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Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montesquieu, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Pardon my ignorance but I'm really confused now. I thought that the cutter/fitter influences the shape, fit of the suit - the tailor pieces it all together.

    If Luca's the one that's travelling and he's the one doing the fitting, won't the garment then take on whichever 'style' he represents?


    Neither Luca nor Mariano are cutters. They may take initial measurements and liaise with the tailor who is making your garment during fittings, and they are responsible for the ultimate outcome, but they aren't in the back cutting cloth or sewing.

    The bespoke seem to fit better but the styling on the MTM seems more attractive to me - I can't really explain it but I think the MTM ones are better looking garments. The cut on #5 is especially unflattering IMO - makes him look chubby.

    I think the MTM Attolini dinner suit is one of the worst, and arguably the worst, of the whole bunch. It really looks just like RTW adjusted by a lazy alterations tailor. Not too hot on the style, either: the peaks looks like they are going to lift-off at any given moment.

    That said, the other MTM example is much better looking. I don't understand the discrepancy. I can see why one might prefer it over the bespoke, but chest shaping is really important to me.
     
  2. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    I think they all look great in their own way. I'd be happy with any one of them. All of them seem to have a more relaxed style than one often sees which I appreciate. They are not clean and lean. The one thing I might suggest is to lower your next commission a half inch. On some items the quarters seem a bit scrunched.

    Thanks for the comparison! Very gracious of you.
     
  3. mmkn

    mmkn Well-Known Member

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    For your body habitus, Attolini [and maybe Liverano & Liverano].

    - M
     
  4. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Well-Known Member

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    I think they all look great in their own way. I'd be happy with any one of them.

    I can't say that about the Steeds.

    Vox' Steeds make me want to meet with Edwin and yet these do not.
     
  5. Doxe

    Doxe Well-Known Member

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    Montesquieu,

    Which of the suits feels like it fits your body the best?

    The reason I ask is that in the past Vox has had people comment that his Solito fits better than his Steed, only to be told by Vox that the Steed is more shapely and fitted and the 2 dimensional picture does not capture the full shape of the suit.

    Also, what are the weights of the fabrics on the Steed suits? My own experience is that a suit needs to settle on the body. Usually the heavier the cloth the longer it takes for the suit to properly conform. Does this explain the odd collar roll on the Steeds above the button?

    Fit notwithstanding, I love the fabrics you've chosen. Particularly the Steed #5 and the Attolini #1.

    Thanks for posting your pics and opening yourself to potential (inevitable) criticism (abuse).
     
  6. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    I think you should focus more on your pants than on the jackets. While some of the coats are better than others, they are all, at worse, very servicable. Your pants, on the other hand.......


    The Attolini bespoke looks best of all to me. The brown rubinacci jacket seems to have a loose collar and is just not that sharp looking. The Attolini overcoat is weird. The 3 buttons and the high pockets are not that attractive.
     
  7. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Well-Known Member

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    The last one, the Castangia, looks best to me. I like the fit of everything about it, and I think it would probably look better yet without the sweater.

    I dont think any of them look bad. I like the way that the first Attolini fits, and the Attolini navy pinstripe.

    I like the first Rubinacci except the pant. Maybe their Naples shop would work better, the stuff they're putting out for Foo, Matt and Whnay look fantastic.
     
  8. niidawg3

    niidawg3 Well-Known Member

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    I'll say:

    1. Castangia
    2. Rubinacci
    3. Attolini








    n. Steed (just cause i have to rate them)

    I think you need to go with Attoliini shoulders and Rubinacci waist suppression/quarters.

    The Steeds are attrocious (i'm being particularly harsh on them cos they are bespoke).
     
  9. TRINI

    TRINI Well-Known Member

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    I think you should focus more on your pants than on the jackets. While some of the coats are better than others, they are all, at worse, very servicable. Your pants, on the other hand.......

    Could you be more specific on this?
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    I like the first Rubinacci except the pant. Maybe their Naples shop would work better, the stuff they're putting out for Foo, Matt and Whnay look fantastic.


    Are you trying to start a controversy here?
     
  11. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Well-Known Member

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    I think the sweaters throw them off, steed #3 (red check) looks much better without the sweater.
     
  12. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    Could you be more specific on this?

    sure, buy my pants [​IMG]

    but seriously, I think if he is going to wear the no break trousers, the openings have to be narrower (as was mentioned earlier). Also, on the some of the wool pants, there is a lot of extra fabric in the thigh/upper area. It flares out to the side, on a similar pair I had heismatt said it looked like I was wearing a colostomy bag. I think the Steed's suit pants look a bit incongruent with the jacket, the coat is rather fitted and the pants look like bags in the upper area.


    All that being said, Monti should be commended for posting this stuff for our scrutiny, it is one thing to talk about this brands but quite another to see them in the flesh and also quite informative.
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Are you trying to start a controversy here?
    There is nothing controversial about how exceedingly fantastic I look.
     
  14. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Well-Known Member

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    Just focused on the jackets and their silhouette, I felt the Rubi's were the cleanest.
     
  15. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Well-Known Member

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    There is nothing controversial about how exceedingly fantastic I look.

    Thanks for filling in during Vox' absence.
     
  16. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    I felt the Rubi's were the cleanest.
    Agreed, but I don't think that's a full-on advantage.
    Thanks for filling in during Vox' absence.
    Just to be clear, I am only acting in Vox's place, not mimicking him. I only mimic Iammatt. I think we're stilly going steady, but I can't be for sure about it on his end.
     
  17. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Well-Known Member

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    Just to be clear, I am only acting in Vox's place, not mimicking him. I only mimic Iammatt. I think we're stilly going steady, but I can't be for sure about it on his end.

    As long as you use chicken livers in your bolognese you're in.
     
  18. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Well-Known Member

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    Agreed, but I don't think that's a full-on advantage.

    How do you mean? For me, the silhouette and drape are a direct result of how most of the rest of the jacket fit. A little bit off in the chest, shoulders or waist would totally throw off the hourglass shape, or make it a bit more angular rather than a nice round curve (like the Attolinis and Steeds). Am I looking at the fits wrongly?
     
  19. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Well-Known Member

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    Are you trying to start a controversy here?

    Too late!
     
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    As long as you use chicken livers in your bolognese you're in.
    I would use chicken livers in everything if I could. However, my month-long attempt to diet away fifteen pounds prevents me from enjoying life.
    How do you mean? For me, the silhouette and drape are a direct result of how most of the rest of the jacket fit. A little bit off in the chest, shoulders or waist would totally throw off the hourglass shape, or make it a bit more angular rather than a nice round curve (like the Attolinis and Steeds). Am I looking at the fits wrongly?
    Part of what I love about the Rubinacci jackets that come out of Naples is the chest shaping. I don't know what tailors call it technically, or how they explain it, but I like it when the cloth of the chest forms a subtle bowl under where one's pectoral muscles are. You almost never see it in RTW and the Milanese Rubinacci jackets posted here exhibit none of it, either.
     

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