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Oxxford MTM

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Panzeraxe, Jun 8, 2005.

  1. Will

    Will Well-Known Member

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    San Francisco
    Johnnynorman's suggestion is exactly how MTM is measured. They start with a standard sized jacket and make adjustments to it.

    If you're comparing MTM to Kiton or Oxxford RTW, the differences are principally that you have more control over what you get with MTM. Compared to run of the mill RTW, MTM is infinitely superior.

    I ascribe the number of bad experiences people are reporting with MTM to the general lack of skill outside of a few establishments like Brooks Brothers on 42nd Street. People who know nothing about suits themselves are not going to do a great job of selling you a MTM suit. I gave it up after 40 years, but I'm lucky enough to get to London with reasonable frequency.
     
  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    It certainly is how the MTM pattern is done, but I don't think it's how the "measurer" actually operates. They take the measurements, write them down, and then the person making the pattern lops off the "appropriate" amount. The problem is that the measurer can easily screw up. Why should I even need my chest or shoulders measured when I know precisely how much extra/less I need as compared to the RTW model? If I know that the 39R in the Gibbons fits me perfectly in the chest, why does the measurer have to nonetheless take a tape measure to my chest, introducing the potential for screwing up? If I know that the 40R shoulder width fits me perfectly (which is .25" larger than the 39R), why do they nonehtless measure the shoulder width, a measurement rife with error potential? Why not just ASK ME what my ideal shoulder measurement is? BECAUSE THEY ASSUME THE CUSTOMER DOESN'T KNOW HIS OWN MEASUREMENTS.. This needs to change for MTM to be a better experience.
     
  3. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Well-Known Member

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    But with a little prodding, surely they would listen to you, since you are the customer and are shelling out $2.5k+ for their product.

    I imagine the Oxxford store on 57th street is used to dealing with forceful, demanding customers, no?
     
  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    That is probably true, but sort of underscores that this isn't the default method. If I walked into the Oxxford store and said, "I'd like a MTM, please," this is the response I'd want the default exchange to be:

    "Have you worn or tried on Oxxford RTW before?"
    "Yes. I like the Gibbons model."
    "Do you know what areas of the RTW model you think need altering in your MTM pattern?"
    "[I'd then list them.]"
    "Very good. Let's just confirm those. Slip on this 39R Gibbons and 40R Gibbons and we'll make sure those adjustments will work."

    Instead, I imagine the default exchange is:

    "Okay, our tailor will measure you up in a few minutes. Take a seat on this beautiful club chair."
     
  5. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Well-Known Member

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    I guess I was trying to say that the Oxxford store, of all tailored clothing stores, would presumably be willing to modify their "default" exchange when dealing with a customer as knowledgeable as you, JN3.
     
  6. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure Oxxford would, PB. The problem is that there are many men that know their measurements well enough that the MTM would be more successful using my exchange, but a certain percentage of those men are probably not assertive enough to bark orders at the measurer.
     

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