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Pictures of new suit -- comments welcome

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by boston, Apr 17, 2005.

  1. boston

    boston Well-Known Member

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    Hello all: I just got my new suit and have posted some pictures below. Comments are welcome. Details: full canvas with pick stitching and working buttons. The material is a 70 or 80, with sort of a diagonal twill pattern (very faint). A mix of hand and machine work, but very comfortable and soft. This is the hard wearing work horse suit. I am particularly interested in what people think about the fit, particularly gorge height, button stance, and waist suppression. I think the gorge is a little too low, but the tailor recommended against moving it higher. I think the button stance is just right, but the tailor wanted it to be lower. The waist suppression is less than I usually get, but I think the suit drapes very nicely as it is and when I pull in the back the jacket does not look any better. Also, please ignore the creases at the bottom of the jacket -- it just came out of the box. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] -boston
     
  2. tdial

    tdial Well-Known Member

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    Atlanta, GA
    It's always difficult to say from pictures, but here are my impressions from the photos:

    The gorge does appear too low to me. I think this is because the lapels are wider, and with that lower gorge, it just looks funny to me.

    The shoulders look a little too wide, though it's hard to tell without knowing exactly where your shoulders are. The jacket appears a little long.

    Manton's going to go nuts over those sleeve buttons, but it does look like they are slightly too high on the sleeves.

    And from the picture, the pants look a bit too long. They shouldn't have that bunching at the shoe.

    I don't think the button stance is too high. That looks just fine to me, though it looks like it's made to be a true 3 button suit (meaning the top is made to be fastened).
     
  3. Carlo

    Carlo Well-Known Member

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    Are you standing a little crooked maybe? I ask because there is a buckle on your left side betwixt the top and mid buttonholes. My right shoulder slopes due to having popped some tendons and I get that issue with EVERY jacket if it isn't bespoke.

    Am I seeing things or are you slouching perhaps?

    Otherwise, my only criticism would be that you need to tie your tie tighter in the collar... suit, oxygen - yada, yada yada... the whole point of the suit is to show off the tie.

    Seriously ....congrats, how does it feel and how do you feel wearing it?
     
  4. bch

    bch Well-Known Member

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    Very nice overall. Shoulders especially.

    I don't like hacking or ticket pockets as they draw too much attention, but that's just my taste. Trousers are too long, I think. Maybe the skirt is too full, also? Agree that the gorge could be a little higher, but it doesn't look bad where it is.
     
  5. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Well-Known Member

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    congratulations, it will definitely make a nice workhorse suit.

    I think the gorge, and button stance, and position of the buttons on the sleeve are fine.

    I think the jacket is a bit long, and I think it needs more waist suppression.
    I think the pants are a tad too long even for a full break.

    All minor stuff. Overall looks nice, and has a nice looking shoulder.
     
  6. odoreater

    odoreater Well-Known Member

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    I'm definitely not a pro or anything (not even an amateur really), but I think that suit looks pretty good on you. I actually kind of like the lower gorge. In fact, I think that for my next suit, which is going to be bespoke, I'll bring the tailor a picture of your suit (if you don't mind...er...even if you do, you'll never know [​IMG] ) because I like the way that it looks.
     
  7. newyorker

    newyorker Well-Known Member

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    Mar 30, 2005
    You look sharp in that suit.

    It's not perfect, but it's very good.

    Some things to think about (some of these have been mentioned by others):

    - higher gorge?
    - slightly narrower lapels?
    - lower button stance?
    - slightly shorter jacket?
    - perhaps straight (not slanted) pockets for your next jacket?

    I hope you enjoy your garment, it looks fine.
     
  8. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member

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    looks pretty good to me, sleeves maybe a tad short (?), pants maybe a tad long, but basically pretty good. congratulations and thanks for sharing.

    ps - do those cuff buttons up.
     
  9. Mike C.

    Mike C. Well-Known Member

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    The hacking pockets look a bit out of place paired with that fabric. Hacking pockets are usually paired with slightly heavier fabrics like tweeds.

    Also, the pants are way too long, consider getting them retailored. The lapels don't have a very modern shape either.
     
  10. alchimiste

    alchimiste Well-Known Member

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    What would a modern shape be?
     
  11. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Well-Known Member

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    The back looks very nice to me. Overall the suit is rather smashing. I think the lower gorge works with this suit. The pick-stitching is a nice touch.

    Just a few things I would do.
    I agree that the arms are a tad short. I would add 1/4" to them. The skirt I think could use more of an wider opening. I think a bit of steaming would make it better for us to judge. Steaming under the lapel will create a nice roll as I think they look a bit flat.
     
  12. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Well-Known Member

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    (Mike C. @ April 18 2005,09:14) The lapels don't have a very modern shape either.
    What would a modern shape be?
    ???? [​IMG]
     
  13. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member

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    hehe. idiot.
     
  14. Gatsby

    Gatsby Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Tokyo
    More or less agree with everything above. The only thing really out of place would be the lapels (i.e., prefer higher gorge/narrower), but in the end that's personal preference. pockets do draw a little too much attention, but again that's a personal call. must restate: button up the sleeves. trust me, people who know will be able to spot that they're working sleeves even when they're completely fastened. overall, looks good. [​IMG]
     
  15. alchimiste

    alchimiste Well-Known Member

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    I don't dislike the wider lapels but the gorge could be higher.
    The pants are too long (otherwise they look good).
    The sleeves are not of even length.
    It's always hard to argue over the silhouette because the quality/angle of the photo can be misleading.
    Some will say that shoes should have closed-lacing.
     
  16. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    Take these comments with a grain of salt -- it is tough to tell elements of fit and style from a picture, even a good picture. Also, let me also preface my comments by saying that I think it is a lovely suit that you should get much pleasure out of.

    (1) You might be better with a two button next time. But this is more preference.

    (2) The lapels are fine in and of themselves -- they sort of resemble Oxxford lapels -- but they don't quite match up with the other details of the jacket. For example, the lapels are short (because of the 3 button), and maybe a touch wider than average, with a round corner. The angle of the notch is also a bit downward facing. But this is in a bit of conflict with the high hip pockets, high second button, and the high breast pocket. These elements, at least for me, call out for a longer lapel (2 button) that is slightly narrower, slightly less rounded, and less angled downward (check out the Isaia suits at Sierra Trading Post for an example). What I think is going on here is that you have a lot of elements elongating the jacket from the bottom up to the middle button, and the less elongating lapel causes a bit of visual compression. Make sense?

    (2) I would not get hacking pockets if I were you. I agree that hacking pockets might now be right on this suit due to the fabric (this is just a matter of taste IMO though). But, more precisely, I think hacking pockets don't flatter your body. You have very good posture if the side shot is an indication. You can see that the back of the jacket appears a bit longer than the front from this side shot -- again, as a result of your posture. The hacking pockets in combination with this make it look as though the jacket is sliding backwards on you. I think you'd be better off going with straight pockets next time.

    (3) I might get the pants a bit shorter and a bit full next time. You look tall and lanky. A bit more fullness in the lower leg would probably give you a bit more bulk.

    (4) The jacket is a touch long perhaps? But the sleeves are a bit short. A bit of a disconnect here.

    So, though are my "negative" comments. Overall, it is a great suit that fits really, really well. This is especially true across the back. Congratulations. Where is it from, if we may ask?
     
  17. brooklyn

    brooklyn Well-Known Member

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    I agree that the sleeves are a bit short and the pants are to long, but I dont think the jacket is to long? How can you tell. I though that if you cup your hands the bottom of the jacket should meet your palms?

    I like the hacking pockets with the ticket pocket, maybe because I have the same thing on my suit.
     
  18. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    I'm talking maybe 1/4". It's hard to tell with just a few pics -- angles can be decieving.
     
  19. Nonk

    Nonk Well-Known Member

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    Oct 22, 2004
    I like it, I like the colour, design and the fabric.

    Same as most I think the sleeves are a nats too short, and the trousers (pants. he he) are too long.

    Enjoy your suit, it is nice.
     
  20. Bergdorf Goodwill

    Bergdorf Goodwill Well-Known Member

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    Dec 7, 2004
    You look good.

    It's imperfect, but...so's everything.

    Should definitely be exceptional for workhorse wear.

    I agree with johnnynorman that the suit makes you look "tall," although I'm not really seeing "lanky." Really, I think that's a very flattering thing. Who needs bulk?
     

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