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P coats

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by European Interloper, Oct 4, 2003.

  1. European Interloper

    European Interloper Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    London
    I haven't really been into the fashion world for a little while because I've been excessively busy and not as interested as usual.
    I see military trends on the catwalk, but none of what is there is attractive to me. Right now I have a penchant for a good P (or Pea) coat in navy or black (?)... Have any of you seen any that are devoid of any military insignias (which I find offensive as I am not technically in the army) that are good looking? Slim in the waist, preferably w/o gold buttons? high quality etc?
    And, of course... is it still fashionable?

    EI
     
  2. vero_group

    vero_group Well-Known Member

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    Here is an Ike Behar version of a peacoat on eBay...

    [edited out by the author]
     
  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Hi vero_group,

    While that is a fine coat, it is not in fact a peacoat. A Peacoat is doublebreasted with just two flap pockets at the hip level, and has a very distinctive coat collar, similar to the collar found in traditional trenchcoats. It is typically made of felt or boiled wool. The coat on the link, by contrast, is single-breasted and has a johnny collar. The four cargo pocket-design is more in the style of a safari coat, if it has any clear military references at all.

    Also, I'm not sure that we should make links to our own Ebay auctions. There was a pretty clear consensus a while ago that commercial posts on the forum should be kept to third party endorsements, and even then, to an absolute minimum. I think that this guarantees the integrity that has made this forum enjoyble to participate in. What do you think, Steve?
     
  4. MPS

    MPS Well-Known Member

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    You could try Schott.

    Pea coats aren't terribly "now".
     
  5. bigbadbuff

    bigbadbuff Well-Known Member

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    Pea coats are pretty much a classic, and thusly never truly 'out' IMO.

    I would love a nice wool coat, but don't care for almost every style out there right now.
     
  6. Steve B.

    Steve B. Well-Known Member

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    LAG:

    Good pont- I'm pondering the whole commercialism thing. It seems a number of members buy and sell clothes either on E-Bay or somewhere else. I myself have stretched limits recently, and God knows the Jantzen people have obliterated them.
    I do know this, if we have a commercial section, the advertising on it will not be free, and members will have a choice to visit it or not. I think it should be a separate section.

    What does everyone else think?
     
  7. AAA

    AAA Well-Known Member

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    My two cents:  As long as there is full disclosure, I don't mind people posting links to thier own auctions.   I just like to know when they are linking their own stuff.
     
  8. bryce330

    bryce330 Well-Known Member

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    I have no problem with sellers linking to their own auctions in response to a specific query. In fact, if I was looking for a specific item, I would be thrilled if someone had a link to what I was looking for on eBay and I would be disappointed if the seller did not post such a link because he was concerned with violating board etiquette.

    I don't think it would be appropriate for a seller to start new threads to advertise his or her wares, but I haven't seen that on the forum. As long as there is full disclosure and the item being sold is related to the subject matter of the thread, I have no problem with people linking to their own auctions.
     
  9. Knowledge Worker

    Knowledge Worker Member

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    Oct 15, 2003
    Finally an opportunity to repay what I have learned through extensive lurking on this forum.

    As an engineer, fashion is not my long suit; however as a former member of the U. S. Navy I am capable of commenting on military and non-military decorum.

    The pea coat so oft associated with the Navy was actually a fashion theft from the merchant marine who wore them years before the Navy allowed anything so practical. The Pea coat shall be decorated with only the rating (occupation) insigia on the shoulder, as well as "blood stripes" for years of service, both on the left sleeve.

    This allows the wearer to lean on things with his right shoulder. The anchor (fouled) on the typical black plastic button is not actually covered within uniform regulations and is therefore not a part of the sailor's "military bearing."

    Therefore a pea coat without any rank insignia or service stripes is not a part of any service uniform and can be worn by anyone without causing offense.

    Thank you for your consideration in this matter, the wearing of uniform items as fashion is tolerated with difficulty by military members, unless one is a member of the Swedish Bikini Team or similiar organization.
     
  10. NavyStyles

    NavyStyles Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    New Orleans, LA
    EI,

    You may have already made your purchase, but in case you didn't I suggest buying a black peacoat. I bought one about two years ago (when I started applying to the USNA) from a Naval outfitting store in Ohio; the only things on it that nod toward military representation are the anchors carved on the buttons. But they aren't very noticeable unless you're holding a conversation with someone, and - as KW said - they don't really signify ranking. If you can find a Naval outfitter, I recommend ordering one from there. I can try to find out the name of the place that had mine. Let me know if you're interested.


    KW,

    Thanks for the information about the history. I love interesting stories like that. I always thought the USN started the peacoat. One thing I've wondered is the origin of the name. Thought you might be able to help.
     
  11. Knowledge Worker

    Knowledge Worker Member

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    5
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    There seems to be pretty solid agreement, the first I've looked it up either. www.about.com PEACOAT--a cold weather version of the first uniform authorized-- the Pea-Jacket. A warm, heavy coat made from "Pee" cloth or "Pilot" cloth, a course stout kind of twilled blue cloth with a nap on one side. www.dictionary.com pea jacket n. A short, warm, double-breasted coat of heavy wool, worn especially by sailors. Also called pea coat. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [Probably partial translation of Dutch pijjekker : pij, a kind of coarse cloth (from Middle Dutch pe) + jekker, jacket.] http://docmeyer.freeservers.com/trivia.htm Pea Coat 1) Sailors who have to endure pea-soup weather often don their pea coats, but the coat's name isn't derived from the weather. The heavy topcoat worn in cold, miserable weather by seafaring men was once tailored from pilot cloth "” a heavy, course, stout kind of twilled blue cloth with the nap on one side. The cloth was sometimes called P-cloth for the initial letter of "pilot" and the garment made from it was called a p-jacket "” later, a pea coat. The term has been used since 1723 to denote coats made from that cloth. 2) The word peacoat (the usual form, though pea coat is also common) refers to a short double-breasted coat made of heavy, coarse wool, that was originally worn by sailors. The word is a classic example of a folk etymology. The original form was pea jacket, referring to the same garment. In both cases, the word pea does not represent our pea 'round green edible legume'. Rather it is ultimately from a Dutch or Frisian word that referred to a type of coarse cloth. A pea jacket was just a jacket made of pea. In English, pea, found in various spellings, is recorded as far back as the fifteenth century and in compounds in the fourteenth. Its ultimate history is obscure. It is unclear whether pea jacket is an English coinage based on pea and jacket, or if it is a borrowing of a Dutch or Frisian word such as pijekkat in the same sense. But the modern spelling with pea, and the general belief that it has something to do with the legume, is what gives it its folk etymological flavor. Pea jacket is first recorded in the early eighteenth century; peacoat in the late eighteenth.
     
  12. mr. magoo

    mr. magoo Well-Known Member

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    This season's Arena Homme has pea coats. It says designers with pea coats in their collections include John Varvatos, Costume National, and Gucci. It has a picture of the Gucci that has brass buttons.

    I'll probably still pull my genuine US Navy pea coat out this winter, purchased for $12 many moons ago when Urban Outfitters sold a lot of vintage stock.
     
  13. NavyStyles

    NavyStyles Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    New Orleans, LA
    KW, WOW. That was amazing. I appreciate the research you did; that was really nice of you. After the information about it being in the merchant marine, I thought you might just happen to know about the naming of it. But you went and looked all that up. Very informative reporting. Thanks again. [​IMG]
     
  14. General Koskov

    General Koskov Well-Known Member

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    Mar 24, 2004
    Location:
    Winnipeg
    It's also called a reefer jacket (furling the sails is 'reefing'), but the reefer is usually used as another name for the modern naval equivalent of the frock coat (i.e. 'monkey jacket'). The monkey jacket/reefer is of course based on the--thinner--blazer and is not really suitable for foul weather. Then again, oilskins are really the only foul weather gear, not melton cloth, which is only good for a dry cold.

    Personally I think navies ought to order a Barbour-type reefer jacket and trousers (i.e. made of oiled cotton or silk).
     
  15. tedbearz

    tedbearz Well-Known Member

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  16. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Well-Known Member

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    Here's Gloverall's British version of the pea coat, at a nice discount. It looks little different than the surplus version. http://<a href="http://www.sierratra......uct.htm</a> In keeping with the spirit of this thread, I have no association with Sierra Trading Post, and so have nothing to fear and less to gain.
     
  17. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Well-Known Member

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    RL usually has quality peacoats--both wool and cashmere ones. RLPL also does peacoats in alpaca blends. Also, there are leather peacoats by Prada, Marzotto Labs, etc. Old Navy does peacoats in wool blends.
     
  18. chorse123

    chorse123 Well-Known Member

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    I love pea coats, having had about 10 years of wear from a military surplus one bought in Chicago. I highly recommend getting the real thing, none of the &quot;designer&quot; versions. Surplus is the way to go.
     
  19. tedbearz

    tedbearz Well-Known Member

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    Bought this one a few years back and returned it. I would not consider this a pea coat. The material was so thin and cheap feeling. Better off going with something like Schott at this price point.
     

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