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Pics of a d beaman garment

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by shoefan, Sep 17, 2004.

  1. shoefan

    shoefan Well-Known Member

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    Okay, so lots has been written about Darren's clothes. Â Here are some pics of my recently received sport coat, made in a Scabal Wool/Cashmere charcoal brown/rust glen plaid with a blue overplaid. Â While there are a few things I may need to have Darren attend to, I think the jacket fits well and is quite comfortable. Â FWIW, the fabric looks better in person than it does in the pics; the same could be said for the jacket itself. Â As Dr. Bresch has written, it's hard to take a good pic of clothes -- particularly with a self-timer. Let the comments begin. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. imageWIS

    imageWIS Well-Known Member

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    Is it me (for lack of the proper term "I") or are the lapels sticking into the air way too much? Perhaps it's the angle of the shot, but the lapels do not appear to rest on the jacket, but rather seem to stick up in the air instead of gently rolling against the chest of the jacket.

    That being said I do like the overall shape and the vent seems to be perfectly shaped for your body.

    Jon.
     
  3. regularjoe

    regularjoe Well-Known Member

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    Looks great.

    From the sideshots, the lapels seem fine to me.
     
  4. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Well-Known Member

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    look very smart. perfect for fall/winter.
     
  5. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    sage
    NICE .. I agree with ImageWIS that from the front the lapels are not rolling correctly, though from the side they are. Something to point out to Darren.
     
  6. montecristo#4

    montecristo#4 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for posting the pictures. People who post pictures I think do us all a service (although I'd be curious how Darren feels about it. ).

    - I agree on the lapel comment, although the shadow in the front view may just be dramatized by the light and the low photo angle.

    - Nice fabric selection, although I suspect it's difficult to get the colors really spot on in a photo.

    - I like the profile. Very English look. I like the way the shoulders look from the back. I have relatively wide shoulders and a thin torso, and I'm curious as to how Darren is going to handle it for me. With other tailors, the result often seems to be too much extra room in the chest.

    - Tell us about those shoes.

    Regards,
    Montecristo
     
  7. shoefan

    shoefan Well-Known Member

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    Query re: the lapel comments. Are your observations relating to the roll of the lapel just above the buttons, or up by the gorge?

    FWIW, the jacket is a 3-show-2 design, and the roll of the lapel goes through the button hole of the top button. As a consequence of its newness, this button hole is rather stiff from the tightness of the stitching and the gimping in the thread. I expect this will soften up over time, allowing the lapel's roll to be tighter to my torso. Nevertheless, I actually like a fairly prominent roll of my lapels; that's one feature of some Oxxford garments that I think is noteworthy.

    If the comments relate to the gorge area, I think it's the lighting. The lapels actually sit pretty close to my chest in this area, though again I expect them to conform more closely to my body with wear.

    The shoes are a pair of E. Green shoes that my wife bought last year at the Green shop in London; they were a sample pair that Tony Gaziano designed that did not make it into production. I don't know if they were on a standard Green last or a new last. The shoes feature a hand-sewn toe seam but a machine-sewn apron, a 3 eyelet closure, and a double sole. Unlike the Dover, they do not have a visible counter at the rear, which renders them a bit more dressy. I think the color is Burnt Pine.
     
  8. naturlaut

    naturlaut Well-Known Member

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    It's so frustrating as I cannot see the pictures showing. Is it just me or does anyone else have the same problem?
     
  9. kabert

    kabert Well-Known Member

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    Same deal here -- the pics aren't opening, even after a long wait (and I've got a very fast connection). Oh well, I'll survive I think.
     
  10. Nick M

    Nick M Well-Known Member

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    Are you outside of the US right now? Imageshack, on occasion, blocks certain countries from viewing images - people in those countries have tended to abuse the system and use up massive amounts of their bandwidth. I've provided copies of the photos here, here, here, and here. Let me know if they work...
     
  11. shoefan

    shoefan Well-Known Member

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  12. shoefan

    shoefan Well-Known Member

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    I think perhaps ImageShack has blocked these pics due to the number of people viewing them.  This sucks up large amounts of bandwidth, so they may not like it.

    Try Nick's links above.
     
  13. naturlaut

    naturlaut Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the links, dear friends. Yes, I am in Hong Kong right now, and Imageshack doesn't seem to be working here (and I had to sign up for picture hosting services in order to get my eBay auctions running&#33[​IMG]. The suit looks very nice. I like how the sleeves fit you. I, however, have arms that are pitched backward a little, making the sleeves having to fight with my arms and thus always show a bit of pulling. It seems that most people have arms pitched forward like you do, thus most RTW makers have sleeves pitched forward. Tell me: did Darren do anything specific about the arms? Any kind of measurements regarding how your arms are pitched (your arms seem to bend forward even at your natural stance)? I must say, up till now, I still haven't had a 100% perfect sleeves/arms like yours (mine are good, but not perfect like yours). Also, the jacket skirt is cut with minimal curve (in another word, a closed front) --- very English indeed. Italians tend to have the front a bit opened (just a bit more) on suits, and much more opened in sportcoats. Was it your own specification or Darren's own cutting? I am just curious to see if these kind of design elements are indeed location-specific.
     
  14. shoefan

    shoefan Well-Known Member

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    Re: the sleeves. Darren did not do any specific measurement of the placement of my arms. Perhaps this is because they are relatively "average," or pehaps he just has a mental image of the customer that he uses in developing his patterns. I had a couple of bespoke suits made by Gieves & Hawkes about 10 years ago, and as I recall they took quite a few measurements of my arms (shoulder to elbow, perhaps placement/angle, and others?). This new garment does have a bit of a 'hollow" on the back of the upper right sleeve; I don't know whether this will loosen with wear or will need to be addressed.

    Re: the closed front: I did not have a specific discussion about this. I guess it is just Darren's preferred way of cutting.
     
  15. MPS

    MPS Well-Known Member

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    Shoefan,

    Those photos come out a little too dark on my monitor, but the silhouette looks good. A minor point - could you include a photo of you without a jacket on (i.e. in shirt sleeves)? This would give us an idea of what Darren Beaman has had to "work with".
     
  16. Darren Beaman

    Darren Beaman Well-Known Member

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    Dear Member ,


    Thanks for all your comments a this garment, just a note to say I always think if you are going to post a picture of a garment it should be taken by someone who is very good at this, saying that it looks a very nice jacket.


    Someone ask about the arm hole and what I did to get them right during a fitting I would make how the person stands , where the arm hags and what needs doing to the garment as a whole.

    Say that I find most people do not stand up right (as in normal ) when a picture is taken.

    Overall this garment is fine looking garment , but I part of my work I always love to see my cloths once they have been home and had some were. My job is not just to make a garment but to keep it right as the person change shape over the years.

    It was nice to see a 3 roll 2 in such a nice cloths, well done for choosing it.
     
  17. Alias

    Alias Well-Known Member

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    It looks wonderful. I like how Darren manages to cut the back.
     
  18. brescd01

    brescd01 Well-Known Member

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    Shoefan, all I have to say is

    1) You have exquisite taste. The fabric of the coat is beautiful.

    2) The shoes are gorgeous also.

    And thank you VERY much for the pics, which I know took courage to post.
     
  19. anorak

    anorak Active Member

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    I love that jacket, looks very smart.
     
  20. prinseugen

    prinseugen Well-Known Member

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    There is stress at the base of the neck that must be resolved...and am I seeing the lining twist a bit under your sleeves? Overall, a very credible effort, and the thing looks as if it will last a lifetime. Thank you for posting your pictures in this manner, shoefan: you've done a service for the entire forum.

    Regards,

    Jack
     

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