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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Well-Known Member

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    It would be tough to call it costumey if your friend actually hunts
     
  2. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    Well it's not like anyone knows he hunts when they just see him in the city.

    Brands like Ralph Lauren put shooting patches on their ready-to-wear garments all the time. I doubt many of their customers are hunters.

    TBH, when I think of "costumey," I think of people trying to stay historically accurate to AA illustrations. I don't think of things like shooting patches, which have been used in ready-to-wear design for decades. Not that AA illustrations can't also be great on their own, but a rigid adherence to authenticity produces its own "costumey" connotations in 2016.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2016
  3. DavidLane

    DavidLane Well-Known Member

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    Quoted the wrong response. To answer if microfiber can be dry cleaned...No idea...I can ask my dry cleaners next time I am there.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2016
  4. gs77

    gs77 Well-Known Member

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    Toronto, Ontario
    

    Let's be honest, there are far better hunting clothes options today then tweed shooting jacket. If I see a man wearing shooting jacket like that one, I do not think of him as a hunter, but as someone who likes that kind of English country style. I don't like it, but living in a city with lot of "Anglo" influence I see it from time to time (last time during opera performance, no less, and not being worn by anyone on stage).

    Is it costumey? Not any more then me wearing an M 65 jacket.
     
  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't wear one either, but just because it doesn't suit me. The M-65 is a good comparison, I think. Double riders, cafe racers, bomber jackets, and hundreds of other (formerly) utilitarian pieces of clothing are essentially now just fashion pieces.

    FWIW, I do think Andy's jacket looks better without a gun patch though. And it looks good on him (at least at this stage).
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2016
  6. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    San Jose, California
    I am not planning to shoot in it. When I shoot, I shoot trap. I'm not going to wear a $3000+ jacket and risk getting cartridge residue on it when I eject spent shells. I'm not crazy, at least along that axis.

    I have a jacket already with a bi-swing back and I'd recommend that for ease of movement, even without true experience with a center pleat. When I extend my arms with the bi-swing jacket, the sleeves don't ride up and there's no feel of the jacket pulling. It's ideal.

    My idea for the shoulder patch or padding was because I'm left handed and almost all jackets that have shooting pads have them on the right shoulder, which is useless for me. But bespoke gives me the freedom to have my jacket made any way I choose. So I thought I'd do that. The guys at Steed expressed their subtle skepticism and I agreed with them. Too much fussy detail.

    An even better comparison is a safari jacket. Fewer than 1% of all safari jackets ever make it within a thousand miles of a safari. And the jacket will look good on me when it's finished, too [​IMG]

    For certain things I get made I want it to look "usual", like a grey flannel suit, say, or a navy PoW. For other things I want to be creative, try unusual stuff, stuff that you can't obtain any other way, like bellows pockets and a rear center pleat.
     
  7. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful jacket, Andy. If it were mine, I'd make it 3r2. Maybe even four, with the ability to flip the collar up and button up to the neck. Very helpful in SF w/ gusts from the ocean.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2016
  8. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    I thought about it, but I don't want to do that. I prefer two- or one-button configurations.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. P-K-L

    P-K-L Well-Known Member

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    Upcoming bespoke projects...

    DB minnis chalkstripe flannel suit

    [​IMG]

    DB minnis green flannel suit

    [​IMG]

    Dormeuil sb sc

    [​IMG]

    A Harrison sc, not sure yet whether i want it SB or DB

    [​IMG]

    Plus a proper navy blazer with gold buttons, no pics yet

    All will be made by Don Raffaele Iorio, Naples
     
    11 people like this.
  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    I didn't realise StyleForum was near the sea.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    Styleforum is everywhere.
     
    2 people like this.
  12. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    When I started here, the "SF" references would always confuse me.
     
  13. DavidLane

    DavidLane Well-Known Member

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    @Andy57 I hear you on that. Thank you for the advice, I did not consider the coat riding up my arms. I typically shoot sporting clays and my concern isn't so much the shells when they eject, but carrying my gun on my shoulder. The break point leaves a bunch of nasty bits on top on my right shoulder from station to station, and on my right sleeve when I carry it over my arm.

    I do have the same belief as you, it would be very tough not to give a sh*t about staining a custom coat at that price. But at the same time once you had it properly "patinated" that pint of Guinness at the pub afterwards would not be so threatening.

    DL-
     
  14. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    Mom's basement
    "SF users wear their pants too short."
    "The SF community is overrun with yuppies."
    "SF has too many monocle-wearing hipsters, they don't understand true quality."
    "Recently I've come to realize that SF is the snob capital of the world."
    "SF people have way too much facial hair."
    "Is everyone from SF gay?"
     
  15. bienluienapris

    bienluienapris Well-Known Member

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    Geneva, Switzerland
    Sample from Minnis for potential project. Now I have to choose....

    At the beginning I was thinking to do a brown double breasted, a bit like the one of the famous picture of Yukio Akamine, but now, I have to say that the blue with brown stripe is amazing and the blue with dark stripe is pretty beautiful also.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    English Flower Garden
    Received this today (New EG Cappelli ties arrived too)

    [​IMG]
     
    8 people like this.
  17. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    San Jose, California
    Ooo, the NMWA Minnis 656 flannel, eh? Edwin told me that my length had been delivered to Carlisle on Monday. I think that will be my next project. I'm thinking a two-piece. Edwin said it was screaming three-piece to him. But I don't think I bought enough for a waistcoat, too. Besides, I have enough waistcoats for a while. Since I don't actually have the cloth, how does it feel to you?
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps. But no amount of Guinness will come anywhere my jacket, ever. [​IMG]
     
  19. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    It is everything you you can imagine. How much did you get? Perhaps Steed can get some more? I will be asking just that..

    I was in Scotland over the weekend and passed through Carlilse on the way home yesterday...
     
  20. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    May 30, 2009
    

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.

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