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PINCH TEST

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by davemax, Feb 16, 2012.

  1. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Well-Known Member

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    To correctly perform the pinch test, you have to be able to remove the outer fabric from the canvas and be able to rub the separated fabric against itself. It should feel like the fabric in the sleeves (minus the lining) when rubbed together. If there is something in between the fabric you pinched and you cannot easily separate the interloper, then that is fusing. If on the other hand, you can rub the fabric against itself, there is no fusing.

    Half canvas is supposed to be glued on the bottom half and stitched on the top half. Don't have any pieces in front of me, but IIRC, the same rules apply and you can feel the fusing down at the bottom.
     
  2. MSAWTF

    MSAWTF New Member

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    Yes I see exactly what you are saying. There is a different material attached to the outside fabric.It is the same color as the fabric so I couldn't tell at first look and it really attached so it seems like one fabric, but the material on the chest is certainly thicker than the sleeves as a result.

    I have since gone to Nordstroms and began pinch testing every suit on the their rack, dodging various sales people who were annoyed, and discovered a key difference. You can really tell on the Hickey Freeman and Canalis what it should feel like. The outside layer should literally feel exactly like the sleeves on top of the canvas. It is actually a thin layer of fabric which pulls away very easily. pulling back the breast pocket slightly helps to identify this. The half canvas is annoying because it is harder to separate and I think after my inspection, they mostly are fused canvas anyway. I also wonder if I was damaging some of the half canvas suits as I could start to hear the fabric pull away slightly when seperating it.

    Which begs the question, is there is a lower end real canvassed option? Or do you really have to move up to Hickey and Canali to get a real canvas suit?

    I also think there is something to be said for the 346 after tearing it apart. While it certainly isn't of the quality of a canvassed suit, there is a canvas like piece for structure and it isn't that far off some of the higher end half canvassed suits which cost 3 times more. The fabric is really weak though with a blend of wool and spandex basically.
     
  3. phoenixrecon

    phoenixrecon Well-Known Member

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    346 is a floating chest piece fused suit.... very far off from half canvassing....
     
  4. MSAWTF

    MSAWTF New Member

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    Right but Hart Shaffner Marx is floating canvas chest piece fused suit for twice the price and three times when they are in sale. I believe Boss is the same as well for 3 times the price. That is all I meant about the 346.
     
  5. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Well-Known Member

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    Which half canvassed pieces were you pinch testing? The only ones I know of that Nordy's sells is Burberry & HSM Gold Trumpeter, haven't seen the GT at my local store, only the white tag. Can't remember if those were half or not.

    Brooks Brothers mainline suits are a pretty good example of half canvassing IIRC.

    Honestly, I don't think 99.5% of the people out there will be able to tell whether your suit is half canvas or full. Thus, if you would rather save some cash, why the fuck not buy half canvas? I stay away from fused because they usually cut so many corners I notice and couldn't stand it. I don't think 99% of the people out there would be able to tell if a suit was fused, although they can always spot a poorly crafted garment. Exception: JAB Executive suit in black. For some reason people really like the look of it. I cannot explain it. Perhaps its the black color.
     
  6. Classic Car

    Classic Car Well-Known Member

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    Please explain what is a floating chest piece fused suit and the difference between half canvassing.
     
  7. CYstyle

    CYstyle Well-Known Member

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    +1 I know 2 well respected tailors SF approved that use high quality fusing in their suits as well. I think people on SF get caught up too much on canvassing and fusing terms, yet in reality given a high quality handmade garment with light fusing most wouldn't be able to tell at all.

    High quality fusing on light and difficult fabrics can keep the suit cleaner, otherwise without it there may be a lot of puckering etc.
     
  8. blahman

    blahman Well-Known Member

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    Please read this very informative thread by the venerable Jeffy: http://www.styleforum.net/t/269171/canvas-and-suit-construction

    That thread along with Vox's need to be blown up and highlighted somewhere and some way that's easily spotted.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2012
  9. Classic Car

    Classic Car Well-Known Member

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    Shall I understand floating chest piece is without padded lapel as half canvas?
     
  10. blahman

    blahman Well-Known Member

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    Most suits, whether fused, have a chest piece. Half canvassed suits are like a hybrid of canvassed and fused: fusing on jacket but doesn't reach the lapels which are pad stitched; and canvassing on jacket that tend not go far below the first button.
     
  11. Maccimus

    Maccimus Well-Known Member

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    It is very very difficult to tell if the jacket has some thin fusibles.
     
  12. Twotone

    Twotone Well-Known Member

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    1 person likes this.
  13. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Well-Known Member

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    I agree. When I pinch tested my vintage sports coat, I actually was able to peel off the outer fabric from the front and back of the canvas which created that fabric separation sound. It was pretty addicting to listen. I actually started doing that on all of my sports coat just to hear that sound. lol

     
  14. Colin Maillard

    Colin Maillard Member

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    This so-called "pinch test" is a crap urban tale which has no relevance whatsoever. As most of all "homemade" checks one may make basing on forums advices and bloggers' tutorials. All this chatting about unrelevant details which tell nothing about the real quality of a suit is just a goldmine for crap brands - that can easily implement these details to make customers happy. Also it's fun how everyone takes for granted the difference of quality among fused, canvassed, half-canvassed suits - just because "someone" on the net reported they're better.

    If you want to know the quality of your suits just be humble, shut your laptop off and take them to a real, reputed, possibly old tailor, someone who actually works with garments and knows about cloths and tailoring, and ask his opinion. Or become a tailor yourself (this means... studying cloths and getting familiar with stitching procedures, construction proportions, measuring techniques etc.).
     

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