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Pitti Uomo 83 - Streetwear&Denim edition _ daily roundup

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Jan 8, 2013.

  1. jet

    jet Well-Known Member

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    Hey fok how did you trick her into marrying you?

    Like dat sns.
     
  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    I'm home after a whirlwind week, so it's as good a time to post some pictures as any. Here are some looks from Monitaly, including a completely awesome blue bomber with a fur collar from Monitaly that Yuki called "very conservative", Yuketen boots and a dark green version of their "English" bag, and one of the big trends (one with I love) that was super strong for FW12, and continues even stronger into 2013, jersey jackets in pressed wool, boiled wool, etc... there is one from Ts(S) and from one of my favorite new (well, 6 seasons old) label Harris Wharf London:

    Monitaly:
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    Yuketen:
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    Jersey Jackets from

    Ts(S):[​IMG]


    Harris Wharf London:

    Some of the collar "meltons" are more obvious - they are meant to be worn up, more like a mandarin collar than anything else. Some of them are really interesting and subtle, like this one, which uses contrasts a houndstooth with a herringbone.
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    Last edited: Jan 13, 2013
    4 people like this.
  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Maybe I'm really good in bed, like the Sartorialist. Yeah, the S.N.S Herning collection was terrific. I think that you might like some of he Harris Wharf stuff for casual use as well. I find my jacket from them as comfortable as a cardigan, but more streamlined. You can throw it over a tee, and you are good to go. If you are going out at night in LA, add a scarf or something. It's a company run by a brother and sister whose family owns a mill, so all of the fabrics they use, including the boiled and press wool jerseys, often double sided, for winter, are proprietary. A lot of Japanese and European stockists, but so far, only Barney's carries them in the States. Price in the States is about $625 for the patterned wools, or 400 Euros or so, including VAT.
     
  4. JilSlander

    JilSlander Well-Known Member

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    Awesome pics, LA Guy.

    Do you know if you saw any Engineered Garments there? I believe they're also showing at Pitti.
     
  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    I did, and I said hi to Angelo and Daiki, briefly. They have a strict no pictures policy, however, so unfortunately, I can't post any pictures. Of course, you'll still probably see some bootleg pictures other places, probably during the American shows.
     
  6. Peter1

    Peter1 Well-Known Member

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    I can't even begin to describe how much I love what Yuketen does -- my big complaint with Russell, Quoddy, Rancourt, OSB etc. is that they're basically making the same shoe/moc as one another. But Yuketen has really stretched out the USA Handsewn brand. Now I wish they were about 50% cheaper but that's the price for creativity, I guess. Ah well, someday...
     
  7. jet

    jet Well-Known Member

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    Fok, I will check out the harris wharf stuff. Looks good and I need some unstructured jackets/blazers.
     
  8. slstr

    slstr Well-Known Member

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    Yeah the harris wharf stuff looks perfect, barely any stockists though [​IMG]
     
  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Yuki is also hilarious. For example, I asked him about the "teeth" on the boots, and he told me "like a shark", which was the most succinct description I've heard for a while. He really has fun with his designs while working really hard on them. It might be a west coast thing. He is based in CA, while a lot of the other brands are based in NYC. The lookbook is nothing ponderous either. Once I get it in my hands (it is hardcover, and not generally released - I'm not sure what the point of it is, actually) I'll scan some of the photos. The narrative has two of his guys ("We are a cheap company, we use all our employees as models" was what he said) going on a hunt over some vintage Louis Vuitton luggage, and then, after some chases and fisticuffs, having a drink together.


    Yeah - well, it's sold at Nitty Gritty Store, and at e35, and the German Bazar Royal (www.bazarroyal.com). It fits slightly bigger than Barena. I take a 48 in both, but I could easily size up to a 50 in Barena jackets for a more relaxed fit (btw, do not try to wash your Barena sweaters without a stretching rack. Mine has been skin tight for a while, and has just started to relax up a bit). A size 50 in Harris Wharf London is too big on my frame.
     
  10. jet

    jet Well-Known Member

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    Then I'd be a 50 thanks.
     
  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    And now, for something completely different. The Ohba leather goods company makes completely handmade leather goods with the best leathers sourced all over the world. Every stitch is perfect and by hand. Apparently, they became famous for making the school satchels (shown here in blue) for the children of the Japanese Royal family. The inside of one briefcase was completely handpainted the way a kimono would be. i wish that I'd brought along Rach to translate.

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    3 people like this.
  12. hendrix

    hendrix Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. Yuketen collection inspired by Italian Bentivegna constructed shoes?

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  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Could be, but he didn't tell me that. Rach talked with Yuki in more depth, so maybe we'll hear more about that in the coming weeks.
     
  14. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Well-Known Member

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    That blue bag in the 5th pic, but in black. :inlove:
     
  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Details: Nigel Cabourn and Individualized Shirts

    The beauty of Nigel Cabourn's stuff is really in the details, so we took a few shots of them. Here they are:

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    Similarly, a shirt is a shirt is a shirt. Yes, you can have better or worse construction, you can have better or worse notions, there maybe handsewn button holes, and there are tons of styles of collars and cuffs, but mostly, it's tweaks. If you have a few good shirts, what really distinguishes them is the fabrics. Here are some of the more interesting (subjectively so, of course) soft, washed, fabrics used in the FW13 Individualized Shirts collection, which included bengal stripes, faded solids, and classic plaids, as well as rustic herringbone tweed jackets, all made in the US:

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    1 person likes this.
  16. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Well-Known Member

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    How were the collars on the INdividualized shirts? I've bought some from CHCM Shop and dug the fabrics and fit but the collars were sorta JCrew-y--too small for my taste and not small enough to be, like, an intentional design choice like on some recent Jil shirts.

    Also, what's the deal with them in general? Aren't they really a MTM outfit? Was surprised to see them in CHCM and in some .jp stores and now they're wholesaling?
     
  17. jet

    jet Well-Known Member

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    bags are sick any idea price range?
     
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  18. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    I haven't been inside a J.Crew in years, so I'm not sure. The collars (you can see them in some of the pictures), looked pretty standard to me. The reason for doing wholesale is obvious. If you do MTM and housebrand for retailers, a great part of the infrastructure you need to do wholesale is already there, and wholesaling is clearly more lucrative. They have an established name, so it's obvious for them to capitalize on it.

    Rach is familiar with the brand, and can speak to this. I don't know, myself.
     
  19. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 15, 2013
  20. jet

    jet Well-Known Member

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    ya i was on the site, prices are not bad
     

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