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Proportion of buttondown shirts in a tailoring run

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by josepidal, Aug 12, 2007.

  1. josepidal

    josepidal Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking of getting a large number of shirts made as I may have the opportunity to pass by Asia in few months. I noticed that even buttondown shirts don't fit me well in RTW because my neck size is quite out of proportion to the shoulder sizes.

    If you were going to have a relatively large number of shirts made, what proportion would you have made in buttondown? I will be wearing a lot of business casual type stuff at least in the next couple of years, but figured I could readily pair dress shirts with point collars with trousers of various formality.
     
  2. NoVaguy

    NoVaguy Well-Known Member

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    If you don't like buttondown collars, don't get them. I don't think it's a required item in your wardrobe.
     
  3. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    I like them but in small quantities.

    I'm more of a spread collar guy but oxford cloth shirts are cool and really only work on in a BD.
     
  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Well-Known Member

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    I work on a ration of 1 buttondown to every three normal collar with a 1.2 multiplier applied to the buttondown half of the ratio after the 8th shirt of an order and an additional 1.1 multiplier on any shirt over 35 in my closet. Orders placed on days of a full moon get a multiplier of 1.063, unless the full moon is on a Friday in which case I do not apply said multiplier.
     
  5. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Well-Known Member

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    Jose, I tend to stay away from the various attacks that your posts seem to get, but with this latest post, I feel a need to tell you to just think for yourself and make your own mind. You seem to have mastered the sartorial fundamentals, and at this point should just do what you please without having to arrive at a consensus and needing the approval of others.
     
  6. redtree00

    redtree00 Well-Known Member

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    I work on a ration of 1 buttondown to every three normal collar with a 1.2 multiplier applied to the buttondown half of the ratio after the 8th shirt of an order and an additional 1.1 multiplier on any shirt over 35 in my closet. Orders placed on days of a full moon get a multiplier of 1.063, unless the full moon is on a Friday in which case I do not apply said multiplier.

    Heretic !!

    How dare you not use the multiplier on full moon Fridays
     
  7. Master Shake

    Master Shake Well-Known Member

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    If you were going to have a relatively large number of shirts made, what proportion would you have made in buttondown?
    Zero.
     
  8. LabelKing

    LabelKing Well-Known Member

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    I've always wanted to try that infamous safety-pinned BD shirt combo of Astaire's.

    In fact, I was very tempted to buy a Yohji Yamamoto dress shirt that had an oversized safety pin built into the collar and then add buttons.
     
  9. lakewolf

    lakewolf Well-Known Member

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    I work on a ration of 1 buttondown to every three normal collar with a 1.2 multiplier applied to the buttondown half of the ratio after the 8th shirt of an order and an additional 1.1 multiplier on any shirt over 35 in my closet. Orders placed on days of a full moon get a multiplier of 1.063, unless the full moon is on a Friday in which case I do not apply said multiplier.

    Your formulas almost match mine ! I use a 1.054 multiplier on full moon days though...
     
  10. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    this thread pidals.
     
  11. dapperdude

    dapperdude Well-Known Member

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    Used to prefer BD collar, but I've taken to points lately for open-collar "business casual" wear. I plan to get 3 BD collars for wearing with sportcoats/blazers: one in white, one in blue, and one in a pattern.

    I would say it depends on how often you need to wear your shirts open-collar with a jacket.
     
  12. marc237

    marc237 Well-Known Member

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    After the 1st thousand, every 17th is BD.
     
  13. Will

    Will Well-Known Member

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    Some say a man needs OCBDs to wear under sweaters but for the most part I've lived happily without them.
     
  14. EL72

    EL72 Well-Known Member

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    I work on a ration of 1 buttondown to every three normal collar with a 1.2 multiplier applied to the buttondown half of the ratio after the 8th shirt of an order and an additional 1.1 multiplier on any shirt over 35 in my closet. Orders placed on days of a full moon get a multiplier of 1.063, unless the full moon is on a Friday in which case I do not apply said multiplier.

    Sure, but everyone knows that already. The more important question is the proportion of buttondowns with french cuffs vs. button cuffs.
     
  15. chorse123

    chorse123 Well-Known Member

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    I did no buttondowns until shirt number 25 or so. After that it's mix and match based on what I want. I really dislike buttondown collars on more formal fabrics, but don't mind spread colors on casual fabrics...
     
  16. oldog/oldtrix

    oldog/oldtrix Well-Known Member

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    I'm more of a spread collar guy but oxford cloth shirts are cool and really only work on in a BD.

    I respectfully dissent. Though I haven't seen them in RTW in several years, I have had regular oxford cloth (not pinpoint, not royal) shirts in a non-BD point collar of about 3 1/4 inches, much the same as a BD but without the buttons and a bit firmer interlining. In the traditional solid colors and university stripes, they work wonderfully with tweed jackets and flannel suits. They look best worn pinned, sort of a dressy/casual or casual/dressy look.
     
  17. oldog/oldtrix

    oldog/oldtrix Well-Known Member

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    I'm more of a spread collar guy but oxford cloth shirts are cool and really only work on in a BD.

    I respectfully dissent. Though I haven't seen them in RTW in several years, I have had regular oxford cloth (not pinpoint, not royal) shirts in a non-BD point collar of about 3 1/4 inches, much the same as a BD but without the buttons and a bit firmer interlining. In the traditional solid colors and university stripes, they work wonderfully with tweed jackets and flannel suits. They look best worn pinned, sort of a dressy/casual or casual/dressy look.
     
  18. Tarmac

    Tarmac Well-Known Member

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    if I don't like them = I don't buy any
     
  19. macuser3of5

    macuser3of5 Well-Known Member

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  20. JLibourel

    JLibourel Well-Known Member

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    Since I wear sport coats almost daily and suits but rarely, a considerable majority of my "dress" shirts are BDs, mostly (dare I say it?) from Costco.

    I also like the BD because I think it looks much better than the point collar when wore tieless or with an ascot. No offense to anyone here, but at least if I try to wear a point collar dress shirt open-necked, I think I look like holy hell--like some doofus who just shed his tie for Happy Hour. I will only wear a point collar dress shirt with a necktie.
     

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