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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Seph, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. jungleroller

    jungleroller Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,280
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    My untrained eye/opinion: Sleeves look too long. Chest a little too tight. Waist/Mid section too loose. :fonz:
     
  2. JackFlash

    JackFlash Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    850
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2012
    Make sure to launder 5 or so times before assessing fit. The shirt will shrink.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  3. ccallis

    ccallis Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    155
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2010
    Location:
    NY, NY
    
    Hey Tsujigiri-- Thanks for posting the photos. I'd go ahead and say wash and press the shirt so you get most of the shrinkage out. I think the sleeves might look a pinch long now, but ought to shrink to a good length after washing. Other than that, I'd probably bump up your chest width by about 1" as it looks pretty tight. Could take out .5" on midsection width, but only if you really want a slimmer fit. You could lengthen the shirt length by another 1.5" and bright down the cuffs by .5", as they look a little too wide. Looks like you're very close! Don't hesitate to shoot an email to contact@propercloth.com if you want any further help dialing in your fit. Chris
     
  4. Tsujigiri

    Tsujigiri Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    480
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    Location:
    Orange County
    Thanks everyone, that's really helpful. I'd agree that the chest is the most snug area, and I do have a little room that I could take in on the midsection. The sleeves also could be slightly shorter, although I don't think I can make the cuffs any smaller because the watches I usually wear are just barely fitting in the sleeve right now. Even with that, this is the best fitting shirt I've had so far, and this experience has sold me on the merits of MTM shirts. Chris, do you say that the shirt could be a little longer with a mind towards wearing it tucked or untucked?
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2014
  5. ccallis

    ccallis Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    155
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    Mar 10, 2010
    Location:
    NY, NY
    

    Yes, definitely could be another 1"-1.5" longer if you'd like to wear it exclusively tucked in.
     
  6. 4frnt

    4frnt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
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    Feb 6, 2010
    

    can we get a pic? I am curious to see how the black denim looks. Thanks
     
  7. BolognaFingers

    BolognaFingers Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    221
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2013
    Gonna wash it one more time then next time I wear it (which should be soon!) I'll get a pic up here. It will be good to also get some fit feedback, I definitely need to make some changes.
     
  8. BolognaFingers

    BolognaFingers Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    221
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    Dec 18, 2013
    Here is my denim shirt. Any suggestions on fit?


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  9. JackFlash

    JackFlash Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    850
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    Feb 22, 2012
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2014
  10. BolognaFingers

    BolognaFingers Well-Known Member

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    221
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    Dec 18, 2013
    Would that make it tighter in my armpit? That's what I'm afraid of.
     
  11. JackFlash

    JackFlash Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    850
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    Feb 22, 2012
    As long as you aren't changing the pit-to-pit measurement, then I don't think so. That's just my $0.02.
     
  12. roncfp

    roncfp Member

    Messages:
    10
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    Dec 2, 2013
    I'm no expert but I don't think you need to lengthen the sleeve if you shorten the yoke as the sleeve measurement is from the center of the yoke and not from the shoulder seam. Certainly Proper Cloth can help. They have provided outstanding service for me on well over a dozen shirts and will really work hard to get you the right fit. Brittany has been great to deal with on making adjustments.
     
  13. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,501
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2014
    Location:
    Québec, Canada
    Hi guys!

    I received my first Proper Cloth shirt and I'm seeking your advices as to how I can improve the fit and get perfect measurements stored for futures orders.

    I ordered a shirt made with the Ivory fine twill, English spread collar (I would've went with the President or Milano II spread but this shirt was made intentionally to be worn with a black bow tie, hence the classic-er collar), Tuxedo front placket, side pleats and French cuffs (onyx studs and cufflinks not yet acquired so not pictured). I also paid for MOP buttons.

    I'll post the pictures first and my comments afterward (please excuse the out of focus pictures, I had no remote control and had to rely on camera timer and luck):

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    What I like:

    - Basic measurements are dead on; collar diameter, yoke width, shirt length, cuff diameter, sleeve length, etc., are according to measurements. Collar is a tad loose but I haven't washed the shirt yet and Proper Cloth assures that the collar should shrink ¼-½" which would make it perfect - not too tight, not too loose.

    - Fabric feels good for one of their cheaper fabric (95$) and construction is of quality. Please keep in my I don't have experience with higher-end shirts such as Finamore, Barba, and the likes so I can't compare.

    - Customer service and turnaround time are perfectly acceptable. Website is a joy to use.

    What could be improved:

    - There's a lot of excess fabric in the midsection area. Still, I measured myself, got myself measured by my fiancee and double checked our measures. I checked the Slim Fit option so I'm not sure why the fit is so baggy.

    - I went with the Normal shoulder insertion but Slim forearm option. It gives the sleeve a too much aggressive taper (IMHO). Since there's some excess fabric in the shoulder area, I may have the shirt remade with the Tailored shoulder fit option. Maybe it will help reduce the sleeve wrinkles in the same time. Should I reduce sleeve length by 1"? I'm afraid that they appear the right length only because the cuffs lay against my wrist bone/hand junction.

    - I checked the Normal neck option but I think I should've checked the Backward neck option. There's a bump of fabric that bothers me, as if the yoke regurgitates over the back of the collar. Would checking the Backward neck option (½" or a full inch) would resolve the problem? It's hard to notice on the less-than-stellar blurry pictures I've submitted.

    I'll cross-post this post in the Tailor's thread to get more replies.

    Thanks guys and don't be afraid to hurt my feelings. I'm okay with critics. [​IMG]
     
  14. ccallis

    ccallis Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    155
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2010
    Location:
    NY, NY
    
    Hi BolognaFingers, Thanks for sharing the fit pics! Looks light you're really close here, but I'd still update your fit across the shoulders. I'd make the yoke .75" smaller, since the shoulders are hanging off of your natural shoulder line a bit (this won't make the armhole sit any higher, don't worry!). You won't need to adjust the sleeve length at all--we do our measurement from the back of the neck so if you change your yoke it won't change the sleeve length. Other than that the shirt looks really good. You could update the fit in the arm to be a little slimmer, but that will definitely make the armhole feel tighter--not sure if that's something you'd like to do. Chris
     
  15. aldenfan

    aldenfan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    824
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    Feb 26, 2013
    Has anyone experienced it where the chest of their shirt is a tad close/tight (but still wearable) but then the bottom shirt tail on the back is so it kind of hugs your rear and makes the shirt bunch up weird on your back? Like there is no drape to it. I don't think it would be too bad if it is tucked in, but untucked it looks weird.
     
  16. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,335
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    

    that is called. Shirt is too tight at the hips!
     
  17. aldenfan

    aldenfan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    824
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    Feb 26, 2013
    Dangit, I thought it was too tight. Is there a measurement for hips in the Proper Cloth patterns? I don't recall seeing that option even...
     
  18. Usonian

    Usonian Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    107
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2014
    What's the word with wearing these shirts untucked? I'd love to get a nice fitted oxford, but I don't want it to look like I'm wearing a dress shirt when I wear it untucked, which would be most of the time, since I have enough dress shirts to get by, I need more casual shirts.
     
  19. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,501
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2014
    Location:
    Québec, Canada
    I think the key is to have some shirts made (specifically) with the intent of being worn untucked. The common rule is to have them made 2" shorter than your dress (thus tucked) shirts. You don't want your casual shirts to cover your whole behind.
     
  20. BolognaFingers

    BolognaFingers Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    221
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2013
    I got mine shorter. I can tuck it, but its not ideal, and I only do so at work, where its casual but I need to tuck.
     

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