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PREFERENCE: Naturaly shoulder vs. moderately padded shoulder

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by eHaberdasher, Oct 27, 2011.

  1. SlamMan

    SlamMan Well-Known Member

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    Natural is my preference.
     
  2. Trompe le Monde

    Trompe le Monde Well-Known Member

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    depends on entirely on the intent of the jacket - business? formal? casual? fabric type and pattern?
     
  3. jgeldner

    jgeldner Well-Known Member

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    Here's a request for staples (Navy and Charcoal) in 46R/S
     
  4. JayJay

    JayJay Well-Known Member

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    I have broad shoulders but need a little padding to compensate for a dropped left shoulder.
     
  5. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    Are you suggesting he makes all his suits with stronger padding in the left shoulder? :lol:
     
  6. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Well-Known Member

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    Natural, but im talking like American Kiton/Attolini/Isaia, or even TF. If you are gong for something like a bespoke NSM which has no padding at all them im not sure the majority of the american market will go for that look. People on here sure, but from a business point of view a little padding wont hurt :)
     
  7. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

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    OK just to be clear - when I say "natural" there will actually be a VERY small pad - it won't be completely natural/unpadded. Will be experimenting a bit - hope some of you will be up to being a guinea pig.
     
  8. Grenadier

    Grenadier Well-Known Member

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    Natural. With a 3-roll-2 button configuration.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2011
  9. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    Surely, the only answer, as in all questions like this is that, though he may have a preference for one or the other, a gentleman needs jackets of each configuration for any eventuality?
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2011
  10. Mr Engineer

    Mr Engineer Well-Known Member

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    natural or none for when going out....padded for business
     
  11. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

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    Here's a sample of the Benjamin Sartorial "Napoli" natural shoulder model in a suit... almost no shoulder padding. What do you guys think? Too casual of a shoulder for a suit? I like it but I'm curious to hear what you gents have to say.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Seems entirely reasonable to me.

    I'm actually in the midst of weighing bald vs natural for a fresco suit with patch pockets, so I'll be following the responses to your query closely.
     
  13. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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    I am a purist. That is not a natural shoulder. I have a wonderful Isaia suit purchased from eHaberdasher
    in '07, I believe. It is the now discontinued "Stuart" model, i think. I had my tailor remove the "minimal padding",
    which was less than the example shown above.
     
  14. CaymanS

    CaymanS Well-Known Member

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    I agree with Comrade - I think you could get by with even less padding. But it looks very promising. Apart from the sleeve length, it looks damn near perfect. Zegna has been moving toward a natural shoulder, as have others. I think it's going to start to be an industry standard. The overdone padding is flattering on very few builds.
     
  15. kasakka

    kasakka Well-Known Member

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    Shoulder looks fine, though I think a different sleeve attachment (slightly roped if there is such a thing) would look better here. Not a fan of the absurd gorge and high buttoning point though.
     
  16. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    I'm actually pretty interested in why people (especially those across the pond) prefer unpadded/natural shoulders. Is there a particular reason -- is this perhaps, a logical progression from Brooks Brothers' sack coats that one wears in university?
     
  17. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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    To a certain extent, Yes. Many of us grew up with the "Ivy" League look. For several decades, 50s and 60s it was the national
    elite standard style. Prior to that it was the style of the Eastern WASP elite and it's branches in such places as Chicago and
    San Francisco. My style has evolved over the years, but I have always retained the natural shoulder preference. It also happens
    to suit my build.
     
  18. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    Natural doesn't mean unpadded. The recent fad for non-existent shoulder padding is out of control. A lot of guys benefit from a bit of pad, and some of the unstructured stuff that's become the fashion on SF and the blogosphere lately looks positively shlumpy.

    I like a lightly padded natural shoulder, but the pendulum's swung to an extreme -- never a good sign.
     
    3 people like this.
  19. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I just really like the feel of them. Also, I have the right shoulders for it.
     
  20. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

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    I worked for Grieco Brothers back in the early to mid 90's when they were making for Brooks Brothers, Southwick, PRL and Paul Stuart - probably why I prefer the softer shoulder. I'm living here in London now and really don't like the shoulders in general here... but who knows if I'm here long enough maybe it'll grow on me.
     

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