1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by david3558, Feb 24, 2011.

  1. Tomboys

    Tomboys Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    KPDarb--

    Years ago, I purchased a pair of Chiltern and they felt a little big, but not so much that I needed a smaller size. So, I contacted the CJ store that I bought them from and they sent me a custom-cut pair of leather insoles at no cost (if memory serves me correctly, I don't think they even charge me postage (UK to USA)) to remove some of the shoe's volume. I took them to my local cobbler and had him tack them in. They fit perfectly after that.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2017
  2. KPDarb

    KPDarb Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    833
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2015
    That's great. Thanks for the info! I'll be sure to reach out if I come across any issues. On another note, I've always like the Chiltern as a casual chukka and since I sold my Alden chukkas there's a gap in my lineup.
     
  3. Crat

    Crat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,878
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2011
    
    The transition from upper leather to welt will look different from other shoes due to the welted veldtschoen construction. The "soft" bit on to of the welt that you describe is actually not the welt but the upper leather that is folded out on top of the welt. The actual welt is situated underneath the upper. By folding the upper over the welt like this water can't seep into the gap that exists between the upper and the welt of a shoe with an ordinary welted construction. Uppers folded out, welt showing underneath the uppers. [​IMG] This diagram (no.3) might also help explain the construction. [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  4. ShooIn

    ShooIn Active Member

    Messages:
    33
    Joined:
    May 16, 2016
    Location:
    Cardiff, Wales
    [​IMG]

    Today - Edgware in Burnished Chestnut with the City Sole
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. KPDarb

    KPDarb Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    833
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2015
    This is awesome. Thanks, Crat. I love some factory photos
     
  6. SvelteDave

    SvelteDave Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2017
    @Crat

    Thank you for the diagram! That is really nicely informative.
    However regardless of if the Snowdons are of Veldtshoen or Welted-Veldltshoen construction the ‘extra leather’ shouldn’t be present. For the welted variant this is obvious but your diagram rather clearly shows that it is also to case for regular veltdshoen:

    [​IMG]


    Granted that for the regular veltdshoen construction there may be some indiscrepancies and not everything will be exact, but certainly not to the extent of having a gap of extra leather of almost 3mm where the diagram shows there should be none. It is as if the upper leather wasnt folded properly under itself.

    Anyways I will return the shoes. I have taken in what most said about the dents, and I do have to agree that it is more my knee-jerk reaction, however it snowed here pretty heavily the last couple of days and walking around even in the city, with the amount of snow and resulting slush/water, I am simply not convinced that water will not seep and be absorbed thorough the badly waxed welt and the ‘extra leather’. I was told that they will have a new batch in by the end of Febuary and depending on how that batch is maybe I will order them once more.

    I also asked if the Snowdon are of the regular Veltdshoen or Welted-Veldtshoen construction, looking at the diagrams I could swear that my fathers are of the welted-veldtshoen construction whereas these are clearly of the regular construction. It will be interesting to see if they changed the construction along with the leather.

    Having said all that, first off: thank you to All who commented and gave their opinons (@SuitedDx @katch @Nikola @zag73 @Churchill W @chipshot @alexSF )
    - they really were valuable and helped a lot; secondly:
    would there be any interest in making a project for Wleted-Veldtshoen construction Snowdons MTO?
     
  7. Churchill W

    Churchill W Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,046
    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    
    I'm not sure which construction they are using, but some people already have a GMTO going for a Zug Snowdon. There might be some spots left. http://www.styleforum.net/t/362536/crockett-jones-mto-central/6200_100#post_8733241
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  8. Isbister

    Isbister Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    216
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Kent, UK
    It is quite in order - in fact quite necessary - for the upper, or 'extra leather' as you call it, to be where it is with a veldtschoen construction. 'Folded properly under itself' is simply a nonsense. The 'bumps' your pictures showed may or may not be significant, although they looked quite likely to have been caused in transit - simple knocks of the sort which would happen anyway, assuming it was your plan to wear the boots at some point. The quality of the welt stitching didn't seem quite as I would have expected, however.
     
  9. alexSF

    alexSF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,433
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2009
    Location:
    Italy
    
    C&J Snowdown boots are constructed with Veldt N°3 (on the diagram above) The welt is underneath the folded upper (the part visible from the outside) You are talking of: "badly waxed welt and the ‘extra leather’" which is very odd. Your boots are perfectly fine, the only minor concern is about the "bumps" on the toes, caused (I think) by slightly loose lasting and depends more from the construnction itsef. Due to Veldt construction nature the toe lasting maching can't stretch the toe as much as classic welted shoes: [​IMG] this mark: [​IMG] is obviously caused by toe lasting machine and is pretty normal. It is invisible on standard welted shoes because it is covered by welt stitiching
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  10. SvelteDave

    SvelteDave Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2017
    I used 'folded' to describe how it is shown in the diagram that @Crat provided, no offense meant.

    When referring to the badly waxed welt I am quoting what the Crockett rep concluded after I sent pictures and a video of the shoe, and it is in reference to the side of the sole where the upper leather touches the sole the raw leather can be seen when slightly pressed, I hope that makes sense as it is rather hard to describe. And what I meant by the 'extra leather' is that the distance between where the toecap ends and the stitch begins is twice the length, maybe more, on these then on my fathers Snowdons. It is because I didn't know how much of an issue either of the things I noticed is on the Snowdons, as I personally didnt own a pair of veldtshoen, I made the post to ask.
    So thank you to you both for the information and your opinions, it was great to learn some now things [​IMG]

    It seems that it is more of a 'when does a pebble become a stone' kind of situation, and happily I was able to reach a solution with Crockett, and will ask them if they do or can do a welted-veldtshoen construction as that seems like a really interesting construction.

    Once again thank you to all for your time and help!
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  11. alexSF

    alexSF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,433
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2009
    Location:
    Italy
    

    Some points:

    1 your boots are already constructed with welted-veldtschoen construction
    2 you must say "badly waxed folded upper" not welt (the welt is underneath)
    3 "extra leather" (now I understand) is random, can vary, nothing to worry about.

    but the real point is...these are boots! rugged boots! so enjoy them, don't baby/overcare them :)

    PS:
    See how these shoes are made:


    and consider the difference between welted vs welted-Veldtschoen construction
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  12. lagsun

    lagsun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    898
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2008
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    The Conistons I ordered from The Tannery arrived yesterday, taking 6 business days to the US West Coast. It seems more of a brick & mortar operation with a small e-commerce component as I had to email a couple of times to get my tracking number. Otherwise great service and price with the exchange rate and sale. I switched out the C&J tan laces with Alden brown flat laces and I'm also thinking of having my cobbler replace the blind eyelets with brown exposed eyelets. I like the look of them on my Islays and Cardigan 4s. [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  13. katch

    katch Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    855
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2012
    Location:
    NY, NY
    
    Those rock! I like the flat alden laces. I did the same with my RLxCJ Lindrick.
     
  14. Nikola

    Nikola Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,473
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2013
    Crockett Jones is launching a new web page next week along with some new styles. I was bragging a lot on their Instagram page regarding how most of their new styles are too pointy and gravitating toward Italian design so they have let me know there's a new classically rounded style coming out. Hopefully it will be in Oxford/Derby.
     
  15. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,962
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
    Location:
    English Flower Garden
    interesting that @lagsun , I routinely switch out mine and replace with EG Galway laces, no contest :nodding:
     
  16. SvelteDave

    SvelteDave Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2017
    Awesome news re the new styles! Was wondering when they would finally get some new non-italian-design-inspired models. Cheers for the info, any idea on the date of the site re-launch?
     
  17. Nikola

    Nikola Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,473
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2013
    Not sure exactly when, as they only said it will be next week, however, I assume it will be February 1st.
     
  18. KPDarb

    KPDarb Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    833
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2015
    Next week, apparently.
     
  19. lagsun

    lagsun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    898
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2008
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    

    I aspire to own a pair of EG Galways :)
     
  20. Churchill W

    Churchill W Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,046
    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    
    Nice, looks like they're out of my size :(
     
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by