i don't see it ... Old damir was all about monochromatic egg silhouettes and orientalist pipe dreams, channeling mongolian warlords and opium den dregs-drinkers and ottoman vassals.
    New damir is, in an absurd twist, tailored luxe aimed at i can only assume ladies who are shopping otherwise at established high end houses , which is near impossible for him to break into.

    neither of these seem to be in CL's works. he is drawing on so many influences it's all over the place. skinny bottoms with larger tops, corse fabrics, unlfattering cuts but not in some ironic way, at times random colors thrown in...it's as if you take dries, hackermann, EG, make them all bad, and twist their threads into one collection....was never impressed handling the stuff and honestly i'd pay no attention to it were it not for people talking about it here.
    my point of reference is really off but i can't say i see any true use of playing with volume and proportions . that's probably because i'm lost in an expansive void of infinite fabrics at this point so that's that.

    no clue what yohji has to do with lemaire

    agreed on last point , it's what i hope for when i open this thread thankfully back on track.

    If I was after something that matches what B!CD is describing I'd go no further than Peir Wu
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
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  2. sipang

    sipang Well-Known Member

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    Lemaire and Damir tend to be lumped together because they share some of the same design references, work (used to work ?) with the same stylist and are featured together in Encens magazine (co-edited by their stylist, Samuel Drira) but the similarities are superficial at most.
     
  3. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the heads up p4, looks like cool stuff. has ames done menswear before?

    I enjoy Damir Doma clothes whenever I see them. The things that make it to stores are always pretty well made and very beautiful in person. I've almost bought things on a number of occasions. That being said his shows are incredibly inconsistent, not that that is any way to judge a designer necessarily. I think in a way there are some shared ideas about proportions and silhouettes and a sort of orientalism thing. I just think the consistency Lemaire shows is more Yohji-like. He certainly isn't one for super extravagant visuals or prints.
     
  4. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Well-Known Member

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    seems like a massive stretch. i can see a tiny bit of haider and maybe workwear references automatically = EG but...no they dont? dries?

    peir wu is great but she's doing entirely different things with different kinds of fabrics.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  5. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    last couple collections as I said, so new damir. would be hard to draw a comparison with old damir. hah


    i think sharing the same design references isn't necessarily a "superficial" similarity. It shows a similar point of view or set of preoccupations. And I don't think they'd both work with Drira and turn up in Encens, which has a very defined aesthetic, if they didn't share something. The things you point to, in my opinion, are evidence that there is some affinity there. There are also big differences, of course, but I don't think the similarities are just superficial.
     
  6. sipang

    sipang Well-Known Member

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    I don't really see much of Dries or Hackman in CL. His exoticism seem much more grounded and utilitarian, more repro than romantic. The influences are all over the place but I find the mix successful in most case, and he's been pretty consistently referencing the same things since his days at Lacoste at least: 1930s sportswear, traditional asian cuts, colonial chic, 1980s new wave, Issey etc
     
  7. Fuuma

    Fuuma Well-Known Member

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    Similarities are the 80s hexagonal shapes, the nods to womenswear and the ensuing similarities between men and women's collections.The long top, short top versus high waisted thing is also quite often used by the two.

    I like Lemaire in theory but I've tried some stuff and it doesn't look good on me, too bad cause I wanted to kop the Kurta when it was on sale. Who else makes a good kurta?
     
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  8. Fuuma

    Fuuma Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the thing with Lemaire is that he seems to enjoy using the colour palette that was most common in times when dyes weren't as advanced and most clothing more muted (1930s sportwear/colonial past) but I don't think he borrows from asian cuts directly, more from 80s Issey...
     
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  9. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    I don't really know much about him. You can find a couple looks around online (Google his name and "Prairie" for instance), but I haven't spent a lot of time digging.


    Yeah, I think this is definitely true. In fact where I think he differs from Damir is that he is, as you put it, more utilitarian and repro, where Damir is the romantic version. If nothing else it is an interesting mix of themes that he manages to pull together into a coherent and consistent vision.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  10. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    ok i should clarify , i'm not saying what he does = dries, hack, eg peir wu etc.
    the peir wu was what satisfies the generic criteria (feelings) B!CD listed for why he enjoys it. if that's what i was after then she instills the same emotions in me.

    my point is every time i see a picture or an item on a rack from Lemaire I can't help but to think , oh there's someone else who's done this better: nicer fabric, more interesting print, greater exaggeration of proportions , etc. he's too stuck doing too many things while trying to anchor himself in the lacoste/hermes garbage he got himself into earlier. it's all over the place without appealing to me in any way. well that's my take on it anyway

    superficial similarties to diagram what superficial my thought-process is
    [​IMG][​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  11. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Well-Known Member

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    Maybe Umit?
     
  12. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Well-Known Member

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    hermes garbage? he's still the women's creative director and that stuff is incredibly beautiful. I don't think that work informs his namesake collection per se though certainly it has his signature. I don't think he's trying to juggle that many things at all. you can trace a lot of references but the looks are, to me, very coherent.

    it sounds like he' s just not your cup of tea. he's not an extremely exaggerated or radical designer. he does subtle things that I think are really elegant.
     
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  13. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    i wouldn't presume to force my opinion on anyone and isn't that what we're all discussing here, our respective cups of tea ? i prefer more exotic leaves, so to speak.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  14. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    depends how you wanna distinguish between that and just a henley or a throne-collar (or mao collar) but everything from thamanyah to cdg to vlas to leder has 'em.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    if you don't mind the horrible name, poheme bohemien has some every season. siki actually made one that wasn't terrible fw13.

    if you want the more traditional stuff, perhaps with embroideries or interesting weaves, not sure if there are any designer options.
     
  15. Fuuma

    Fuuma Well-Known Member

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    Those are too short, real ones I usually wouldn't want to wear the fabric (same are cool but my skin tone strongly differs from those of most kurta wearers). I wear my JJVE tunic a lot and just want to add a few.:slayer:
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  16. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Well-Known Member

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    the current umit one is one of the more convincing long designer ones I've seen lately. might still run into the color problem though. I think there have been nice damir ones in past seasons, not sure about current.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  17. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Well-Known Member

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    I was at some 'cultural festival' in DC a few months ago (otherization through song and dance!), and a few folks were wearing kurtas with suits. it was dope. someone here should attempt it
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  18. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    oh man JJVE is fantastic. just get more of that


    you mean the ones thecorner has now with the buttoning on the back/neck ? wanted to get it but i can't accept such fastening :embar:


    funny you should mention that because i've been doing it for a while in the hotter months, well more so kurta + matching pants (which are just drawstring balloon trousers in same fabric--different weaves of cottons--and color) with a loose blazer thrown over, usually cotton or rayon.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  19. canstyleace

    canstyleace Well-Known Member

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    eg makes the banded collar 19th century bd long shirt
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  20. sipang

    sipang Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha. I guess I like it for the exact reasons you dislike it :^)




    You know how I feel about Dries but I actually prefer the Lemaire look here, let's fight
     
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