1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Raffaele Caruso vs Cantarelli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by foto010101, Nov 4, 2011.

  1. clausc

    clausc Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,166
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    Location:
    Europe
    Hmmm. I have a discount outlet around that sells a lot of Cantarelli suits and jackets at heavy discount (70-80% off), but probably these are 3 to 5 years old. I bought yesterday a Cantarelli DB wool coat in boiled wool and previously a cotton suit that are nice. All the other suits or jackets I tried (Tailor, Washed or Jersey Planet collections) were of dubious quality and the fit was too relaxed and did not work for me. I suppose most of the Cantarelli stuff on Yoox is similar and inconsistent and unless you have free returns (not my case for Yoox), I would not buy them online.
    I have much better experience with Caruso from Yoox, but those are more expensive.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2013
  2. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    970
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2010
    Location:
    The Dark Side of the Spoon
    

    i think this is the most important thing. the cut of the average cantarelli is really very different from the average caruso. cantarelli works really well for a more athletic body shape. caruso tends to work best for a slim but not particularly athletic shape. now, i'm aware of the fact that caruso is all over the map with its models - but i've tried on tons of models and almost every single time i've discovered that the armholes / arms are way too skinny, they leave too much room in the gut, and the jackets are cut too short. shoulders, while typically lightly padded, are cut very square and without much of a slope.as a result, much as i love their very light tailoring, they do not work for me at all. with caruso in particular, it is really critical that you have a certain body shape for it to work.
     
  3. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    96
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2012
    Location:
    Torino ,Italy
    Really you find arm holes of Caruso smaller than Cantarelli? For me is exactly the opposite :) Same thing for lenght of the jackets, Cantarelli are bit shorter . Agree on the shoulders with the light padding, they square you up a little, in that Cantarelli works better for me aswell.
    As "shape" I do like aswell more Cantarelli but ,as you say , I absolutely adore the fabrics from Caruso ,expecially their flannels so I'm always fighting between them too,being on the same price range (off course when I find Isaia or Kiton on sale for the same price I go for them but is very rare unluckly!!!!)

    But indeed I'm more athletic than skinny (184 cm 83 kg) ..

    I really think there are thons of lines within the lines of Caruso and Cantarelli !

    Vittorio
     
  4. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    970
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2010
    Location:
    The Dark Side of the Spoon
    i have found that for mainline cantarelli, the armholes are quite reasonable. i have noticed though that for casual jackets, the cantarelli tailor line, etc - they can run a bit small.

    for caruso, maybe more than the armholes - the problem is the sleeve width... also, the sleeve pitch on most caruso's are not angled enough -- they tend to be cut very vertical. so, if you are broad-shouldered, this can be a problem -- by the time you have found a size that is big enough in the shoulders, you end up with a lot of excess material in the chest / armpit.

    i do like the fabrics of caruso and the very light construction, but the cuts are a deal-breaker for me.

    for an athletic guy, i still believe that isaia and belvest are your best bets. (recognizing that like caruso, belvest has many models - but on average, this tends to be true.)
     
  5. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,282
    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    As others have said, it is all about fit. Quality wise, if you're going to compare best to best, I call it a wash.
     
  6. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    96
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2012
    Location:
    Torino ,Italy
    belvest? never heard of is it italian? Isaia is amazing but (@ least in the 3 shops I buy stuffs) is 50% more than caruso and cantatelli.
    Cantarelli and Caruso runs around 1000 euro\suit while for Isaia I never found anythign I like for less than 1500!

    I'll check out this Belvest !
     
  7. GothamRed

    GothamRed Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,756
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Location:
    New York City
    Belvest is good stuff. Even though the fit is generally good for me, I'm really starting to dislike all of the (at least to me) obvious Isaia branding these days.
     
  8. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    96
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2012
    Location:
    Torino ,Italy
    saw today in a shop after your suggestion, really not bad style and relly nice flannes! Very very expencive though , 750 euro a jacket around 1300 a suit (I'll check it out on big sales thought :p).

    What you mean with obvious branding?

    Vittorio
     
  9. GothamRed

    GothamRed Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,756
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Location:
    New York City
    e.g.


    [​IMG]
     
  10. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    96
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2012
    Location:
    Torino ,Italy
    yeah we kind of like those bullshits in italy :)
     
  11. GothamRed

    GothamRed Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,756
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Location:
    New York City
    It's just antithetical imho, as the whole point of tailoring styles and garment details is that the maker or at least the quality should be self-evident, without the need for a silly lapel pin to tell the world you're wearing a $4k jacket. In fact, the label itself and branding is far less important that the fit, quality and craftsmanship. The "bullshits," as you put it are exactly that - bullshit marketing.

    Also, to be clear, I fully acknowledge that Isaia's branding and marketing didn't dramatically ramp up in the past couple of years in order to sell more in Italy.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2013
  12. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    96
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2012
    Location:
    Torino ,Italy
    Fully agree with you! It seems to me the brands that has something to show to the world like Isaia and so on are trying to follow Gucci and those "take my wallet and rob me" brands rather than invest in quality itself. When I was fatter I used to steal my dad old jackets that he would not use anymore on daily basis and they felt much more quality that the stuff I buy now for my self ,being them same brands most of the times.
    I'm no expert so be carefull I only speak of "feeling" wearing the stuffs, but I really think in the price you pay for a Isaia or Caruso nowdays there is way more money going to adverts than it used to be in the past and much less in fabrics ; the style got better, or at least closer to my taste but I somehow still like my dad's flannels better than mine.
     
  13. GothamRed

    GothamRed Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,756
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Location:
    New York City
    As in any industry, there is a tipping point in #menswear and Isaia, an old (and I mean old) favorite of mine, unfortunately reached it a couple of years ago (again, imho as others will disagree on varying grounds).
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2013
  14. G. Landi

    G. Landi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2010
    Location:
    New York, NY
    I'm a little late to this conversation but I just picked up a Cantarelli "Washed" line in navy blue washed wool (totally deconstructed, no canvassing, no lining no shoulders...buttons are not functional) and was super impressed. They have been pushing these Vintage and Washed lines...I think they are great and very youthful.

    Re: Isaia...I picked up jakcet recently at a Barney's sale and didn't realize how short they got..and fabric was really nothing special. I remember when Isaia jackets felt like such a privlidge...like totolino85 said, I don't get that feeling anymore...
     
  15. MTLinStyle

    MTLinStyle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    327
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2011
    I have an off topic question regarding the obvious branding "shits". Do many people who own Isaia jackets/suits actually wear them? What about other "shits" from cheaper brands like L.B.M 1911, Tombolini, etc
     
  16. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,777
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Location:
    Venezia, Italy
    

    Pardon?
     
  17. StockwellDay

    StockwellDay Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,551
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    I'm guessing he means lapel pins (coral for Isaia), flowers (lardini), etc.
     
  18. MTLinStyle

    MTLinStyle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    327
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2011
    Correct. I meant the lapel pins, thank you for clarifying my question.

    I always get asked "what's that?" when I wear one. Do others get the same reaction?
     
  19. Jamesgatz

    Jamesgatz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,434
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2010
    I wore the coral pin when I broke my first Isaia jacket and was asked about it. The next time I wore it somebody remarked about it. Now it sits with my cufflinks.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,777
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Location:
    Venezia, Italy
    Adolf Loos wouldn't be happy about them.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by