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** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

chipshot

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One more hot day here. Whiskey Unlined Harvard...
 

EnglishShoes

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I'm really enjoying my Tan Scotch Grain Pembrokes at the moment. These will be my wet weather default shoe. Which product would be best for protection? The usual Saphir Cream and wax? Dubbin?



I haven't worn them in the rain yet but I've noticed that of you get a slash of water on them, they go really dark so I presume they are highly absorbent at the moment. Is this normal?
 

chipshot

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Did I read there is a length difference between lasts 325 and 335? My understanding was 335 is slightly wider in the toe box. Thanks ..
 

Farhad19620

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Did I read there is a length difference between lasts 325 and 335? My understanding was 335 is slightly wider in the toe box. Thanks ..



The 335 is slightly wider at the toe end that is correct, I did not notice any significant difference in the length between the two and prefer the fit of the 335 last myself.
 

ino68

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I'm really enjoying my Tan Scotch Grain Pembrokes at the moment. These will be my wet weather default shoe. Which product would be best for protection? The usual Saphir Cream and wax? Dubbin?



I haven't worn them in the rain yet but I've noticed that of you get a slash of water on them, they go really dark so I presume they are highly absorbent at the moment. Is this normal?

Keep in mind that the 'scotch grain' here is just regular leather with a grain pattern imprinted. While it may look harder wearing, it's no different than a regular dress shoe upper when it comes to water resistance.

Waxy leather treatments will likely darken the leather significantly, and may make them more prone to scuffs. GlenKaren shoe care makes a polish with sodium bentonite as the active water-resisting compound, I have some but haven't tried it out on my Conistons yet.

http://glenkarencare.com/gkcp/water-resistant/
 

Nikola

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Good to know. I always thought grain leather is different and more rigid than regular calf.
 

Webbo

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As Autumn approaches a mans mind turns to wet weather shoes and I'm considering a pair of the Pembroke's in scotch grain. Does anyone have any views on this model and specifically how they age or hold up up over time?
 

bigbadbuff

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Keep in mind that the 'scotch grain' here is just regular leather with a grain pattern imprinted. While it may look harder wearing, it's no different than a regular dress shoe upper when it comes to water resistance.


While you're right that it is a pattern imprinted over older calfskin, that process does make it a harder wearing shoe and more weather resistant. There's a reason it is a common material on casual English shoes. If you call C&J for example and tell them you want a shoe with good water resistance this is what they are going to recommend to you...
 

Leonardo Da Vinci

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Hi guys. Small sizing question. I have a 7.5 UK in most C&J-shoes (348, 363) but size up half a size for the Coniston (325-last) to compensate for the shorter length. 

Now I would like to buy an oxford with more toe room then on the 348 or 363 last and I have my eye on the new Connaught in dark brown leather. think I should probably size up half a size to UK8 to compensate for it's shorter length compared to 363/348 lasts. 

Somebody who ha shoes on both 348/363 last and 236-last (like the Connaught)? Do you size up half a size for the 236-last?

Thx!


If it may helps I can give my opinion on some lasts you mentioned.

I own a 325 last and also a 236 last ( connaught model as the one you'd like to buy now.

If you have a normal shape of feet, I can say the connaught are roomier than a 325 lasted model.

Keep ind mind you also have to consider the shoes construction:

For example, the 325 last model I own is a pair of pembroke, which has a double sole, goodyear welt and dainite outsole. It's in grain calf and the most important thing, is a full brogued derby.

While for the connaught: it's an oxford cap toe model in calf, single leather sole.

The ball foot of the connaught is roomier than the 325 of the pembroke, but as I said before keep in mind the pembroke has a heavier construction, so there is less space for the foot inside.
Even the instep of the connaught is ok for me in comparison with other oxford models: as you know people with a high instep might have some problems with oxford shoes, but I say one more time, if you have a normal foot, you should not have any problems with the connaught
In my case I had to size up for the pembroke of 1 size even because I couldn't think to break them down wearing them, cause a brogued shoes it's very hard to loose, while a plain calf shoe will easily loose.
Just to add another detail: I also have the pembroke in 317 last that means G fittiing and in this case I wear the same size of the connaught.

I don't know how confy the 325 conistion were for you since the beginning, so, hope you can use my experience to have a more clear idea on the sizes.
 
Last edited:

Webbo

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If it may helps I can give my opinion on some lasts you mentioned.

I own a 325 last and also a 236 last ( connaught model as the one you'd like to buy now.

If you have a normal shape of feet, I can say the connaught are roomier than a 325 lasted model.

Keep ind mind you also have to consider the shoes construction:

For example, the 325 last model I own is a pair of pembroke, which has a double sole, goodyear welt and dainite outsole. It's in grain calf and the most important thing, is a full brogued derby.

While for the connaught: it's an oxford cap toe model in calf, single leather sole.

The ball foot of the connaught is roomier than the 325 of the pembroke, but as I said before keep in mind the pembroke has a heavier construction, so there is less space for the foot inside.
Even the instep of the connaught is ok for me in comparison with other oxford models: as you know people with a high instep might have some problems with oxford shoes, but I say one more time, if you have a normal foot, you should not have any problems with the connaught
In my case I had to size up for the pembroke of 1 size even because I couldn't think to break them down wearing them, cause a brogued shoes it's very hard to loose, while a plain calf shoe will easily loose.
Just to add another detail: I also have the pembroke in 317 last that means G fittiing and in this case I wear the same size of the connaught.

I don't know how confy the 325 conistion were for you since the beginning, so, hope you can use my experience to have a more clear idea on the sizes.

Could I ask how the Pembroke compares on the different lasts please?
 

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