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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Well-Known Member

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    New York
    

    Did you get it on Yoox?
     
  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    Maybe @Punt is just a built guy.

    Soft, "natural" shoulder expression is greatly favoured by SF but the more padded, roped shoulder is also a valid option.

    Punt's jacket appears to fit him well.
     
  3. bry2000

    bry2000 Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. Looks good on Punt.
     
  4. Punt

    Punt Well-Known Member

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    Nov 12, 2012
    It is just a prova shoulder, the final product will come with a soft shoulder, which he normally uses for sports jackets.
     
  5. The Chai

    The Chai Active Member

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    34
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    Oct 7, 2015
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    New single breasted peak lapel one button suit in midnight blue barathea.
     
    4 people like this.
  6. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    Real Holes? (written on the fabric and the note sheet)
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
  7. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    As opposed to fake.....kidding, I have no idea.
     
  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    I thought it meant working button holes, but its written around your pocket/front dart area
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    I think that says "real 'hole."

    Could be a nickname to help identify customers.


    (jk)
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
    3 people like this.
  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    ^ you could be right. Now I'm curious....just sent Matthew a message.
     
  11. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    It's for functioning sleeve cuffs. Matthew said they started noting it in that spot years ago and keep doing it out of habit.
     
  12. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Is this the standard length for most italian jackets or by request?
     
  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    Ah interesting, thanks! I really liked the instagram mini videos he made a few weeks back where he showed how they do the 'rock of eye'/freehand drawings
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
  14. bienluienapris

    bienluienapris Well-Known Member

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    It's the standard lenght, a bit shorter than english, but a decent lenght, the angle of the pictures make it look pretty short here.
     
  15. Sander

    Sander Well-Known Member

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    There is no "standard length for most italian jackets". You're probably aware of this, but this really cannot be stressed enough.
     
    2 people like this.
  16. bienluienapris

    bienluienapris Well-Known Member

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    I go to Napoli this week, I'll take better pictures after that.
     
  17. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Well-Known Member

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    +1
    The length really depends on tailor's style. Some tailors tend to cut long jacket, some of them short. For me the length of the jacket above by Ciardi is too short. This jacket should be around 1.5-2cm longer, this will make the jacket more balanced. Unfortunately majority of tailors in Naples don't care that much about the fit. Around 5-6 tailors that i tried in Naples only 1 fitted a good jacket. That's why i stopped to go Naples and headed to elsewhere (in south of Italy)
     
  18. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Did you ask to make them longer?
     
  19. taxgenius

    taxgenius Well-Known Member

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    Which is the one you liked?
     
  20. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Well-Known Member

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    Of course ! Length can be fixed easily during the 2nd or 3rd suit. First suit may be long/short, it's not a big issue. My comments with respect to tailors in Naples is general and is about overall fitting. The tailors in Naples don't care that much about perfect fit. You can see in this thread on some postings very good fitting back. You will rarely see a Napolitan tailor fitting that good the back of the suit and underarms. There are also examples where Napolitan tailors can't cut a straight shoulder but it's bumping somewhere. Napolitans say this is because they are cutting a soft jacket but this is nothing to do with that.
     

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