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Quintessential Knit Ties: Comprehensive Discussion & Appreciation

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Bespoke DJP, Feb 4, 2016.

  1. MrTRC

    MrTRC Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    LDN-RVK-LOS
    @Bespoke DJP , for the rebranded sozzi's, the blue, green and copper zig-zags are solids. The burgundy, grey and other green are dotted.

    I am glad the esteemed @Sam Hober is among us.

    1) Is there any preferences for simple "tube" knits over shaped knits? Or would everyone prefer a shaped knit? Shaped everyday

    Note a tube knit is basically knitted like a straight sock. The shaped knit has been molded with a wooden mold.


    2) The grenadine weave is typically softer than a knit tie - why would you prefer a knit tie over a grenadine? implied casualness - i say implied because in this increasing casual word, a tie reeks of formality to the average Joe, no matter the nature of the tie. Sure, some would find it interesting but it is till a tie


    3) Do you prefer a flat end to your ties in general or just for knits? Immaterial - i could go either way. Though i strong prefer, nay demand, my non-knit ties have a triangle bottom.

    I popped in the Anderson&Sheppard haberdashery in London yesterday and i found 9cm cashmere and wool-blend knits. Not my cuppa, but it might appeal to some. I also popped into Drakes and saw their cotton-knit ties, crunchy but narrow, i actually measured it a shade under 6cm. Again not my cuppa.

    I would very much like to own a crunchy/ Drake-esque knit or three of a decent size * 7 + cm*. Oh well
     
  2. DavidLane

    DavidLane Well-Known Member

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    Upstate
    @Claghorn I have the same problem, and I just ended up stitching the end of the lining all down by hand. I only stitch the end that gets pulled through, and I have had great results. I will post an image when I get a chance.

    David-
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    195
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    Jun 14, 2015
    Dear @MrTRC Hi,

    Thank you for all your input.

    Your shibumi rebranded-Sozzis are very nice, I have them but the light brown. I think that zigzags are "solid", i.e. without any other decorative element than their zigzag make-up.

    Your other Sozzi (second forest green, burgundy, light grey) are what I call solid, which in this case are all dotted; the light grey with purple dots, right? What are the two latter make-ups, meaning which colors are the pertinent sewn dots? Can you please post pictures?

    Once it's by now perfectly clear that "tube" knits are like a sock, you are absolutely correct that one can only agree that wooden-molded shaped knits is a preferable proposition.

    Finally, I read with interest all different vendors that you've been visiting in vain; hopefully we will eventually find our aspired make-ups!

    For the time being, I will share with you and our fellow SFers @turkoftheplains and @culverwood who prefer knit ties at circa 7.5cm of width an interesting make-up that I found out only yesterday: these two knit ties (mid-brown and mid-grey) are silk/wood Eidos at 7.3cm of width, found at the Bloomingdales site. They are quite textured; enjoy:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Cheers,

    Dimitris
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2016
  4. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    I think the answer to these questions depend on how people use their knit ties. Personally, I use knit ties for more casual ensembles and during the summer. The exception is the black knit or navy knit that I use for more formal evening events.

    That said

    1)
    a) My vast preference is the tight crunchy knits made by that German sock factory (Ascot I believe). The tactile qualities are what I enjoy most. I like the way it feels when I use them.
    b) I have both tube and shaped. I use the tube more because they fill my casual wardrobe.

    2) Knits generally fill the casual spectrum for me than grenadines.

    3) Flat ends just for knits.
     
  5. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Well-Known Member

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    Dear @poorsod welcome to this Thread.

    I read with great interest your post and I would appreciate if - should your spare time allows it - you could post pictures along with pertinent information on the respective maker, vendor (if you remember), dimensions of your crunchy ties; can you please verify the maker's name before posting?

    Based on the above discussion, it would be useful for everyone to see tube vs. shaped knits in comparison; could you also make a multiple side by side comparison and/or in the wild shots for us all?

    Best,

    Dimitris
     
  6. Sam H

    Sam H Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone watch Better Call Saul? Howard Hamlin wears knit ties pretty much every scene, always with navy blue pinstripe suits and blue constrast club collar shirts with tiebars. A little over the top for most people but very well-executed power attorney outfit with regards to his character and the show. Anyway, the knit tie thing is interesting because he shows the knit tie as a 100% business tie which is I think how I most appreciate it, moreso than the more common imagery of the rustic, heritage/trad hipster in the middle of NYC. In other words, I feel like knit ties are seen as a way by some people to wear a tie and act like you aren't really wearing a tie and that you are cool and down to earth, but the way this guy wears them, he's wearing them as a full on power tie.

    In fact, this one right here almost looks like it's a Kent Wang

    http://images.amcnetworks.com/amc.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/BCS_109_QA_Hamlin_L.jpg

    http://www.kentwang.com/ties/knit-melange-dark-blue.html
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2016
  7. Sam H

    Sam H Well-Known Member

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    Sep 21, 2012
    Oh also, as promised, here is my most recent knit tie purchase from Kent Wang. Navy with white pindots. They actually sent me navy with alternating blue and white pindots but whatever. Here is an album of some pictures.

    http://imgur.com/a/jMgqq

    And I just ordered a dark blue melange tie like I linked to right above so... yeah. I guess I'll post pics of that as well once it arrives :D
     
  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Texas.
    Yes @Bespoke DJP, that's the one.
     
  9. Sam H

    Sam H Well-Known Member

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    @Sam Hober I just read your website's about us and it's funny, I'm Sam H and I have a dad with your name and a brother with your son's name. I'm not concerned about my public persona being known here, but to make it a bit harder to be searched on, I won't repeat those names, but yeah. If I'm the "Sam H" I have a father and brother of the same names, relationally (except I'm Samuel). Funny coincidence.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2016
  10. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Well-Known Member

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    Chiang Mai, Thailand
    

    Yes it is a small world.
     
  11. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Well-Known Member

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    Dear @Sam H Hi,

    I am not aware of this TV series, but following your post I google it and observed all those knit ties that you mentionned; indeed they look extremely nice with business suits. We all know that knit ties presuppose a more relaxed attire, but IMHO things are under a change as we see gentlemen sporting knit ties in their respective business environments in occasions way far from Pitti...

    The actor's knit tie - in the link that you posted - has produced a quite bulky knot, perhaps due to the pin-collar shirt, but I think we have seen better executions even with this kind of collar!

    I strongly believe that you will be more careful on this matter, and I am looking forward to enjoying your forthcoming photos.

    Wear it in health,

    Dimitris
     
  12. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Well-Known Member

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    Dear @Claghorn Hi,

    Thank you for confirming.

    Knowing that NMWA selects all Sozzi pointed knit ties to be at 8cm of width - as yours is, right? - it strikes me that your knot is not sizable, to the contrary I believe it has the perfect size. What a pleasant surprise!

    Best,

    Dimitris
     
  13. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Well-Known Member

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    Dear SFers Hi,

    I just discovered another sales opportunity which I felt like sharing with you.

    At the site of gentlemensweardaily (GWD) a great number of Calabrese1924 knit ties are offered at €60.00 from €90.00, a 33% discount. The 100% silk knit ties are either solids, solids with dots, solids with horizontal stripes, solids with birdseye dots, or bi-color ones; the 100% wool knit ties are solids. All knit ties are made at 6cm of width. You may find posted an indicative color from each one of the above make-ups:

    a) Solid 100% silk:

    [​IMG]


    b) Solid with dots 100% silk:

    [​IMG]


    c) Solid with horizontal stripe 100% silk:

    [​IMG]


    d) Solid with birdseye dots 100% silk:

    [​IMG]


    e) Bi-color 100% silk:

    [​IMG]


    f) Solid 100% wool:

    [​IMG]


    Alas, as I mentioned above, all knit ties are 6cm wide, a quite slim proposition for a lot of gentlemen including myself.

    Has any of you fellow SFers experience with Calabrese1924 knit ties? I feel that this is a very interesting brand from Napoli, Italy; please do comment as some of us would probably like to explore it and enjoy its beautiful knit ties.

    Cheers,

    Dimitris
     
  14. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    Have you received the dark blue melange knit tie yet?

    Please post photos in the wild, and share your impressions!

    Cheers,

    Dimitris
     
  15. magneto78

    magneto78 Active Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 4, 2012
    This year I have started a knit tie collection.
    Because there is very little information out there about the differences between ties, I have mostly had to rely on trial and error to find examples of ties to my liking. Below I will list the ties I have purchased and my experience with each brand. I will list them in order from my most favorite to my least favorite.

    At the top of the pile would be to knit ties I purchased from Paul Stuart ($89.50). One black. One royal blue. These are made in Italy of a thick luxurious silk with slightly open weave, a slight sheen, and a silky smooth hand. The edge of the tie is finished in a slight sawtooth pattern. It has a perfect weight, which drapes beautifully. I have worn these with both suits and with more casual attire.

    Next on the list would be a navy tie manufactured by Drake's ($112). This tie is made of a super crunchy silk woven in Germany. The silk is more dull, making it slightly more appropriate for casual attire. The weave of the silk is tighter here, with less space between the silk. The tie has less drape than the Stuart counterpart possibly due to its very dry hand. The edge of the tie is again finished in a sawtooth pattern. Overall this tie still feels very solid and expensive, just less luxurious. I would never have purchased this item at its full retail of $165. It's also marginally slimmer than the others listed here.

    3rd I have an orange knit made of Italian silk by Gitman Vintage (115). The silk here is less crunchy than the first 2 examples with a weave falling somewhere in between them. The end of the tie is finished in a straight tip, with no sawtooth. Still a beautiful tie with a very nice weight and a silky hand. One notable annoyance is that the tie is constructed in such a way, that when the tail is placed through the keeper, it produces 2 notable dimples in the front of the tie. Easily avoidable by not using the keeper but still odd.

    4th I have a sage green tie from Chipp ($65). This tie is made of Italian silk that is almost identical to Paul Stuart in every way except one. It's lighter, having less silk and therefore feeling less expensive and having less drape. This tie was purchased solely based on the fact that I could not find the color elsewhere. Regardless, I find myself wearing it often.

    5, 6, and 7 are from brooks brothers. ($40 on sale). These will be returned when I have a chance. 2 are a dull wool silk blend made in Italy. The other is a navy/purple stripe jersey knit silk that is flimsy, I'll constructed with lumps everywhere, almost weightless, and has no business being constructed into a tie.

    Last I had 2 knits from The Tie Bar ($25). Light. Soft. Dull. Boring. Pretty much rubbish. I gave them away.

    My preference is for the crunchy "crie de la soi" offerings. I find these more suited to summer months when my work dress is slightly more casual. I prefer the classic straight tip but the pointed tip is also nice.
     
  16. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Well-Known Member

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    Aug 11, 2011
    Location:
    South East Asia
    I currently exclusively wear knit ties; I have RLPL, Tom Ford and those from Lanvin.

    Does anyone have any experience on Dunhill knit ties?They are made in Germany (similar to Hermes) and are from mulberry silk (apparently a high quality silk)
     
  17. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Chiang Mai, Thailand
    

    I bought a Dunhill tie 20 years ago with a nice conservative pattern - not sure how they are today. The construction was average and factory made.

    Almost all silk is Mulberry silk - so in this case it is clever marketing only.

    The leaf of the Mulberry tree or bush is fed to silk worms.

    We grow mulberry for silk and fruit on our farm on the hill above our workshop in the mountains of Northern Thailand.

    These photos are from yesterday when we were making cuttings to plant new trees. If you look carefully you can see that the first two photos have larger Mulberry leaves - these are for the silk worms to eat. The photo of the cuttings shows smaller leaves these Mulberry trees are for fruit. Our staff love Mulberry fruit so the smaller leaved variety will be planted near the workshop where they eat lunch. Along with mangoes, bananas, papayas and lots of other fruits...

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
  18. Marco85

    Marco85 Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2016
    Thanks for starting the thread, I do enjoy knit ties as well.

    Going through your list:
    - Square-end vs. pointed-end preferences: I prefer square-end. Even at work i still use those: true it's a tad more casual but with all the rest of your attire formal (e.g., shirt with cufflinks) it looks great.
    - Width: I like 7 cm
    - I like it crunchy but don't have a no strong point here.
    - I wear both in winter and summer.

    Makers: Brooks Brothers and Charvet. I find Hermès ones "too crunchy". I googled Sozzi, I think it could be an interesting one to try out, thank you very much for sharing @Bespoke DJP .

    Below my fav bbrothers

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Well-Known Member

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    Jun 14, 2015
    Hi everyone,

    With autumn upon us, I am expecting to see the new F/W offerings that known (and yet-to-be-known) on line vendors are going to carry.

    Still waiting for some intel on Calabrese1924 knit ties which have great F/W propositions as well!

    Thank you for sharing @Marco85, it seems a great tie! Can you specify please its width in cm?

    Cheers,

    Dimitris
     

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