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question for Kabbaz.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jamesbond, Mar 12, 2005.

  1. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    Since I have a younger less affluent and more fashion conscious clientele then Mr. Kabbaz. Due mostly to our respective ages as opposed to price point.

    I have made plenty of shirts to be worn out. I myself wear most of my summer casual shirts worn out. with a square bottom and side slits not a vent. IT is a boxy cut. Slightly tapered through the waist and hips. My usual dress shirt is about 31-32" these come in around 28-29"

    When I make shirts to be worn out side of the pants as opposed to being tucked in with out a square bottom, then there is less curve at the tail and the hip measurement is reduced to prevent the shirt tail from flaring out.

    Ippolito in the Dominican Republic or ramon Puig in Miami make the best guayaberas. I have made a few in my day, but they are very time consuming to make. Lots of details. there is a cuban woman,Luz Amparo who works with Manny Toyo in NJ that can make a decent guayaberra.
     
  2. jcusey

    jcusey Well-Known Member

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    Computer engineers exist. Software developers exist. I don't believe that software engineers exist.
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Nitpicker.
     
  4. jcusey

    jcusey Well-Known Member

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    (jcusey @ Mar. 13 2005,15:24) Computer engineers exist. Software developers exist. I don't believe that software engineers exist.
    Nitpicker.
    Precise language is important. And that particular construction is a pet peeve of mine.
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Yes. Otherwise people feel that their words get twisted, and this can be upsetting. I will endeavor to be more precise in the future.
     
  6. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    Oh. Someone finally comes up with a difficult one. Congratulations and a gold star.
    There are those shirtmakers who would argue in the affirmative on this one. However, I would disagree ... and probably win the debate because they are all dead. Nonetheless, there are two schools of thought, as follows:
    I make my two-stitch single-needle seams (usually referred to as the "closing" seam for it is the one which closes the sides and sleeve from the tip of the tailvent to the cuff) 1/4" wide and flat. This seam, and the difficult finger "turning" required to accomplish it, can be done using the fingers, lays flatter, does not dig into one's 'love handles', and can be pressed (ironed) to remove puckering.
    Others make their seams as your question reads, 'as narrow as possible'. The only way to accomplish this is with a special sewing machine foot called a "scroll" foot. Within this foot is a small scroll of metal (logic knows no bounds, eh?). The two pieces of fabric are fed through this foot and (sc)rolled into a tight little cylinder as they pass under the needle and get stitched. This has, for me, a multitude of downsides: Firstly, the foot is not accurate and the amount of material being scrolled can vary from 1/8" to as much as 1/2". Multiply this by the four pieces of fabric and variations in finished size of as much as 1.5" can transpire. Secondly, the smaller seam is not flat, it is a cylinder. This cylinder ... a rather solid one ... can pucker and be difficult, if not impossible, to press 'flat' - in other words, without puckers. Thirdly, because it is not flat, it tends to dig in to the side of the wearer under the trouser waistband (unless, of course, one is wearing jeans in which case one would look stupid to tuck it in).
    Wear your gold star with pride, untuck your shirt, and marvel at how many words can be used to not answer a question.
     
  7. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    Music, maestro: Why is everybody always pickin' on me? I never said shirts shouldn't be worn out. As a matter of fact, even an old fart like me makes shirts to be worn untucked. I merely said that shirts with dress shirt tails should not be worn out. [​IMG] Edit: Title: Shirtmaker, in throes of catalogue deadline, throws hissy-fit. To further clarify, if you are making the hem flat (bell, square, "W") as a casual shirt hem with the stitching at least 1/4" up from the bottom, fine. If the hem is being made with a scroll foot as is commonly used on a dress shirt, tuck it in.
     
  8. andreyb

    andreyb Active Member

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    Here in Russia I read a course of lectures titled "Software Engineering". So, I believe that software engineering and software engineers are indeed exist... Â [​IMG] Andrey
     
  9. BjornH

    BjornH Well-Known Member

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    Yes, they exist. One point for Alex...
     
  10. imageWIS

    imageWIS Well-Known Member

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    Software engineers exist, can't say the same for shirtmakers however... [​IMG] Jon.
     
  11. familyman

    familyman Well-Known Member

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    Ok, so what does one do when wearing a sport coat and jeans? Honest question here. Should you be wearing a shirt designed to be left untucked in this situation? For some reason my brain says that it would look sillier to have an untucked shirt with a sport coat than to have the same shirt tucked into your jeans when wearing jeans and a coat.
     
  12. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Funny, my brain says something else: DON'T WEAR A SPORTCOAT WITH JEANS. But then my brain is pretty hidebound.
     
  13. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    My brain, out-of-step with the times according to many above, would agree with you. Unless you are wearing, for example, a knitted polo or other short shirt in which case I personally might wear it untucked, but wouldn't argue with those who tucked it.
     
  14. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    As well you must, obviously being unable to bring yourself to own a pair of bespoke, not-tight jeans. [​IMG]
     
  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Untucked. And if the sportcoat is the correct type (fitted, textured, and with a short skirt, and meant to worn with jeans,) it'll look fine. You Oxxford sportcoat will look stupid with jeans whether you tuck in your shirt or not.
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Finally, we agree on something.
     
  17. Buster

    Buster Well-Known Member

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    LA Guy,

    Can you give examples for good combinations of jeans-jacket-( and possible shoes). Can you back it up with photos. I am quite struggling with this look.

    B
     
  18. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Will try to do this. Photos will be harder. Will perhaps start a new thread. BrianSD might be able to give some good examples as well.
     
  19. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Will try to do this. Photos will be harder. Will perhaps start a new thread. BrianSD might be able to give some good examples as well.
     

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